So I was driving my car back from the club one night and the coolant light came on and started making that beeping sound we all know so well. So I look at the gauge and the first words out of my mouth are WTF!? My temp was way hot so I exit the freeway cause I know of a gas station near by. Before I even make it to the gas station the 7 shuts off!!! So I scream F_CK!!!!! coast it into the station, call AAA, have it towed to the house and there she sits. Started to take stuff apart and the radiator had a huge crack on top it looked like the damn things was made of plastic. Anyway I bought a Fluidyne and it finally came in dropped it in and nothing. Looks like she's going to have to take another trip to the shop. I should have replaced that damn thing and the IC when I dropped the new motor.
$$$ down the drain. It was a damn good motor too. Port and polished, 1300cc secondaries, bigger fuel pump, PFC,upgraded apex seals and water seals, DP, High flow cat, Apexi GT spec exhaust.

I did her wrong gentlemen and she bit me right in the *** and told me so.
May this be a lesson to all who still have not learned like my self. Upgrade all your damn cooling please. That way are 7's will be making us happy instead of draining our wallets. I wish this on no 7 owner this Holiday season. May the Rotary Gods smile upon thee.

 

Sorry about the luck! At least you now have a good radiator for when you get it all back together!

 

Well, technically all that other stuff is still useful...just gotta get the new motor, port job, and upgraded seals and you'll be back in the game. I mean, it's not like you're going to have to get another downpipe, set of fuel injectors, a new fuel pump, a new power FC, etc.

Sorry about the luck - hope the rebuild goes nice and smooth for ya

 

Thanks for the heads up, I just ordered my new radiator after reading this. And I am not kidding.

 

Replace your radiator hoses too. I learned that one the hard way...

 

Got some new hoses from Gotham racing , thank God I had enough sense to do that. Thank you all for wishing me luck with the rebuild. I'll try to document this and keep everone posted. I'll be taking it to Ricks Rotary in Pleasanton Ca for the rebuild. They put the motor in last time and I was very happy with his work. He told me that I need to replace the radiator but I was trying to save $$$ cost myself more in the long run. Along with the rebuild there will be a long awaited IC upgrade that I have needed. Looking at RE Amemiya for that just not sure yet. I want to be able to keep as much of the AC, pwr str, ect. I also think a BOV is in order. But we'll see what all the damage is once it goes in next month. Got to save the $$$ last time I went over budget.......Ha ha ha.

 

Hey, you live near Pleasanton? I'm in San Ramon... so far I have seen a silver, red and white FD in the last year, but thats it.

And how do you know u need a rebuild? Did a coolant seal fail? How is the compression? If it only spiked for a minute or so, the damage might not be that bad... I would confirm before spending for another rebuild

 

Something like this happened to me with my 2nd gen, only difference is as soon as the buzzer came on I shut the car down and pulled over, did'nt care if I was in the freeway. I actually saved the motor from going.

Sorry to hear though, but dont give up.

 

Those are good questions and I'll have to look into them. I'm assuming I need the rebuild. The car shut itself off after it got too hot. When I found out it was the radiator I installed a new one and no go. It wont start. I'll have to call my uncle to help me with that before I take it to Rick's. All I know is "grunt grunt Heat Bad, grunt"
Thats the extent of my expertise....ha ha ha. I really need to read more. Thank you for the insight I'll see if I can get that checked this weekend.

 

I think everyone should have.

A metal radiator
The coolant kit Ray Crowe has on special
The fuel line kit Ray Crowe has on special
Cleaned and verified injectors.

 

So what WERE your temps? Do you have an aftermarket water temp gauge or PFC commander? You ought to pressurize your coolant system to make sure your engine is toast. How long were you driving (hopefully you were easy on it!) with your temps "way hot"? Where was the needle on the stock temp gauge? It may not be as bad as you think....

But as the previous poster suggested, while the engine is out, make sure you take care of any hoses related to the cooling & fuel systems. It's cheap insurance. Really. Call Ray Crowe @ Malloy Mazda. 1-888-533-3400.

 

sucks man...

i know how you feel though, my 7 just took a hit to the a$$. my e-brake failed while it was sitting on a hill at a friends house. it flew 200 feet down the hill and ended at a tree. $7,000 damage to the rear. its pretty much 100% fixable, just like your situation.

good way to start the new season...

 

Yeah my temp on the stock one was way hot. I think it read 124 or 127 on the PFC then the car shut itself off. Damn A1R sorry to hear about your 7. I should also replace my e brake as well just in case right? I never know when I maybe in SF parked on a hill. Hope your 7 is back on the road soon.

 

no need to replace the e-brake....just adjust the tension, that should do the trick

 

Man, that's nuts. It was a new motor too? I always knew rotary's needed their regular maintenance, but I never knew heat was their worst enemy. The apex seals are the little fins at each point on the rotor correct?

 

124 on the PFC shouldnt have killed your motor, are you sure you dont have something else going on?

 

Next time you will leave the car in gear ehhh?

 

it was still running smart guy...

i parked it and pulled the e-brake, took my foot off the brake and clutch. while i was still in it i turned off my ipod and put in the glove box. got out and talked to a friend for a min. or two. went inside and about 2 min later i hear a loud gun shot like sound....turns out my fd decided to go for a little ride of its own.