rear end clunk?
06-03-03, 02:07 PM
#2
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Or toe links are quite possible, best thing to do is jack it up in the rear, put it on jack stands and carefully yank on stuff and see if you can find the clunking, it should be something loose.
06-03-03, 03:10 PM
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I think i'm having the same problem too.....There seems to be a clunking noise from my rear end, around my rear tires. It makes a clunking noise when I shfit gears, putting on reverse and when I brake. The noise is getting really annoying...I was wondering if any know what the problem is...Any help would be greatly appreciated..
06-03-03, 03:51 PM
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very common in higher mileage-- FD's its a result of the worn stock bushings and pillowballs which are made of rubber. That is the reason many people opt for nylon or higher strength bushings that won't give out over time
06-03-03, 06:21 PM
#7
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Originally posted by yy4u
very common in higher mileage-- FD's its a result of the worn stock bushings and pillowballs which are made of rubber. That is the reason many people opt for nylon or higher strength bushings that won't give out over time
very common in higher mileage-- FD's its a result of the worn stock bushings and pillowballs which are made of rubber. That is the reason many people opt for nylon or higher strength bushings that won't give out over time
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06-03-03, 08:42 PM
#10
I've been told that it's worn differential bushings. I haven't gotten around to replacing mine, which I'll probably not regret even if they're not the cause of my clunks, considering they're ~110k old
06-03-03, 11:32 PM
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So what do you suggest replacing to get rid of that clunking sound? My fd has 103K miles on it. The clunking sound is getting worse and worse...Can you guys please tell me what I need to replace to get rid of that annoying clunking sound? thanks guys...
06-04-03, 06:45 AM
#13
The first steps to eliminating rear-end clunks:
1. Replace the pillow *****. There are six identical ones (3 per side) in the rear suspension. The only option for these bushings is the stock Mazda parts, since they are already spherical bearings. No opportunity for performance improvement is available, so the aftermarket does not make replacements. I wrote a how-to: http://www.maxcooper.com/rx7/how-to/...lls/index.html
2. Replace the toe links with aftermarket or stock parts.
Generally, rubber bushings don't clunk, they just make the car feel less precise than it did before. It is the all-metal spherical bearings (pillow *****) that clunk. Replacing the stock rubber bushings (in the spots where they are indeed rubber) with nylon replacements will make your car more likely to clunk, since hard things wear and clunk and soft things like rubber wear less quickly (no rubbing, just rubber stretching) and won't clunk when they do wear.
A cracked or loose PPF will clunk, as will worn wheel bearings. The pillow ***** and toe links are the most likely culprits for clunking, though, so I would replace those first.
-Max
1. Replace the pillow *****. There are six identical ones (3 per side) in the rear suspension. The only option for these bushings is the stock Mazda parts, since they are already spherical bearings. No opportunity for performance improvement is available, so the aftermarket does not make replacements. I wrote a how-to: http://www.maxcooper.com/rx7/how-to/...lls/index.html
2. Replace the toe links with aftermarket or stock parts.
Generally, rubber bushings don't clunk, they just make the car feel less precise than it did before. It is the all-metal spherical bearings (pillow *****) that clunk. Replacing the stock rubber bushings (in the spots where they are indeed rubber) with nylon replacements will make your car more likely to clunk, since hard things wear and clunk and soft things like rubber wear less quickly (no rubbing, just rubber stretching) and won't clunk when they do wear.
A cracked or loose PPF will clunk, as will worn wheel bearings. The pillow ***** and toe links are the most likely culprits for clunking, though, so I would replace those first.
-Max
Last edited by maxcooper; 06-04-03 at 06:50 AM.
06-04-03, 05:28 PM
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I've been told that it's worn differential bushings. I haven't gotten around to replacing mine, which I'll probably not regret even if they're not the cause of my clunks, considering they're ~110k old
I think i'm having the same problem too.....There seems to be a clunking noise from my rear end, around my rear tires. It makes a clunking noise when I shfit gears, putting on reverse and when I brake. The noise is getting really annoying...I was wondering if any know what the problem is...Any help would be greatly appreciated
I am having the same exact problem too...I jacked it up shook everything around....felt nothing loose... the rubber diff mounts did have some cracks though....
Is the pillow bushings for sure what the prob is??? and those diff mounts look like alot of pain to take off.
I think i'm having the same problem too.....There seems to be a clunking noise from my rear end, around my rear tires. It makes a clunking noise when I shfit gears, putting on reverse and when I brake. The noise is getting really annoying...I was wondering if any know what the problem is...Any help would be greatly appreciated
I am having the same exact problem too...I jacked it up shook everything around....felt nothing loose... the rubber diff mounts did have some cracks though....
Is the pillow bushings for sure what the prob is??? and those diff mounts look like alot of pain to take off.
11-17-04, 11:31 AM
#15
Max,
I've got some rear end clunk as well. Happens after the car has sat for a while and i reverse her out of the garage. I can hear the rear clunk a little and especially when i go over speedbumps. Do you think i need to just replace those bushings and the toe links? I can hear some clunk as well when i brake and shift gears.
thx
I've got some rear end clunk as well. Happens after the car has sat for a while and i reverse her out of the garage. I can hear the rear clunk a little and especially when i go over speedbumps. Do you think i need to just replace those bushings and the toe links? I can hear some clunk as well when i brake and shift gears.
thx
11-17-04, 11:38 AM
#16
Belligerent MoFo
I have the same clunking noise when driving over speedbumps or railroad tracks. I'm going to order te pillow ***** and bushings from Malloys and replace them over Thanksgiving... I am sure I'll be giving everything but thanks.
And a big UP for Max Coopers write up. I'll be following it to a T.
And a big UP for Max Coopers write up. I'll be following it to a T.
11-17-04, 11:41 AM
#17
Originally Posted by twinturborx7pete
Max,
I've got some rear end clunk as well. Happens after the car has sat for a while and i reverse her out of the garage. I can hear the rear clunk a little and especially when i go over speedbumps. Do you think i need to just replace those bushings and the toe links? I can hear some clunk as well when i brake and shift gears.
thx
I've got some rear end clunk as well. Happens after the car has sat for a while and i reverse her out of the garage. I can hear the rear clunk a little and especially when i go over speedbumps. Do you think i need to just replace those bushings and the toe links? I can hear some clunk as well when i brake and shift gears.
thx
11-17-04, 11:54 AM
#19
I would suggest ordering some very high strength bolts to use. Assuming the 3/8" bolt that Max mentioned is correct, you can try using these (part numbers from Mcmaster.com):
4.5" bolt (#91286A226)
5.5" bolt (#91286A232)
6.5" bolt (#91286A237)
Washer (#91117A222)
Nuts (#90499A031)
These are such high strength that you will have a hard time breaking them. The washers aer extra thick and wide. Should make the job go much faster. I haven't yet done the pillowball job, but this is what I would order to attempt it.
[edit] One other note: get some good grease and keep the threads lightly lubed. This will reduce the stress on the bolts and your arm.
Dave
4.5" bolt (#91286A226)
5.5" bolt (#91286A232)
6.5" bolt (#91286A237)
Washer (#91117A222)
Nuts (#90499A031)
These are such high strength that you will have a hard time breaking them. The washers aer extra thick and wide. Should make the job go much faster. I haven't yet done the pillowball job, but this is what I would order to attempt it.
[edit] One other note: get some good grease and keep the threads lightly lubed. This will reduce the stress on the bolts and your arm.
Dave
Last edited by dgeesaman; 11-17-04 at 12:00 PM.
11-17-04, 12:52 PM
#21
I tried this last weekend.
Got bolts/nuts/sockets together.
Got the caps/snap ring off, wiped grease out of the way.
And proceeded to CRANK on the damned wrench, as hard as I could, for over an hour, trying different sockets and checking my alignment. The bolt started to bend, the nut started to make ugly shearing metal sounds, the ratchet I tried at one point even started to make nasty sounds like I might be breaking off internal teeth....
and nothing.
The pillow ball that is IN there looks clean and shiny. The snap ring is out. I tried different size sockets on the pushing side, getting smaller as I tried, to make sure I wasn't hung up. I put on leather gloves so that I could push/pull(had wrench on one side, socket on the other) harder without hurting my hands(as much).
and nothing.
wtf? Is there some trick to this???? Is it really *that* f'ing hard? Or is my bushing just stuck in there unusually tightly? arg. I thought of using a long bar to increase my leverage, but once I heard parts starting to break, I didn't see the point, I was pushing as hard as the tools could take.
help? Max? anyone?
Got bolts/nuts/sockets together.
Got the caps/snap ring off, wiped grease out of the way.
And proceeded to CRANK on the damned wrench, as hard as I could, for over an hour, trying different sockets and checking my alignment. The bolt started to bend, the nut started to make ugly shearing metal sounds, the ratchet I tried at one point even started to make nasty sounds like I might be breaking off internal teeth....
and nothing.
The pillow ball that is IN there looks clean and shiny. The snap ring is out. I tried different size sockets on the pushing side, getting smaller as I tried, to make sure I wasn't hung up. I put on leather gloves so that I could push/pull(had wrench on one side, socket on the other) harder without hurting my hands(as much).
and nothing.
wtf? Is there some trick to this???? Is it really *that* f'ing hard? Or is my bushing just stuck in there unusually tightly? arg. I thought of using a long bar to increase my leverage, but once I heard parts starting to break, I didn't see the point, I was pushing as hard as the tools could take.
help? Max? anyone?
11-17-04, 01:20 PM
#23
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Addict,
If you're having such a hard time, I would reccomend just taking it to any auto mechainc and have them press out/in the bushings. It only takes the a few minutes if you bring the parts out of the car. It should only cost maybe $20 - $40, depending on how much of a dick they are. I personally wouldn't risk breaking fragile aluminium suspension parts.
If you're having such a hard time, I would reccomend just taking it to any auto mechainc and have them press out/in the bushings. It only takes the a few minutes if you bring the parts out of the car. It should only cost maybe $20 - $40, depending on how much of a dick they are. I personally wouldn't risk breaking fragile aluminium suspension parts.
