I know it's been discused before but I couldn't find any pictures and all I read was sugestions of finding used outboard motor plastic tanks. There is actually a new boat company that makes 2-stroke engines but forgot their name. Anyhow, i'm shure it would be enclosed now adays.

So I was looking at using a Cusco oil catch tank which has the pastic tube on the side to see the level. I thought of welding on the radiator filler neck to make it easy to fill. Maybe RE-Speed could start making something like that?

Ok, well it needs to be mounted higher then the pump as it works with gravity. The version for our cars is the lectric one. There is also an optional adjuster plate with markings and a an adjustment lock to help dial in the desired amount of flow.

I spoke with the gentleman that makes then. He was very friendly and helpfull. Has a very strong German accent but you can still easily understand him.

There has to be a few pople that have gotten this to work. Could you please post pics of your setup with the tank. Also what kind of tank, how often do you fill it, where you mounted it, was the install difficult, etc?

http://rotaryaviation.com/oil_inject...p_adaptors.htm

 

I can only remember a handful of people who have done this on the forum. One person didn't use Rotary Aviation's adapter, they did their own. The one who has had pictures posted showing theirs is "rotorbrain".

 

OK, did a search for him but none of the pictures worked. Sounds like he used an oil catch can though but he mounted it where the air pump would be and I want to keep my air pump.

 

I am setting up such a system on my 2nd gen project. It uses the later electric OMP almost identical to the FD. I modified my OMP to draw oil from an outside source instead of the front cover/crankcase. I basically picked a good spot to drill a small hole, threaded it, and used a plastic vacuum nipple which would seal tightly in the threads. But before I inserted the nipple, I used jb stick weld to form a 'wall" to block the passage at the front cover, while still allowing the oil from my new fitting to run down into the OMP's passages. I used a small screwdriver through my drilled hole to be sure that a pathway remained clear for the new oil supply to flow through, rather than packing the whole passage with jb weld. Once I was satisfied, I inserted the nipple. Once the jb weld hardened, I drew a vacuum on the nipple to be sure there were no leaks in my new passage.

Then I simply ran a long hose up to the firewall where I had mounted my bottle. I used the FC's "subzero start assist fluid" bottle (don't ask, it was a bad idea on mazda's part and later discontinued), which came on 86-mid 90 models (and some 1gens). Its a small bottle about 3x6x3 and is the perfect size and location for a 2 cycle reservoir. It already has a hole at the bottom where an electric motor was used so I just pulled that out and inserted a brass hose nipple, plugged my OMP hose into it, and I was done.

The benefits of doing it this way are 1) time (not having to deal with ordering the part and waiting for it) 2) cost (not having to pay for the adaptor) and 3) space (not having to worry about the OMP clearing the turbo/oil drain pipe/etc.)

 

 

Very creative. I'm not shure i'd be comfy with the jb weld but please repost long term use when you take it off to check on it. Nice find and use of the bottle. I wonder if it's still available with mounting hardware from Mazda?

 

I found this link off of the rx8club:

http://www.turborenesis.com/OMPinstall.html

The guy also makes an adaptor for our 3rd gens.

 

If you have an FD, there is precious little room for a tank. I am in process of making my tank better. I will post some pic's soon.

https://www.rx7club.com/rotary-car-performance-77/diy-2-stroke-mop-write-up-pics-372329/

https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/mod-omp-2-cycle-oil-injection-585049/

https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/anyone-using-rotary-aviation-mop-adaptor-534079/

Terry7

 

Second from left to right picture look left rear, a tank I bought and thought I could use. Problem was I purchased it when the engine was out. It wouldn't fit anywhere. Two choices get a new tank, relocate or reduce battery size. I got a new tank. Latter I had to shorten the tank. I will get at least three maybe four tanks of gas to one tank of oil.

 

Look for a suitable tank to mount in the front reinforcement, that is one of the best places to put it while giving capacity and still keeping decent head pressure from the tank and not further cluttering the bay with more crap.

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...9&page=2&pp=15

 

^ very nice! Is that a Greddy oil catch can with an oil cap welded on?

 

That is Phils tank, mine is at the bottom of that thread.

These are pics of mine

The last pic is the slosh box and oil level sensor housing, so absolutely no bubbles get caught in the feed lines.

 

ok , now question , say you do all this , fab a tank mount it and all , do you still have to use the electric motor ?
i mean if you have a stand alone that does not control the omp , can you use just this setup or do you have to use the omp too? or is there a way around this ?

 

The motor on the OMP is not for pumping purposes on the FD OMP, it is a stepper motor that is used to gauge the amount of oil distributed to the injectors based on loading circumstances.

 

A free cookie for the first one to spot my oil tank.





Paul

 

Ok but what would happen if you left it unplugged , reason beeing i am using a EMS that does not have OMP controlling , and i am getting a bit tired of the whole pre-mix thing

 

Your on your own there bud, that link I posted shows the OMP in some detail, and IMO it will not work very well left in a constant state.

I guess you could force it to full on, but why?

Which fuel management system are you using?

 

I am using the microtech ltx12, which doesn`t control OMP
I am lookind into this ,not because i dont believe in pre-mix , but because it is a bit of a pain
I was thinking that this adapter plus adjuster , with a reservoir would be the answer , and maybe adjust the omp itself to meter slightly more than it would normal ( i would prefer to be over-oiled then under)
but then again i know the omp has a stepper motor that adjust according to load TP etc
but could this work?

 

The Haltech E11 has a stepper motor control as do most of the Motec's which is the route I'm taking. I believe Richard Sohn has an adapter that would allow you to run a mechaniacal S4 OMP on the FD front cover. Then a little fabbing and a bike brake cable tied into the throttle and you would have variable control.

 

forgot to mention i have a 20B

 

I still think the Motec would be able to control the 6 injectors/ignition and still have enough left over for an electric OMP. I doubt the Haltech will.

 

IF you want to use an OMP but have no means to control it electronically, then use one of the rod-actuated mechanical versions from the 88 and earlier cars. The bolt pattern is different, so the adaptor/front cover would need to be redrilled, but otherwise the mating surface, drive gear, and holes all line up the same. Then you simply fab a holder on your throttle linkage that pulls on the rod when you open the throttle. You could even get an 88- throttle body and pull the metal holder off of the linkage and adapt it to fit your current one.

 

Titanium , i already have the microtech , my car is running ,
Rotary resurection , is it posiblle to make the manual unit work for the 20B ?

 

I dont see why not...its just a matter of drilling and tapping a hole or 2 for mounting. the 20b OMP seems to be about the same as the 89-95 2-rotor version. As i said, the bolt pattern for the earlier mechanical OMP is different, but the drive and oil passage holes are the same.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MAZDA...spagenameZWD1V

 

but the mechanical unit has 2 outputs for 2 rotors , i need 3 outputs for 3 rotors , how do i do that ?