If you have an oil leak, this will solved it.

I installed mine by removing the subframe as I found this made it easiest to completely clean the surface and apply silicone as needed.

I used Dow Corning Mazda Engine Sealant from recommendation and it worked great. What I could recommend that would make the job easier. I used a 3/8 headed screwdriver to drive in the 10mm bolts initially, I found this made the job much much easier than trying to hand tighten them.

 

I'm gonna have to do this sometime as my pan is leaking as well.

 

Happy with mine. Machining was spot on, even the milled area to fit over the raised portion of the pan lip. For as little as they cost, I'd suggest making sure you have a new 'O' ring for the oil level sensor, since that has to be removed for the installation. Mine wasn't leaking, but it was pretty flattened and I wouldn't have wanted to re-use it. The brace should also be painted IMO. I used some left-over silver I had laying around in a rattle can.

 

Forgot to mention I painted mine with some left around High Temp Engine Paint Black naturally.

SGTBlue while your engine is out I suggest you machine your motor mount arms. I also have Noltecs and even with them machined my strutbar still won't fit, damn Noltecs.

 

I'd like to see this kit up against the Banzai brace kit; though probably not much of a difference. Anyone try the Banzai kit yet?

 

FWIW, the Garfinkle brace is machined so as to maintain the integrity of the raised ribbing on the pan flange. this allows the flat brace surface to mate w the flat pan flange surface. i have run mine for almost two seasons w "The Right Stuff" sealant and have had no leaks... which is a first

recommended along w Garf's Engine Torque Brace (ETB). you don't want to rip your engine mounts or crack your Power Plant Frame (PPF) right?

while on the subject, add Banzai's diff brace to Garf's ETB and you will not have any PPF problems.

hc

 

Your right....unfortunately the motor has been back in the car for a few months. https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/engine-height-raised-oil-pan-brace-755290/
I hadn't read that anyone else had done it and wasn't sure if I'd weaken the arms. So being the coward I am on such things....I left them alone. Mine hasn't been a huge deal. But I might pull the mounts this winter while the car is in storage and do it. In the above thread Dave indicated that I might have to drill the arm for clearance of the pan bolts too.
At any rate, this is no reflection on his (Garfinkle's) brace. Still a great piece.

 

Failed to mention one important upgrade component - the Moroso stud kit. Makes the install much easier and more importantly, no crossthreaded bolts to deal with.


http://www.moroso.com/catalog/catego...?catcode=23017

Later

 

This is why ours comes with the stud kit and nuts to replace the bolts, that have a tendency to either shear the heads off or strip the holes out. We also plate our brace so that you do not have to mess around with painting it.

I explain in great detail in this thread with pictures why we intentionally do not have a groove in our brace.

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...99#post7990299

 

I machined mine down and will be adding Garfinkles ETB if dammed USPS can ever find it in themselves to decide to deliver it to me.

So the motor mounts still control the vertical and the ETB the horizontal. Also the noltec are built with a pretty thick top so even taking it off the motor mount arm it is on the motor mount. Also Noltec say that the motor mounts are made to take twisiting motion, the reason for the tabs I beleive.

Edit:

Chris I am sure you guys make a great product and you guys are a great shop but this was strictly to talk about Garfinkles Brace I didn't want to turn this into a "My Brace is bigger than your Brace fight

I found that by putting the 10mm head onto an extension and then tapping it lightly with a hammer this loosened all the bolts sufficiently so that i could remove them all without any hesitation and more importantly without breaking anything.

 

Someone else brought our name and product into this thread......Just clearing up any confusion before it starts.

 

Personally I saw no reason for the ETB with the NOLTECS.
^Agreed. While I may not see a need for an ETB, I do plan on adding one of Chris' (Banzai's) diff braces.

 

The Garfinkle oil pan brace cames with all the bolts needed AND the O -ring for the oil level sensor . It even comes with an useless evil grove that clears the pinch rail on the Mazda pan to put pressure fullly across the gasket surface of the motor . If any one needs their money back because of the evil grove then fine .No one has complained as of today .

 

My 'O' ring was missing. I want my money back!

 

I also put mine in recently and couldn't be happier with Garfinkle's work.

I also installed it with the Moroso stud kit and I must say it is definitely worth it to do it while resealing the pan. I used Honda-Bond sealant. I'm not sure what I did with the O-ring that Garfinkle did provide and reused the old one, that's the only leak I have now.

To anyone doing this in the future, make sure you clean out the threads with a tap first! My oil pan was sealed before with a ton of sealant and you wouldn't believe how much sealant came out of the threads with the tap.

 

I have the oil pan brace but did not remove the subframe. Was it hard to do? I need to redo it again as it is leaking again. Did you have to use an engine hoist or did you just brace the tranny? After putting the subframe back up did you need to get the front end aligned?

Hey Jim,

Glad to see you went with the NOLTECs. I was able to get rid of my torque brace after using those motor mounts too!!

 

I was def. not loose the torque brace because of motor mounts however to answer your questions.

I undid the motor mounts 2*17mm nuts.
Jacked the joint of the transmission flat part with some wood under the flat part, until the bellhousing touches the tunnel.
I used an impact gun to do the rest, did not break any sockets.

It is really usefull to have a friend to help take the subframe down as it is not light.

Also another reason for me to take it off was because I POR'ed my subframe and oil pan while I was at it.

 

Sgtblue , do you need an O-ring sent to you or do you wont to send the brace back for your money back . If you need an O-ring PM me your address . If you wont to return all the parts put the address in the box .

 

I bought three of the Garfinkle oil pan braces for my FDs. Used the stud kit and the Right Stuff on all of them. Perfect Fit. Running 400 hp on single turbos, 20w-50 and NO LEAKS. Before the upgrade I had the classic drip at the rear edge on all three pans.


Later

 

David, I'm kidding!
I didn't even buy the brace directly from you, I bought it from another member...I think it was shortly after a group buy. For all I know, I missed it somehow in the box. It was no big deal. I had no trouble in finding an 'O' ring locally. There's a store near me that keeps a nice assortment of metric sized ones in stock. I think it cost all of about .25 cents.

 

I'm sold, and i should be moving soon so looking forward to giving your kit a shot. Thanks!

 

I am also installing an oil pan brace and noltec motor mounts on Monday. Currently my strut tower brace is sitting right on top of the greddy elbow, so I am sure that once the oil pan brace and noltec motor mounts are installed then the motor will sit too high for the strut tower brace.
I have sent my motor mount arms off to have 3/16 of an inch machined/removed from them for $80 (a little high but dont really have a choice around here). Plus if that doesnt do the job I was going to add a small spacer in between the strut tower top and the strut brace itself to help with the height issue as well.
My main question is with the machined motor mount arms. I see David (Garfinkle) doesnt have any issue with them over a long period of time with a 400hp motor. But I have about 502hp to the wheel and was wondering what others, that have posted on this thread, is running as far as power with the machined motor mount arms. So basically everyone that has removed 3/16 of an inch off of their motor mount arms please chime in letting me know what kinda HP you are making and if you have had any problems or if you see any real problems with this procedure.
Thanks for all the info