I am not getting any boost until 4500 RPM.

Ok, so I think I know what my problem is...I think. The test for the charge control actuator is to idle the engine and see if the rod is pulled in...it is at idle. Then it says to shut the engine off and pop the hose off from chamber A and the rod will pull off. Well, as soon as I shut the engine off, the rod pulls itself out, no need to pop off any hoses. Am I close?

 

Yes, I believe you are close. The charge control isolates the primary turbo from the secondary turbo during the first half of the boost run:

http://www.autosportracetech.com/RX-...erOverview.htm

If its not working, it will allow the primary to join the secondary during the first half of the boost run. The problem is that the secondary is being vented through the CRV during this time so you won't build any boost until the CRV closes (which is at the transition point).

 

I suggest that you buy/borrow a mityvac (Silverline Plus kit, if you're buying) and start testing stuff.

First, test for stored vacuum. Shut the car off and wait five minutes. Then using a long tool of some kind, remove the hose from the vacuum chamber (look between the PS pump and alternator). It should hiss to indicate vacuum.

Test the actuator to see if it leaks from one nipple to the other. Discard if it leaks.

Follow the hose from the actuator into the rats nest and be sure every segment does not leak. It will lead to the charge control solenoid.

If you haven't found the problem yet, it's finally time to dig into the rats nest and test the solenoids. Or just replace them.

Dave

 

Yes, I can hear the boost being vented. I have no boost until 4500 RPM. I checked the hose that goe sinto chamber A, and it is not attached to the vacum chamber, it is attached to nipple in the LIM. However, the car is hot and I cannot touch much or else I will burn my hand. I am letting it cool down to take a closer look.

I have taken a closer look and I have found the vaccum chamber and a hose that comes ot of it on top. So if I disconnect this hose, a hiss should be present. What happens if its not? The one way valve is screwed?

 

Crap. As soon as I start yanking out the hose from the vacum chamber it starts to crack. So I will buy a new one and replace that one, but no yanking for now.

 

Mahjik...do you have a pic of a one way check valve? Just ot make sure.

 

Not handy I don't. The valves aren't hard to find. Just look at the vacuum diagram and you'll see where they should be.

 

From the literature, it says that there is a check valve between the only hose comming from the vaccum chamber and the rat's nest. There is none, only an old plastic line that is about to crack. Should I put one there? There are some things attached to other lines nearby, they look bulgy and have a green center. They attach from one side to a vaccum line and the other side the same thing.

 

There is no check valve between the rats nest and the pressure chamber. There is one between the pressure chamber and the y-pipe.

When you say "vacuum chamber", are you talking about the chamber between the UIM and the alternator? If so, that is called the Pressure Chamber. The "Vacuum Chamber" is located below and to the right of the alternator:

http://www.fd3s.net/vacuum_hose_replacement.html

Just want to make sure we are talking about the same thing.

 

The green/black bulgy things are the check valves.

Not sure what literature you're referrring to, but if your stuff isn't set up exactly per the vacuum diagram that could explain a lot.

You'll have to be extremely careful if your hoses are hardened because it's super easy to break nipples. You might be due for the 'hose job'.

If your vacuum chamber isn't holding vacuum, there is either a leaky hose or a bad check valve.

Dave

 

I can see the preassure chamber, easy. There are two hoses comming out of it. The vaccum chamber has one hose that goes to the rats nest. I was reading and I thought there was a one way check valve for the Vaccum chamber.

"Note, that the vacuum supply is from the Vacuum Chamber, thus leakage of the one-way check valve for the Vacuum Chamber will result in Primary boost applied on both sides of the actuator resulting in this valve opening when it should not, dumping Primary boost through the Charge Relief..."

This is from the link above, which I also refer to as literature..LOL.

EDIT: How do I test a check valve? The line for the vaccum chamber seems crunchy but ok, still going to replace it this weekend or sooner.

 

The check valve they are referring to is not "directly" off the Vacuum Chamber. Its part of the lines which feed off the vacuum chamber through the rats nest. You will have to look at the vacuum diagram and trace it back. It connects to the bottom right on the front of the UIM.

 

Ok, I got the check valve localized an dits plainly visible. How do I test it?

 

The quick test is to see if you can blow through it both directions with your mouth. If it passes that test, you should really test it with a Mitivac. If it fails the mouth test, there is no need for the Mitivac.

 

I changed the valve, the actuator rod sticks out right after I shut down. It is supposed to stick out, no?

I will test drive it, see what happens.

 

BTW, the old valve, if I blew on it, it let some air through, bu not as easy as the new valve.

 

No luck, it wasn't that valve

I guess I'll just take it to the rotary local and go non seq already.

 

Connect a clean hose to one of the actuator nipples. Using mouth pressure or a vacuum pump, see if you can push or draw air thru it. It should not have any internal leaks.

This is an easy test and it's not hard or expensive to replace the actuator if it's leaking.

Dave

 

Did not do that, excellent idea. Thanks!!