SteveLehtinen

Ok, I know this has been asked before.
I have scoured the forum archives in search of a perfect list of reliability mods.

Please add to it, or comment on it as needed.

1. Get a downpipe
2. Buy a boost gauge (either manual or electronic)
3. Replace Air Separator tank with a metal one
4. Replace vacuum hoses, coolant hoses, and heater hoses
5. Replace rubber intake hose couplers
6. Disable the EGR valve
7. Buy an aluminum radiator
8. Buy silicon water seals
9. Buy 2mm apex seals
10. Buy an electronic temperature gauge

There are probably more things that can be done, but I must have missed them in my search.

Oh, one more thing. With these mods done, on an otherwise stock car, would there be a need for a new ECU?

- Steve

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

http://www.scuderiaciriani.com/rx7/reliability.html

KZ1

If you get stand alone ECU, then you don't need to:
disable EGR valve
electronic temp gauge

I woudl only repolace vaccum hoses and intake couplers if you haev boost problem.

Radiotaor is wast of money if you don't take it on the track or have front-mount intercooler. Just make sure your coling system is working properly. new thermostat, waterthermosensor, etc.

Apex seals and water selas? you plan on blowing up your engine?


basically buy a downpipe, get a boost gauge, and bring car up to proper maintenace. bleed brakes, tranny fluid, fuel filtre, etc. all the things in the manual. You can get AST if you want, I guess many of them break, although I still have stock and have never had a problem.

CPA

Change out the thermostat if you don't know when it was last changed out. If the old one sticks, you are up the creek. You are ok with the stock ECU. If you do more than two mods that increase air flow, you need a new ECU. You could still add a cat back OR intake and be ok. If you do both, you will need an ECU.

mmaragos

"Buying" 2mm apex seals & silicon water seals???

I would agree that these may be good choice for a rebuild, but not really reliability mods.

All of the "standard" maintenance items, plugs, thermostat (been said), wires, air filter, oil & filter, etc. are important for reliability too.

Also...radiator will be dependent upon the condition of the existing unit. The OEMs typically go through hell and back. After years of service they lose their efficiency (may lead to insufficient cooling) and will have a higher probability of failure (plastic tank failure, etc.). Not saying that you should replace, but you should consider based on a visual inspection and how yours performs.

Flybye

He said BUY not BUY and INSTALL. I think he just wants to hang them from his rear view mirror for good luck

Trexthe3rd

A/F gauge
water temp gauge
Fan mod

SteveLehtinen

Thanks for the sarcastic responses, they're greatly appreciated.

- Steve

trigeek37

http://www.scuderiaciriani.com/rx7/reliability.html

that page says not to use synthetic oil, but I have been told that synthetic oil works very well in rotary engines. Have I been misled?

rynberg

I don't understand the controversy over using synthetic oil. It does not work better, it has the potential of damaging your rotary engine, and it costs a lot more. Why use it?

trigeek37

I am using synthetic oil, casue that is what the RX7 guy at the local dealership told me I should use. If this is not the case, what should I use then?

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

I posted this a while back, it's straight from Racing Beat's Performance Guide:


"The Mazda factory does not recommend the use of synthetic oils in their rotary engines - specifically addressing this issue in the Owner's Manual.

In 1979, Racing Beat began testing synthetic lubrication products. Without a doubt, the best synthetic oils do perform well in extreme heat (over 300 F) and extreme cold (below 32 F), but by the nature of Mazda's rotary engine, the oil temperature never exceeds 250 F without severe engine damage due to other factors. In Souther California, we have difficulty seeing the low-temperature benefits: however, when we put synthetic lubricants in the engine, transmission, and differential in our IMSA GTU race car, we immediately saw what we later found to be a common result: The oil temperature in all three locations dropped 5 to 10 F for the same operating conditions. This is apparently due to two factors: reduced friction between sliding surfaces, and reduced foaming. As we continued to use synthetic oil products it became clear that they genuinely reduced wear. We also found benefits in street use. On two occassions, cars with "scratchy" transmissions synchronizers were completely cured by a change to synthetic gear lube. After many years of experience with these products we have observed only one problem: because of the reduced friction, the time necessary to break in an engine, transmission, or limted slip differential (standard differentials are no problem) is excessively long, so we recommend using mineral oil in all three for a time to ensure rapid break in."

widebody2

Here's one more sarcastic response: I highly doubt there is a such thing as a manual boost gauge. A lot of people get boost gauge and controller confused. Sorry for being rude but I am sick and cranky haha. About the synthetic oil...I am confused too. I used to use it and I swear it made my car a hair faster. I am not even kidding either. I've actually heard it can add 2 hp. flame if you want but I've read that in a book. I stopped using it when I brought my 7 in to a dealer to have like 7 oil leaks fixed and the guy flipped on me because you aren't supposed to use synthetics in a rotary. He said these engines have a small amount of oil purposely burned to help lubricate the engine. That is the reason they smoke more than your everyday piston engine. Sythetic oils really don't burn so they cause a massive amount of buildup in the engine...all just what I've been told. I've also seen that all of the top racers use synthetics...still confused. I guess those guys go through engines so fast that they don't really need to worry about any kind of build up over time. maybe maybe not. who knows

widebody2

I am actually going to switch back to synthecis now

trigeek37

any more thoughts on conventional vs syntheic oil?

mmaragos

In wasn't being sarcastic, 2mm apex seals are not really a "reliability mod"...that's what the stock are and you need them for your motor to run.

Not too sure about the synthetic issue. I don't use synthetic. I think that a lot of "top racers" premix (oil in the gas) and don't use the OMP, then the synthetic is not being injected.

Gir

I would see a radiator as a must, due to the fact that a lot of people have lost a motor due to the radiator (plastic caps) cracking or bursting and losing coolant. Besides that it will cool at least twice as good, and we all know a cooler motor is a happier motor.

juliof

I am sure you can use sythetics in the 13BREW but why would you? It makes more sense to replace youre oil every 2K or less so youre motor only runs on clean fresh oil.You are not going to stress mineral based oils any how unless you track race youre car.I would rather put money into upgrading the engines cooling system and oil coolers than using synthetics , the 13BREW doesnt fail from a lack of lubrication.Plus with only 3 main internal moving parts there isant that much friction to over come compared to a piston engine.

SteveLehtinen

My fault on the gauge/controller screw up.


About the 2mm seals...I should have said "Replace". I stated that they were 2mm because I know you can buy them in 3mm as well, and so on. Now I know you wouldn't put 3mm seals on a pretty much stock car, but I figured that some people wouldn't.

- Steve

mmaragos

No real need to go with 3mm seals, unless your housings and rotors dictate it (due to wear). The 2mm stock seals have shown to take very high boost.

Some might say that they (3mm) will take an extra ping or two, but the tuning is what counts. Stay rich.

You will only need to replace the seals if the engine needs to be rebuilt. I guess that you could consider that a reliability mod...a new/rebuilt engine...