Removing Rear Quarter Panel??
Removing Rear Quarter Panel??
I have to remove the rear quarter panel on my 3rd gen, and i cant figue out how to do it!! I can trash the rest of the car to any expent so it dosent matter. How in the hell do you remove that Quarter Panel. TIA
Marc
Marc
ya i would like to know to, my fd was hit on the passager side rite be4 tail light(thank god), i talked to some pple and they said u must likely have to cut it out, about half way up towards the roof (in between the door and hatch)and then where they connect under the door(its about half way under the door). thats wut i heard, i would like to hear wut other pple have to say, thanx
geoff
geoff
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ok.. the rear quater pannel is a bitch to get to and remove.
i just recently been hit back there. and omg. what a pain in the ***..
first off that 1/4 pannel is about 450 bucks from dealer ship. ( Bird road mazda . in miami ., FL) its in black.
second off... to get to the 1/4 pannel.. you need to remove tail lights and center lights. and bumper.. right when you take the bumper off.. you will see where its weilded.. pop the spot weilds off it.. then.. you need to cut.. on the door ( not the door door.. but i mean.. in that location.. above the door and under the door.) .. middle top.. and middle bottm you need to cut that totaly out the stock 1/4 pannel covers all the way that high... and from what i saw.. when you open the door. it covers part of that as well...
how do i know.. like i said someone hit me pretty bad.. ( and im REALLY surprised how much dmg that 1/4pannel took.. and held up. ) fukin strong. and i was worried about a body shop doing a shitty *** job with it.. so i took it to the dealer. i know thats a giant no no.. but.. no one does better body work then a dealer.
so... i watched the body shop guys do their job..
pretty shocked about how they did it.. but they did a GREAT job on it.. i will post some pics. when i get my car back..
but yea.. :\ suxs to be in miami.. anyone lookin for a room mate that is smart about rx-7s.. :o
now i need to wait till i get my Cwest body kit & rotaryextreme's hood. b4 i get that painted.. im gonna wait off and get the whole car repainted.
i just recently been hit back there. and omg. what a pain in the ***..
first off that 1/4 pannel is about 450 bucks from dealer ship. ( Bird road mazda . in miami ., FL) its in black.
second off... to get to the 1/4 pannel.. you need to remove tail lights and center lights. and bumper.. right when you take the bumper off.. you will see where its weilded.. pop the spot weilds off it.. then.. you need to cut.. on the door ( not the door door.. but i mean.. in that location.. above the door and under the door.) .. middle top.. and middle bottm you need to cut that totaly out the stock 1/4 pannel covers all the way that high... and from what i saw.. when you open the door. it covers part of that as well...
how do i know.. like i said someone hit me pretty bad.. ( and im REALLY surprised how much dmg that 1/4pannel took.. and held up. ) fukin strong. and i was worried about a body shop doing a shitty *** job with it.. so i took it to the dealer. i know thats a giant no no.. but.. no one does better body work then a dealer.
so... i watched the body shop guys do their job..
pretty shocked about how they did it.. but they did a GREAT job on it.. i will post some pics. when i get my car back..
but yea.. :\ suxs to be in miami.. anyone lookin for a room mate that is smart about rx-7s.. :o
now i need to wait till i get my Cwest body kit & rotaryextreme's hood. b4 i get that painted.. im gonna wait off and get the whole car repainted.
the 1st step is to have the new panel sitting there to look at as guide!
looking around the edge of the of the old panel you can see tack welds every couple of inches and you must drill these out.If necessary, I drill a hole and stretch the skin back a little to make it easier to see the next weld.Also NOTE that on the rear of the panel it is sandwiched between two pieces of metal. I have a few pics attached that kinda show this procedure. On the rear cornes it is abrazed and you must us a cutting tool.
once this is done you should be able to peel it off,there are plstic clips on the bottom that are easy to get off.
put the new panel in place and try to duplicate the factory welds.BE CAREFUL ALIGNING TRUNK AND DOOR!
Heres a few pics that might help
Tommorrow,Sunday afternoon Ill be leaving for the holidays and wont be on the forum for a few days but will try to answer tomarrow before leaving
looking around the edge of the of the old panel you can see tack welds every couple of inches and you must drill these out.If necessary, I drill a hole and stretch the skin back a little to make it easier to see the next weld.Also NOTE that on the rear of the panel it is sandwiched between two pieces of metal. I have a few pics attached that kinda show this procedure. On the rear cornes it is abrazed and you must us a cutting tool.
once this is done you should be able to peel it off,there are plstic clips on the bottom that are easy to get off.
put the new panel in place and try to duplicate the factory welds.BE CAREFUL ALIGNING TRUNK AND DOOR!
Heres a few pics that might help
Tommorrow,Sunday afternoon Ill be leaving for the holidays and wont be on the forum for a few days but will try to answer tomarrow before leaving
the 1st step is to have the new panel sitting there to look at as guide!
looking around the edge of the of the old panel you can see tack welds every couple of inches and you must drill these out.If necessary, I drill a hole and stretch the skin back a little to make it easier to see the next weld.Also NOTE that on the rear of the panel it is sandwiched between two pieces of metal. I have a few pics attached that kinda show this procedure. On the rear cornes it is abrazed and you must us a cutting tool.The same goes for the roof line cut.This cut is something you to cut by eye comparing it to the new one.
once this is done you should be able to peel it off,there are plstic clips on the bottom that are easy to get off.
put the new panel in place and try to duplicate the factory welds.BE CAREFUL ALIGNING TRUNK AND DOOR!
Heres a few pics that might help
Tommorrow,Sunday afternoon Ill be leaving for the holidays and wont be on the forum for a few days but will try to answer tomorrow before leaving
looking around the edge of the of the old panel you can see tack welds every couple of inches and you must drill these out.If necessary, I drill a hole and stretch the skin back a little to make it easier to see the next weld.Also NOTE that on the rear of the panel it is sandwiched between two pieces of metal. I have a few pics attached that kinda show this procedure. On the rear cornes it is abrazed and you must us a cutting tool.The same goes for the roof line cut.This cut is something you to cut by eye comparing it to the new one.
once this is done you should be able to peel it off,there are plstic clips on the bottom that are easy to get off.
put the new panel in place and try to duplicate the factory welds.BE CAREFUL ALIGNING TRUNK AND DOOR!
Heres a few pics that might help
Tommorrow,Sunday afternoon Ill be leaving for the holidays and wont be on the forum for a few days but will try to answer tomorrow before leaving
Last edited by rx4ur7; Dec 22, 2002 at 02:39 AM.
is it possible to peform the removal without using another panel as a guide? even if you don't care what happens to the car, meaning... you could do as much damage as needed to the car in order to get the panel off because it is a parts car! so would it be just as possible to remove it without looking at another panel?
sorry, don't be confused... mmonaco and I are both performing the removal! So I didn't want you to think that we are posting on two different names just for the hell of it!
rx4ur7 thats a nice display . if he is trying to save this qtr to re use. well the chances are slim that it will be usable . If he was a professional , it would be a possability. i have done it also . the key is patience and time you will have to drill EVERY spot weld out and what ever you do dont start pulling and forcing it that **** is paper thin. Post a picture of it when you get it off good luck and by the way a new one is 384.00 from the dealer
I suggest you have another for the simple reason of being able to tell where to cut on the rear pillar.If you are cutting the car you plan to use then it is important to not cut too much!I f its a car you dont care about then cut high,Its better to have extra than not enough.
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