Rotary Works Throttle Body Leak
04-08-12, 08:57 PM
#80
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[QUOTE=Double_J;11047503]Any reason why you didn't match the shape perfectly? I think I saw one posted before that had the exact shape as the rotary works throttle body.[/QUOTE
i dont see how you could
i dont see how you could
04-09-12, 02:47 PM
#81
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Hmm. It was a long time ago since I saw the pictures so I think I slightly warped them in my head. Here are the threads I had thought of. Perhaps it is the light but it looks like the runners on the top might have less restrictions. Perhaps they were ported more or just the light/camera angle.
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...&highlight=Uim
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...ght=Uim&page=2
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...&highlight=Uim
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...ght=Uim&page=2
04-09-12, 09:17 PM
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Hmm. It was a long time ago since I saw the pictures so I think I slightly warped them in my head. Here are the threads I had thought of. Perhaps it is the light but it looks like the runners on the top might have less restrictions. Perhaps they were ported more or just the light/camera angle.
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...&highlight=Uim
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...ght=Uim&page=2
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...&highlight=Uim
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...ght=Uim&page=2
05-01-12, 02:04 PM
#86
took my Rotary Work throttle body apart, and the only thing that stops the air from leaking out is a small oring that's in the shaft, and there is a double sealed radial bearing, but those seals are to keep the bearing itself sealed.
shaft oring
bearing and retaining clip
Throttle cable side bearing and retaining clip
TPS side bearing removed for pic.
i have being searching online and found a seal with the same dimension as the bearing, the problem is that once you install the bearing there isn't any room to install the seal.
shaft oring
bearing and retaining clip
Throttle cable side bearing and retaining clip
TPS side bearing removed for pic.
i have being searching online and found a seal with the same dimension as the bearing, the problem is that once you install the bearing there isn't any room to install the seal.
06-19-12, 04:47 PM
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Bumping this back up. I got mine apart, and I am going to try something with rubber washers. Once I'm done I will take some pics.
On a side note when I installed this unit I had maade many upgrades (35r to aspec 500r) so it was impossible to quantify any difference. Now. That I have the throttle body off the car I put my stocker back in. I can not feel any difference in top end but my butt dyno feels a difference in response. The stock unit feels slower.
Take it for what that's worth - almost nothing because its a feeling not a number like a dyno.
On a side note when I installed this unit I had maade many upgrades (35r to aspec 500r) so it was impossible to quantify any difference. Now. That I have the throttle body off the car I put my stocker back in. I can not feel any difference in top end but my butt dyno feels a difference in response. The stock unit feels slower.
Take it for what that's worth - almost nothing because its a feeling not a number like a dyno.
06-21-12, 06:56 AM
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The tps side I added a rubber washer, and a aluminum washer so the tps arm can still swivel smoothly.
On the throttle cable side I added two rubber washers that will press in to the TB. These are basically acting the same as the O rings. If air some how managed to still sneak past I then added a nylon washer that presses up against the TB with again a metal washer that things will pivot against.
I know it is better for a few reasons. The spool seems quicker than the stock unit again - but dyno.
The car will start to lose traction, and chirp the tires through second gear. Something it wasn't doing before.
The car sounds quieter while in boost. I don't hear as much air like I did before.
I still have doubts that it is leaking because the stock unit was even quieter. I will try to do another leak test to confirm for sure but it deffinately is better.
On the throttle cable side I added two rubber washers that will press in to the TB. These are basically acting the same as the O rings. If air some how managed to still sneak past I then added a nylon washer that presses up against the TB with again a metal washer that things will pivot against.
I know it is better for a few reasons. The spool seems quicker than the stock unit again - but dyno.
The car will start to lose traction, and chirp the tires through second gear. Something it wasn't doing before.
The car sounds quieter while in boost. I don't hear as much air like I did before.
I still have doubts that it is leaking because the stock unit was even quieter. I will try to do another leak test to confirm for sure but it deffinately is better.
Last edited by Double_J; 06-21-12 at 07:10 AM.
07-12-12, 02:51 PM
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So I had a chance to do a boost leak test, and I am impressed. I found many leaks in the couplers, and even my BOV. My throttle body has a very small leak now. I only found it with soap and water compared to the loud hissing it previously made. Right now it is leaking on both sides of the tb (against the greddy elbow and uim). While the leak is minor I will be taking it back off to see if some gasket sealer will close it up 100%.
Despite 45 - 50 degree intake temps fixing all the other leaks has again has made a noticeable improvement in wheel spin, so I am happy with that
I tested the system up 20psi as that's eventually where I want to get retuned to. Regardless of what TB you have it is worth checking for leaks!
Despite 45 - 50 degree intake temps fixing all the other leaks has again has made a noticeable improvement in wheel spin, so I am happy with that
I tested the system up 20psi as that's eventually where I want to get retuned to. Regardless of what TB you have it is worth checking for leaks!