a/c compressor gone bad?
08-04-07, 03:36 PM
#1
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a/c compressor gone bad?
i converted my ac system over to r134 last week then discovered a leak. got a new line and fixed the leak today and filled it up with coolant. then the compressor didnt come on. is there some way to test if it is still good or not? also, is the ac on an FD the same as on an FC where you have to jack the engine up to get the compressor off?
thanks
thanks
08-04-07, 09:34 PM
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Jump the pressure switch, the plug is next to the drier. If that doesn't kick the compressor on then jump the relay in the relay box by the air box. There are several reasons for the ECU not to kick the compressor on, temp, power steering switch, TPS etc....
If that doesn't kick on the compressor check the voltage at the compressor magnenetic clutch.
Compressor comes out without moving the engine, 1 electrical connector, 4 bolts and two lines to remove. Good Luck!
If that doesn't kick on the compressor check the voltage at the compressor magnenetic clutch.
Compressor comes out without moving the engine, 1 electrical connector, 4 bolts and two lines to remove. Good Luck!
08-05-07, 12:11 PM
#4
Your probably wasting your time swapping out the compressor. As already stated, you need to see if you power and a good ground at the comp. clutch. If not work backwards until you find the problem, pressure switch, relay,dash switch, fuse, etc. The first thing to do is hook up gauges and see if you have proper charge in the system.
08-11-07, 10:23 PM
#6
Constant threat
Jump the pressure switch, the plug is next to the drier. If that doesn't kick the compressor on then jump the relay in the relay box by the air box. There are several reasons for the ECU not to kick the compressor on, temp, power steering switch, TPS etc....
If that doesn't kick on the compressor check the voltage at the compressor magnenetic clutch.
Compressor comes out without moving the engine, 1 electrical connector, 4 bolts and two lines to remove. Good Luck!
If that doesn't kick on the compressor check the voltage at the compressor magnenetic clutch.
Compressor comes out without moving the engine, 1 electrical connector, 4 bolts and two lines to remove. Good Luck!
Hmmmm....when I rebuilt my engine, I couldn't remove the lower bolts for the compressor without lifting the engine, there isn't enough room between the compressor housing and the frame to get those long bolts out.
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08-12-07, 10:06 AM
#9
08-12-07, 10:47 AM
#10
Chuck, I think he's talking about pulling the compressor without removing the engine.
Worst case, if faced with this problem I'd lift it off the motor mounts or something.
To the OP: what exactly did you do in the process of converting? What did you replace, how did you flush the lines, etc? A/C work requires perfect attention to detail.
Dave
Worst case, if faced with this problem I'd lift it off the motor mounts or something.
To the OP: what exactly did you do in the process of converting? What did you replace, how did you flush the lines, etc? A/C work requires perfect attention to detail.
Dave
08-12-07, 11:02 AM
#11
Constant threat
Hmmm....I of course defer to those that have done this more than me but....there was NO WAY those long-*** bolts that go thru the compressor housing from the side were coming out. Obviously one must not need to take THOSE bolts out in order to get the compressor off.
08-12-07, 11:15 AM
#12
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I just removed my compressor from the car. I had no problems removing it and the bolts do not need to come all the way out. loosen everything and just giggle the compressor and pull it forward toward the battery area it will come out just fine.
(1) remove battery and battery tray
(2) loosen and remove A/C & P/S belt
(3) loosen all compressor bolts and pull them out as far as you can
(4) unhook compressor electronic connector
(5) jiggle and pull compressor out.
No need to loosen motor mount or jack up the engine. not in my case anyway.
Jeff
(1) remove battery and battery tray
(2) loosen and remove A/C & P/S belt
(3) loosen all compressor bolts and pull them out as far as you can
(4) unhook compressor electronic connector
(5) jiggle and pull compressor out.
No need to loosen motor mount or jack up the engine. not in my case anyway.
Jeff
08-12-07, 01:19 PM
#15
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Unclusters the engine bay
Nothing Obstruting the radiator or FMIC(If you have one)
Less Strain on the battery
Easier to get to stuff
I have never had air conditioning on any of my cars since i was 16 and started to work on my own cars there is no need for it, just roll down the windows.
Nothing Obstruting the radiator or FMIC(If you have one)
Less Strain on the battery
Easier to get to stuff
I have never had air conditioning on any of my cars since i was 16 and started to work on my own cars there is no need for it, just roll down the windows.
08-12-07, 02:40 PM
#16
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And you wonder why you don't have a girlfriend? LOL.
According to the National Weater Service, as of this writing the current temp in Iowa is 90 degrees, and the NWS says the "feels like" temp is 95. I'd hate to get a whiff of your interior.
08-12-07, 03:53 PM
#18
Passing life by
More then likely the compressor is not kicking on because it is still low on refrigerant. Keep filling it but know the system will never get as cold as it should unless you have it evacuated. The advice on jumpering the relay is good basically you just send 12vdc to the exciter wire on the compressor and when shes full enough it will start engaging the clutch. Don't jumper it without any refrigerant.
Also the FC compressor can be removed easily without jacking the engine up on rebuilds I just pull it and the PS pump off and tie them up to the strut tower with motorcycle straps :-)
Also the FC compressor can be removed easily without jacking the engine up on rebuilds I just pull it and the PS pump off and tie them up to the strut tower with motorcycle straps :-)
08-12-07, 05:02 PM
#19
Constant threat
Unclusters the engine bay
Nothing Obstruting the radiator or FMIC(If you have one)
Less Strain on the battery
Easier to get to stuff
I have never had air conditioning on any of my cars since i was 16 and started to work on my own cars there is no need for it, just roll down the windows.
Nothing Obstruting the radiator or FMIC(If you have one)
Less Strain on the battery
Easier to get to stuff
I have never had air conditioning on any of my cars since i was 16 and started to work on my own cars there is no need for it, just roll down the windows.
Hell, I can't stand the wind buffeting with the windows down at anything above about 60 mph.
Kudos to you for taking the heat straight up the ***, the rest of us will enjoy our air conditioners, thank you.
I simply can't imagine not having a/c.
Last edited by bajaman; 08-12-07 at 05:08 PM.
08-12-07, 05:54 PM
#21
Constant threat
Yes indeed. Good to get this back on track...sorry.
I have done a few R-134a conversions and have had pretty good results overall.
I would get a can of the ultraviolet dye if I was you. Install it into the system.
I suspect you have such a large leak that your low pressure switch is telling the system to not come on. Put in the dye along with 1 can of refrigerant, then try to turn things on. One full pound of refrigerant SHOULD allow the system to active, though you may have to add about half a pound more if you are completely low.
Anyways, run the dye for a while then get a small blacklight and check for leaks. USUALLY it is an 'O' ring that has failed. Or it could be that you never got that first leak fixed. Either way, the dye will fluoresce and you will be on your way to happy, cool motoring again.
It would be best had you changed the drier when you converted....there are a lot of issues with NOT doing so.
08-12-07, 07:40 PM
#22
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nope, didnt change the dryer, but the pressure didnt bleed off at all when i recharged it. i didnt even put a full can in and the pressure was up to where it should be. but im pretty sure i evacuated the system, because i have disconected and replaced one of the lines. or do you actually have to push someting through the lines in order to completely get rid of everything?
08-12-07, 07:52 PM
#23
Constant threat
How are you checking the charge pressure? Do you have a full set of gauges? The is a balance you have to strike in the low pressure (suction side) and the high pressure sides. Most shops that do a full conversion will disconnect everything and and run some ester thru the system, drain all the old oil from the compressor, then change the drier, then add R-134a compliant oil to the compressor and the proper amount of refrigerant. I am not an expert but there are little filters and valves and things that can become plugged as the mineral oil used in R-12 is NOT compatible with R-134a, hence why it is SO important to change the drier and the compressor oil.