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Replacement engine rear housing different

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Old Oct 1, 2010 | 11:17 PM
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Replacement engine rear housing different

I bought a rebuilt engine and in switching parts from my original i found the that the coolant connection and the hole size is small for the sensor.... I was told the block was the same year ... any clue whats up?

Ill get pics ... got to figure out how to put them up

Replacement engine rear housing different-photo.jpg
This Is the original Engine ... the sensor hole on the left is the one to small on the new block

Replacement engine rear housing different-photo1.jpg
This is the new block...coolant fitting is different which is not a big deal, but I have to figure out the sensor hole

Last edited by UpOnOne929RR; Oct 1, 2010 at 11:29 PM. Reason: Add pics
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Old Oct 2, 2010 | 01:02 AM
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oil pressure sensor i think,
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Old Oct 2, 2010 | 01:52 AM
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yep oil pressure sensor
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Old Oct 2, 2010 | 09:14 AM
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The rear iron in your new engine is from a 2nd gen RX-7. I can tell from the different nipple for the heater hose. Either that or a Cosmo block.

Does it have the holes in the bottom of the iron for the engine mounts? If not, you're in bad shape.

Dale
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Old Oct 2, 2010 | 10:09 AM
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Not from a Cosmo, they are all automatics, completely different rear iron that would be missing the bolt hole below the heater hose nipple.

It is not an FD rear iron, that is obvious from the heater hose connection, looks like an FC
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Old Oct 2, 2010 | 01:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Banzai-Racing
Not from a Cosmo, they are all automatics, completely different rear iron that would be missing the bolt hole below the heater hose nipple.

It is not an FD rear iron, that is obvious from the heater hose connection, looks like an FC
So will this work for my FD or am i screwed... and can i use and fc sensor or make and adapter for the fd sensor...

PS just got my Banzai block off plates today, look nice
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Old Oct 2, 2010 | 01:44 PM
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You need to look at the rear dowel landing below the oil filter pedistal and see if it is renforced. It will be the difference between S4 and S5. Post more pictures of the block so we can tell you what you have. Hopefully its just 1 mismatched iron. I have a FD rear plate and S4 T2 rear plate I can compare for you but I do not have a S5 to compare right now.

You will probably run into problems w/ the LIM matching the rear plate bolt holes.
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Old Oct 2, 2010 | 02:04 PM
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You can not install an FC engine in an FD without a lot of non-worthwhile extra work.

That would be one hack job engine build if it was a mismatched rear plate, it is just about impossible to get them confused, the intake runners are not even the same height on the block.

Here is the FC vs FD intermediates just for example:


Last edited by Banzai-Racing; Oct 2, 2010 at 02:07 PM.
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Old Oct 2, 2010 | 11:33 PM
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There is a "G" cast into the housing ....
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Old Oct 2, 2010 | 11:45 PM
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The Rear Housing has a "G" cast into it ...It would be behind the flywheel...
Replacement engine rear housing different-rear-housing-mark.jpg

Ill take more pics tomorrow

Last edited by UpOnOne929RR; Oct 2, 2010 at 11:50 PM. Reason: add more info
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Old Oct 3, 2010 | 12:30 AM
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Looks to me like someone sold you an FC engine. More pictures would help. Check the bottom of the rear plate for 6 large bolt holes (these would be for your FD motor mounts).
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Old Oct 3, 2010 | 08:54 PM
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Def the wrong rear housing...Intermetiate housing looks right... now to see if the rotor housings are right ... and can I then just swap the rear housing...
Replacement engine rear housing different-engine1.jpg Replacement engine rear housing different-engine2.jpg
Replacement engine rear housing different-engine3.jpg Replacement engine rear housing different-engine4.jpg

No motor mount bolts def not an FD Housing

Was pissed when I got to the lot bottom and didnt take a pic.
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Old Oct 3, 2010 | 08:58 PM
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wow, this is a first.
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Old Oct 3, 2010 | 09:28 PM
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I bet ... The guy told me Mazdatrix Rebuilt it ... I def got screwed ... Now I have to find out if its really rebuild
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Old Oct 3, 2010 | 10:04 PM
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Best of luck to you when you crack that thing, hopefully it was just a mistake on his part.
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Old Oct 4, 2010 | 05:01 AM
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Front and rear irons are from a S4 TII, intermediate is an FD. There isn't anyone that can install that engine the way it is built. Go get your money back.
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Old Oct 4, 2010 | 05:50 AM
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I lol at whoever put that together. I feel sorry for the person that bought it though.

thewird
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Old Oct 4, 2010 | 08:53 AM
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Wow, just looking at the pic with the intake ports - the middle FD ones are up high, the side FC ones are down low.

"Yeah, you just gotta make a custom intake manifold. And motor mounts. And front cover. No prob."

Really sorry to see that man. Hopefully if you can't get your money back it's got some good parts inside, like good rotors, seals, rotor housings.

Sorry to bear bad news, but it's better to know now than later.

Dale
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Old Oct 4, 2010 | 04:54 PM
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I bought it last year ... I'm screwed ... I been down for a year with A.L.L. just strating to be able to get into it again... Ill prob just sway the housing of of the motor that is coming out and hope for the best... Ill get the name shop off the down payment through paypal maybe... I just want this thing running again....
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Old Oct 4, 2010 | 06:04 PM
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what kind of idiot would toss that thing together and not notice that they are using the incorrect irons? the intake runners on the irons should all be the same height if using the same series irons. looking at that motor you would know something was off if you built more than one rotary engine... what kind of dipshit was this building engines?

at least they got the rotor housings and center iron correct. who knows what kind of rotors it has.

there's no way that's a mazdatrix motor. S4 TII front and rear iron, FD rotor housings/center iron. i'd guess the rotors are correct but it doesn't matter because the whole thing has to be stripped back down completely again.
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Old Oct 4, 2010 | 06:40 PM
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Budget build?

thewird
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Old Oct 4, 2010 | 08:47 PM
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Damn who did you buy that from? The seller obviously knew it wasn't put together correctly since there is no oil pan that would fit this properly. Since you not going to get a refund, now is a great time to start familiarizing yourself with the internals of these engines. Considering the buchery with this build, there is no way I would trust the internal specs. It's not hard to pull it apart and swap in the Fd front and rear plates. You can buy them used for about $150.00. Good luck!
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Old Oct 4, 2010 | 09:08 PM
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I dont know who built it ... Guy was real good about telling me what was left to do... gave me acouple turbos, acouple fuel pumps, and most of the dressing for the engine.... Prob to draw my attention away from the ports ... I didnt educate myself enough before I bought it... Guess I am the retard in this deal... he got his money... I am gonna pull it apart and see what it looks like and use my old housings... Thanks for all the info... Maybe Ill just get a single turbo this winter and put it back together in the spring...
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Old Oct 5, 2010 | 05:05 AM
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Originally Posted by UpOnOne929RR
I dont know who built it ... Guy was real good about telling me what was left to do... gave me acouple turbos, acouple fuel pumps, and most of the dressing for the engine.... Prob to draw my attention away from the ports ... I didnt educate myself enough before I bought it... Guess I am the retard in this deal... he got his money... I am gonna pull it apart and see what it looks like and use my old housings... Thanks for all the info... Maybe Ill just get a single turbo this winter and put it back together in the spring...
Don't assume the rotors (or anything else) is correct for the FD turbo. Rotors could be high compression from an FC or not the correct weight match. Based upon what you got there I would be skeptical of everything. Recommend spending several days (weeks / months) going through the service manuals and this site's resources. All the info you need is available...
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