im gettin desperate for information here.
ok. soooooooo just did a rebuild. no emmisions, non sequetial with resistors in the square plugs.. only things left are the purge control selenoid and the wastegate seleniod.

fuel pump kicks on, pressurizes system.
spark is present.
engine cranks over fine.
little puffs of smoke out the tail pipe. very minimal.
primary injectors click when cranked over.
there is compression. no idea how much but theres definetly good even pops..

what is my problem? the engine acts as if it doesnt even try to start. there is fuel present in the combustion chambers. and air and spark...
what am i doing wrong. did i miss one plug?
what are the symptoms for switching the knock sensor and power steering? will it still run?
what are the absolute bare minimum systems needed to run?
i have a code for a purge selenoid,
a code for fuel thermo sensor, which i broke.
egr
split air bypass
port air bypass
idle speed control
accelerated warmup
relief 2 codes

did my ecu die on me?
ive been workin on this thing for almost 5 days straight wondering what ive done wrong!
im extremely desperate to get this thing going as soooooon as possible.
even who to call would be good.
any info would be great! please!
thx.

 

where are you located?

 

bout 80 miles north of santa rosa.. kinda a no mans land.
if its low on compression would push starting it work? lol.
im lookin for just about anything i can do right now.

 

Thermosensor bad will give a way wrong fuel mixture - start there...

 

thx. i was told thermo would make it run really rich but it would still run. that may be incorrect though.
i almost wanna say its a timing issue now. its definetly burning somthing but like not when its compressed. im not sure on that. doing a compression test tonight and am going to test my CAS's.

 

My FD starts cold after rebuild, but when the car warm up, there is nothing.. I don't understand, and here in north europe we don't have any specialist who knows anything about wankel motors. I'am so hopeless.. Today we measure engine pressures. Pressures was same in every sides of rotor, and both cylinders. About 6bars, is that ok?

 

well checked the compression yesterday and turns out i only have 42psi in the front rotor and 59psi in the rear rotor. using a normal piston guage. so i guess my housings are alittle more off then i thought they were.. so damn. time to pull the motor back out and spend some more money i guess. damn it. i miss my baby!.
thx guys

 

^ considering your using used housings, and have 0 miles on the engine.. that low of compression doesn't surprise me. Onlything I could suggest you try before you pull the motor... get brand new spark plugs, put a bit of oil in the champers about 2oz in each housing. put everything on, and have somone tow with a rope to about 30mph, and then put it 2nd gear while rolling, slip in the clutch and it should fire up if it is indeed getting fuel and spark.

Hope that helps.

 

That's ok, almost 90 psi. If it's a fresh rebuild then that is fine. That shouldnt cause the car to not run.

 

I've got the same problem with my 2nd gen. Fresh rebuild with used parts, wont turn over on it's own, but I can tow start it. Runs @ 1800 and kinda gutless on the street, even after it warms up it still wont start on it's own...

 

so towing it might work until the apex seals breakin to the housings? hmm very intresting. i have brand new ngk plugs in it and ive tried puttin atf in the cyl. i tried clutch droppin down a hill but it was dirt and could only get like 1k rpm out of it and it still wouldnt fire. but that was a major loss in traction attempting that too. hmm trying to figure out how i could get a decent tow line setup without ripping off my front bumper or if im just gonna remove it to try.
thx.