240kat

I'm new to the website, but i have been doing a lot of researching.
it seems as though these 'reliability mods' lists are more like mod plans. My question is are all these things (i/c, intake, downpipe, catback, pfc, radiatior, fans, fuel pump, etc) all really nessisary for the close to stock owner? I plan on a catback, AST, boost gauge, turbo timer, silicone hose replacement, ground kit and cooling system hose replacement. Is that sufficient for the close to stock kind of owner? I'm hip to the maintance needed with these cars, but all the other mods?

pugg57

the only things i can think of that i was told were "reliability mods" from the very beginning are the AST, radiator, and DP (possibly the vacuum lines). other than that, the rest of it starts to get into modifications for power. boost garge is a good thing to have to keep tabs on boost its a nice thing to have. i don't know what you plan on doing to the car, but if you intend to put a new ECU in there, the PFC has a read out on its little Commander hand set which will keep a good visual of Water Temp and boost for you with peak holds, etc.

its all up to you how much you wanna do and where you want to draw the line between reliabiility and too much saftey.

i do recommend taking care of your radiator, AST and DP first things first. after that, a boost gauge, water guage, and vacuum hoses. you definitely DO NOT need a turbo timer on the car just drive easy for the last 5-10 minutes of your trip and make sure the car is at a "comfortably" cool water temp before you shut it off.

that's my recommendations to you, but if i were you (as i once was) i'd just wait till some of the more knowledgable guys chime in.

DaleClark

iTrader: (55)

There were a number of design flaws in the car that Mazda made either due to cost, emissions concerns, what have you. Addressing them will give you a much more reliable car, help engine life, and in some cases give you some performance.

The key mods are downpipe, AST, FC fan thermoswitch, boost gauge, and water temp gauge. With those done the car will still be making around the stock power levels, maybe a little more, with much less engine bay heat, better fan control, and you'll have a better idea of what's happening under the hood.

IMHO, doing a full silicone hose replacement is overkill. If the car is boosting properly with the stock lines, leave them be. If you have to pull the upper intake manifold for something, have some silicone line on hand to replace the lines you disconnect to remove it. The only difference is I would seriously consider is getting a short bit of silicone hose to replace the line to the MAP sensor.

I think the only other thing to add would be a 2.75" silicone connector to replace the rubber connector at the y-pipe to crossover pipe. The stock rubber coupler routinely splits, creating a boost leak and loss of power.

Besides that, keep up with maintenance.

Dale

DamonB

These cars are getting up in age. They don't need mods to be reliable, they just need worn parts replaced. For instance people poo-poo the stock radiator for leaking. Guess what? The thing is over 10 years old and like all plastic radiators on every car built in the past 20 years it may crack. Put another plastic one in there and it will go another 10 years.

The only things these cars need that they weren't built with is a boost gauge, a downpipe and silicone vacuum hoses. Anything else is optional and like Dale I wouldn't bother with the vac hoses unless they needed it.

If I bought another FD the first thing I would do is replace every coolant hose on it. It's probably never been done and they're all old.

My mod list

240kat

i like your mod list damon. the previous owner had the intake manifold gasket and fuel pump done about 10,000 miles ago along with replacement of all the vacuum hoses with new stock ones, so they're probably okay. a car is a car even if its a 7..maintance>"reliabilty mods" i think.

Sgtblue

iTrader: (16)

Your approach to this car sounds alot like mine. Keeping it close to stock and just maintaining it. IMHO, unless you plan on tracking the car, the stock IC is just fine for the same reasons DamonB gave for the radiator. Also, consider saving your money on the turbo timer. The turbos are water cooled on these cars so it doesn't do much.

drivelikejehu

^ i thought they are or also are oil cooled? or am i mis-informed?

airborne

both oil and water cooled right?

pinkrx7

iTrader: (2)

both oil and water cooled

drivelikejehu

ok good thats what my previous knowledge told me . whew... thought i was going crazy there for a minute.

rynberg

ALL turbos are oil-cooled...

240kat, you've gotten good advice here from some of the wiser owners on the forum. I applaud your researching, the only problem is sorting through the large amount of crap that is typical of internet forums.

It sounds like you will be a responsible and wise owner, good luck!

akiratdk

I agree with everyone as well... If you car works fine as it is then leave it. If there is a time where you need to open parts up then that will be an oportunity to check if things are ok. These cars are more than 10 years old... as a result hoses and moving parts are going to start wearing and tearing.
Preventive maintenance I think is the key... if your not going to make 500 HP and if your just going to keep it at stock levels then I would do these.
Boost Guage
Radiator
Downpipe
AST
and maybe a FC thermo fan switch.

DamonB

Oops; I left an aluminum AST off my list. That is a sure thing to do as well.

BobfisH

IMHO opinion, ESSENTIAL things include a boost gauge.

Anything else goes - youll see it. AST blows - youll see steam, youll see a low coolant warning. Temps get too high, youll see it. vac line cracks, youll feel it in the car...bla bla.

i personally though would fit a boost gauge and a water temp gauge to a stock car. Nothing else is NEEDED, just beneficial.

dgeesaman

iTrader: (7)

Not a reliability mod. Just for a little more power, noise, and appearance.

The stocker can be replaced with another stock tank for a very reasonable price, or eliminated. I had an aluminum one, but for over $100 it seems like overkill.

Very important, if you want to know if you're getting full power, and not at risk of blowing your engine.

Entirely unnecessary. Run a quick search and you'll uncover a huge list of members who agree.

Good to do when the time comes. (Engine rebuild, when the manifold is off, when you have a boost problem, etc)

Unnecessary unless your stock grounds are falling apart or you're having hesitation problems with a stock ECU.

Very important.

Radiator, like DamonB said, is sorta nice because it adds extra 'padding' to the cooling capacity, but is not necessary for most drivers. Plus, you can get really low mileage stock rads for under $100. If you add a water temp gauge to the car, and install a 2nd gen thermoswitch or some other fan mod, you'll know if you really need more capacity. Most don't. The stock fans are fine if they are in working order.

PFC and intake are not reliability mods. Downpipe is, and I recommend installing one. Fuel pump and intercooler are really only necessary if you expect to run higher than stock (over 10psi) boost.

Dave

ehos

I would like to mention something that no one has listed, but might be unconventional.

Adding a lubricant to oil and gas. Something like a bit of 'Seafoam' to your oil (during oil changes) and gas during fillups.

Also, keep your gas tank more than 1/4 full all the time and change your fuel filter!!

rynberg

Why? LOL. What a waste of money and effort. Oil IS a lubricant. That is it's function (aside from internal cooling with a rotary). Why would you add a lubricant to a lubricant?

Larz

I use a fuel injection cleaner about once every three months. I see people use stuff like seafoam every tank and it is just overkill. 3 months is overkill as it is.

ehos

Seafoam helps fight carbon deposits. It's their claim anyways.

And it's not a HUGE effort to open cap, add Seafoam. And that $5, ouch...

rynberg

It's still a waste of money and effort (after all, it's just one more thing to buy at the store) and it does nothing. If you want to reduce carbon buildup, don't drive like a grandma or with a improperly functioning/tuned car.

Recommending a product like this as a reliability mod is silly IMO. The other "reliability mods" were developed to fix a real problem and actually serve a use. Adding a "mystery fluid" to the oil is more like voodoo, as there is no proof it's doing anything. Talk about overkill...

DaveW

Actually, they do do something - make money for the companies that hype and sell them...

21K95RX7

rynberg what did you mean by all turbos are oil cooled? that all turbos made for the FD are oil cooled? my sti's stock turbo was water cooled, just wondering....

DaveW

Water cooled IN ADDITION to the always present oil lubrication and cooling.

alexdimen

iTrader: (13)

adding lube to oil may be silly, but ehos also said something about pre-mixing. which isn't silly... well maybe if you do it wearing a novelty cowboy hat or something.

adding TCW3 to gas in the proper amounts can either supplement the stock oil injection system or completely replace it and surpass it's effectiveness. the latter of which is kind of a middle ground between a functioning stock oil injection system and converting the stock system to inject 2 cycle TCW3 oil.

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

where it freezes, yes. ive seen a bunch of poor quality aluminum ast's over the years, they corrode around where the radiator cap is supposed to seal.

here where it doesnt freeze the stock ast is cheaper, and lasts longer.