3rd Generation Specific (1993-2002) 1993-2002 Discussion including performance modifications and Technical Support Sections.
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rtv?

Old Nov 30, 2007 | 12:34 AM
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rtv?

I am looking into resealing my oil pan tomorrow, i was wondering if i did it with rtv, what is the recommended time i should wait before i add oil. I am kinda on a time crunch basis so what is the minimal time you think i should wait as well.
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Old Nov 30, 2007 | 04:19 AM
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One day....and I would use Hondabond or equivalent. Also it has to be exceptionally clean. Run a 6mm tap thru each bolt hole to remove any left over residue from a past sealing


later
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Old Nov 30, 2007 | 08:39 AM
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Ok, that is what i thought. I really only have just a few hours. What are the chances that it will leak with just a few hours of curing.
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Old Nov 30, 2007 | 08:43 AM
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Originally Posted by rx-sleven
Ok, that is what i thought. I really only have just a few hours. What are the chances that it will leak with just a few hours of curing.
If you only have a few hours, then I would recommend doing it another day.
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Old Nov 30, 2007 | 08:46 AM
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Ok. That is what i was thinking...

Well can you go to this.

https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/another-quick-question-708510/

And let me know what you think about that? I am almost for sure that it is the oil pan. And if so i am fine with driving like that. But if not i wont. I just really need to go out of town today to take a vehicle to my family.
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Old Nov 30, 2007 | 08:47 AM
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Originally Posted by rx-sleven
Ok, that is what i thought. I really only have just a few hours. What are the chances that it will leak with just a few hours of curing.
100% (especially if using standard RTV).

If you're gonna spend time doing it, you might as well do it right. Use hondabond or permatex's "the right stuff." Let it cure for at least a day.

-Rob
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Old Nov 30, 2007 | 09:04 AM
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Thanks man.. That is and has always been my modo so that is why i am asking. But, i think i will just drive it until i can do it over a few days and check the oil alot.

Still looking for other input here https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=708510
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Old Nov 30, 2007 | 09:26 AM
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Oil Pan Sealing Info...

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...easier+oil+pan

Permatex Ultra-Grey works well - that's what I used.
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Old Nov 30, 2007 | 09:37 AM
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Thanks man.
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Old Nov 30, 2007 | 10:34 AM
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i cleaned the bottom of the motor and the oil pain with a wire brush wheel & drill to remove just about everything off the surfaces. then i used A LOT of grey RTV to seal it up. i put oil in probably 30 minutes later.

i have -zero- oil leakage from my oil pan.
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Old Nov 30, 2007 | 10:47 AM
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Originally Posted by theorie
i cleaned the bottom of the motor and the oil pain with a wire brush wheel & drill to remove just about everything off the surfaces. then i used A LOT of grey RTV to seal it up. i put oil in probably 30 minutes later.

i have -zero- oil leakage from my oil pan.
A few words of caution:

1. RTV doesn't fully cure for up to 24 hours. just because you got away with using it immediately doesn't make it the proper procedure.
2. Using "A LOT" of RTV is not a good practice - it can wind up plugging oil inlet screens, etc., if the excess falls off.
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Old Nov 30, 2007 | 12:07 PM
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Originally Posted by DaveW
A few words of caution:

1. RTV doesn't fully cure for up to 24 hours. just because you got away with using it immediately doesn't make it the proper procedure.
2. Using "A LOT" of RTV is not a good practice - it can wind up plugging oil inlet screens, etc., if the excess falls off.
1. i didn't run the motor for atleast 48 hours after putting the oil pan back on.

2. when i say "a lot" i dont mean i gooped the stuff all over the place. i mean it took almost a whole tube just to make a nice line of RTV all around the oil pan.
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Old Nov 30, 2007 | 12:13 PM
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Originally Posted by theorie
1. i didn't run the motor for atleast 48 hours after putting the oil pan back on.

2. when i say "a lot" i dont mean i gooped the stuff all over the place. i mean it took almost a whole tube just to make a nice line of RTV all around the oil pan.
OK. Sorry. Didn't mean to offend, but the way you originally said it might have led a novice astray.
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Old Nov 30, 2007 | 01:52 PM
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Well by no means am i a novice... haha. Just rebuilt the engine and stuff like that. Just didnt know what the proper curing time on the rtv was. The one thing that i have yet to conquer on the 7 is a perfect oil pan job hahaha. Everything else i am good at.
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Old Nov 30, 2007 | 02:36 PM
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Hylomar is really good too, worth the price. Or is it best left for the coolant seals?
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Old Nov 30, 2007 | 03:54 PM
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Originally Posted by theorie
1. i didn't run the motor for atleast 48 hours after putting the oil pan back on.........
Then why put the oil in? Thats a bad procedure. I hope you don't wind up with a leak later on.
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Old Nov 30, 2007 | 03:55 PM
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Originally Posted by rx-sleven
Well by no means am i a novice... haha. Just rebuilt the engine and stuff like that. Just didnt know what the proper curing time on the rtv was. The one thing that i have yet to conquer on the 7 is a perfect oil pan job hahaha. Everything else i am good at.
My comments were not directed specifically at you, but also to others who might read this and think RTV could be used right away, etc. Just didn't want someone to get into trouble doing this.

Dave

Last edited by DaveW; Nov 30, 2007 at 04:12 PM.
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Old Nov 30, 2007 | 04:02 PM
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Originally Posted by sm0keyii
Hylomar is really good too, worth the price. Or is it best left for the coolant seals?
My experience with Hylomar is not good. IMO, It is best used for temporary seals. Every time I have tried to use (I followed the instructions to let the solvent evaporate before ***'y, etc.) it on my quick-change gearbox (Formula Continental racecar) when changing gears (one of the recommended uses), it started leaking within a week or so. I think synthetic gear oil might be incompatible with the Hylomar.

I know some people swear by it, but I've mostly sworn at it.

Last edited by DaveW; Nov 30, 2007 at 04:13 PM.
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Old Nov 30, 2007 | 09:05 PM
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Hondabond or "The right Stuff" is all you ever need to use on this FD oil pan. That sealer, mating surface prepared correctly, proper "dry" cure time and a followup Garfinkle oil pan brace will give you the best chance of avoiding a leak - period. Search all you like and you will come to this conclusion. This rotary engine being sanwiched together like that is prone to movement that eventually breaks a seal done otherwise.

5 oils pans done the same way - no leaks

Advise to take or just leave it
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Old Nov 30, 2007 | 11:55 PM
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Originally Posted by saxyman990
<SNIP>
If you're gonna spend time doing it, you might as well do it right. Use hondabond or permatex's "the right stuff." Let it cure for at least a day.

-Rob
+2 on "The Right Stuff".

Let it cure 24-hrs, before adding oil.

So far, 3-years of "The Right Stuff" and no leaks.

:-) neil
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