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Removed my UIM for the first time. Keep solenoids or not?

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Old Jun 19, 2006 | 09:37 PM
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ArmitageGVR4's Avatar
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Removed my UIM for the first time. Keep solenoids or not?

I recently installed a manual boost controller and blocked off the wastegate actuator and turbo precontrol actuator bleeder lines that run to the solenoids.

Today I removed the UIM for the first time and am trying to tidy things up in there. Following the clubrx.org VFAQ, I removed a pair of solenoids from the UIM pictured here:



I am assuming these are the wastegate and prespool solenoids and if that's the case is there any reason I shouldn't just remove them for good instead of putting them back? There are 4 vaccum lines, 2 for each solenoid. I figure 2 of them head down to the hard pipes near the actuators but I don't know what the other 2 are for. Suggestions?

I also capped off the AWS pipe while I was in there. I plan to leave the AWS electrically disconnected as well. I don't have any blockoff plates at this time. Is it alright just to remove the pipe that goes to the tbody elbow (installing a GReddy anyway) and cap it off? Seems that most people are using blockoff plates.

Thanks!
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Old Jun 19, 2006 | 09:50 PM
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Mahjik's Avatar
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If you are running the stock ECU (or rechipped stock ECU), you will get a CEL by disconnecting the solenoids:

http://fd3s.net/engine_codes.html

Whether or not it will throw the car into limp mode; I don't think you want to find out.
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Old Jun 19, 2006 | 09:54 PM
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Do you have an after market ECU ? If you remove the solenoids and do not put in the correct resistors the stock ECU will give codes and go into limp mode . The left sol is turbo precontrol the right one with the white paint is wastsgate control
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Old Jun 19, 2006 | 10:00 PM
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ArmitageFD3S
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Ah that answers that, thanks guys!
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Old Jun 20, 2006 | 08:11 PM
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ArmitageFD3S
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Tonight's fun

Okay I've worked a bit more on changing out the vaccum lines, cleaning the ISC, flipping around the TPS to clear my greddy oil filter housing, etc. A few new questions I hope you guys can help me with:

1) I've identified the 4 check valves that I'm going to replace. They're all green/white. However, there's something that looks like a check valve that runs from the UIM to the MAP sensor. What's this and should I replace it?




2) I wasn't paying very close attention when I removed the vacuum lines from the rear of the UIM -- assumed they'd all be the same. Oops. One of these three apparently runs the double throttle actuator on the UIM. I *assume* it's the one with the check valve but I've been wrong before. Any help here?




3) All vacuum lines and ports are accounted for except this guy. Nothing appears to be hooked up to it and it doesn't have the characteristic "clean spot" you get when a hose was removed, indicating it hasn't been used previously. Safe to ignore this?



Thanks guys, you've been a tremendous help so far. I'm almost done with this and then I'll shut up and stop asking questions for a long time, deal?
Attached Thumbnails Removed my UIM for the first time. Keep solenoids or not?-checkvalve.jpg   Removed my UIM for the first time. Keep solenoids or not?-doublethrottle.jpg   Removed my UIM for the first time. Keep solenoids or not?-whoisthis.jpg  
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Old Jun 20, 2006 | 08:18 PM
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The first pic is the filter that leads into the map sensor, not a check valve.
The third pic looks like the hard line that's only used on automatics, safe to ignore on a manual FD.
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Old Jun 20, 2006 | 08:33 PM
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as for the 3 pipes in the 2nd picture---> The pipe on the right with no one way valve runs the double throttle,,,, the middle and left one both go to the inlet manifold vacuume nipples.
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Old Jun 20, 2006 | 09:19 PM
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Do a search for the vacuum hose diagram. I dont have it with me or I'd post it for you. It shows you exactly where all the vacuum hoses connect to. This is also in the factory service manual.
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