cane somebody tell me where the omp is??? I having it removed and putting a block off plate there becuase Im making sure my car isnt burning oil. btw HOW MUCH OIL AM I SUPPOSE TO USE???? Im just making sure that I have been using the correct amount.

 

You should use 1 qt per 1000 to 1500 miles. the omp is on the passenger side of the front cover below the water pump housing. you must also block off the other end of the oil lines under the UIM.

 

Why are you removing the OMP? Are you installing a Haltech? I don't see any other reason to...

 

i second that. why would you do away with it if no haltech going in? doesnt make any sence. obviously you understand that the OMP is injecting oil in the motor. this comes from your motor's oil. hence the loss of oil you may be experiencing.
how much oil are you going through to cause you to try this as your *troubleshooting*? even if the elctronic end of the OMP is not working properly, it still injects at 50% (from my understanding)

 

I know this is an on going debate, but I don't burn that much at all.

 

As I stated in the last post regarding that issue, I had a brand new OMP installed in January this year ($2300 w/labor, under warranty!). I go through a quart about every 1500 miles or so. The OMP is supposed to inject oil at a 1:400 ratio to gas consumed. I get about 15 mpg, so it seems like my car is running as it is supposed to. Most of the naysayers in the last debate are running around with 9-10 year old OMPs with 60k+ miles on them. I wonder who's car should be considered "properly running".

 

the haltech is already on the car.. the had a new engine from hayes and they gave the guy a different block. There is blue smoke comming out the exhuast.. I thought the pump was already removed so I was premixing the gas, so come to find out the pump it still there a working. Its not metering the oil its just dumping a **** load .

 

does anybody know a good site that can guide me throught it??

 

I just changed out my OMP a few weeks ago. Its not very easy. You need to remove all the intake hoses, alternator, belly pan, and I took out the air box too. The hardest part is actually getting the correct extensions to get a socket on the bolts. It's held on by three bolts. The top rear bolt is nearly impossible to get at without removing the turbos, but it IS possible. I was able to get a 1/4" socket on it crooked, but good enough to loosen and remove it. You'll see what I mean. The other two are not nearly as hard. You should use all 1/4" drive sockets, ratchet, and extensions, because you'll be working in very tight quarters.

It took me about two hours (?) to get it out, and maybe about three to put it back in. It took me about 30 minutes just to get the lower rear bolt started.

Good luck, and let me know if you have any questions. I took pictures while I did the job. They don't show a whole lot, but I can post them tonight if you want.

 

I have a t-78 so it wouldnt be a problem. will the injectors come out to ????

 

can you send me pics to my email?? my email is thornton@dbtech.net thanks

 

If you have a single, unbolting it should be a lot easier. I am emailing you the pics right now. They don't show a whole lot, but at least they show what I had to remove to get at it. The injectors are bolted into the housings, so they will not come out. You have to unbolt the oil lines from the oil pump. The only reason to remove the alternator is to get at the plug for the omp. The wiring from the omp runs up the front of the engine, snakes around the water pump housing, and plugs into the wiring harness near the alternator.

 

Here's a picture I took of the MOP after removing the intake and air pump. What you're looking at is basically right below the air pump. Not sure if it helps, but here it is anyway.

 

Sounds like a Hayes engine, all right...

 

yep, the motor is under warranty but if it is burning oil im not going to waste my $300 on there bullshit, i going to have brian at bnr rebiuld it for me.