Scrub

iTrader: (25)

rotarypower, I drive my car like that. It's not pictures from the buildup, thats how it sits today. I do have plenty more pictures of the engine bay, but it's not my favorite part of the car yet. I'm having some parts powder coated like the pulleys and the strut bar mounts.

I had to modify the heat shield on the MOP for the compressor housing of the turbo to fit properly.
-Dan

Herblenny

iTrader: (13)

Ahh... Maybe you have a single turbo.

I had to get the clip turned so that I could mate the oil lines for my BNR stage 3s.




polished reserve tank

GARCO MOTORWORKS

I had to reclock the electric part of the OMP to get the wires clear of the turbos ( super size BNR s ) I think I reclocked Phils as well .The oil tank should be above the OMP as it is gravity feed to the OMP .

tom.jelly

I've got a similar setup, but as I recall I re-brazed the oil drain line so the flange is turned to a different position so it doesn't interfere with the connector. I'm using a super size race master cylinder reservior from AP, but it is too small at only 12oz. so I have to check it too often. I think the ideal size would be about 1 to 1.5 qt. I will fab an aluminum tank with a level sensor when I get a tig machine.

Gadd

Hmm.. Define "reclock". Can you just remove the stepper motor and rotate it 180 deg?

tom.jelly

Thats what he means by reclock, remove it and turn it like the hands go round on a clock. It was a long time ago, I think I remember now- I didn't want to have to extend the wires for the OMP- I don't think you can rotate it to a different position unless you extend the wires. I can't remember for sure but either the bolt pattern was such that even if I did turn the pump it would interfere with something, can't remember what. In any case I ended up rotating the flange at the mating surface for the oil line where the straight part comes off the block and attaches to the ribbed tube.

GARCO MOTORWORKS

The motor has 3 screws and they are not equally spaced so drilling and tapping is needed , as well as some work to the inside of the stepper motor . The wires do not need any work .

Gadd

Ahh.. Thanks. Care to share what needs to be done to the stepper motor? Doesn't just push a shaft in the pump? I'm planning on getting the RA adaptor and setting up the pump like that soon.

rotarypower101

iTrader: (1)

Well I took the time to see if my tank was going to work for me, sadly it will not work as well as I had hoped. Fortunately it was only 10 bucks to check.


New plan...
So I am going to make a custom tank that will let me retain the stock reinforcement.


It looks like I can get a hold of some 4”x4” square tubing that will fit nicly under the reinforcment, without modification.

Plus new capacity will be ~1.9 gallons. I plan on using an extra stock oil pan level sensor I have and running the filler tube between the small space inbetween the front bumper and the front bulkhead.


The problem I have run into is I cant seem to locate a standard oil filler bung with the proper standard thread. Such as the one found on the oil filler neck?

The closest I have found is this, but not std threads.
http://www.billetspecialties.com/it...scid=85&pid=204

Anyone know where to get a standard sized and threaded aluminum oil filler bung?

Also does anyone know what the thread standard is for standard oil filler bungs would be?

If I could find this info I am quite certain I could make one for a few bucks.

rotarypower101

iTrader: (1)

I noticed this topic came up again, and I had not updated my thread, so here are pics of the tank system I devised and built. HTH

Speedworks

any body got this system on non seq stock turbo's? I want to go witht the electric PCV adaptor as well.

Tim Benton

iTrader: (1)

If you have the PFC, you can control the amount injected via OMP. The stock system injects depending on load, rpm, etc and varies the amount so it's not a fixed amount across the rpm/load range. The problem with the stock system, like we've known about since they went with an electronic O.M. system is that it's not enough and over time, the engine loses it's ability to idle due to seal wear. That's threads where someone says it dies as they pull up to a red light or turning at slow speeds. Unless you have some way of controlling the amount the stock OMP injects, then you still need to premix since it's still using the stock programming even if you have the RA tank attached.

Tim

mono4lamar

iTrader: (32)

which kit did you guys purchase... the manual or electronic?

Speedworks

For the FD, PCV recommends the electronic one.

is there a scale to follow when modding the engine when it comes to determining the amount of oil injected? (using a PFC)

sevensheaven

iTrader: (1)

Tim
Good info! I agree that exactly about what you said, but I haven't read it the way you put it. I just rebuilt my engine a few months back. I didn't find any blatant evidence to why my compression was low. This was my first rebuild and I went to great lengths to study the issue. Bought more than one rebuild video, read everything I could find. I came to the realization that my seals must have been worn or I had weak springs somewhere, apex or side seals. My engine had low carbon build up so I felt it wasn't a sticking side seal. I will be much more able to notice things on my next rebuild, but I hope it is a long time down the road. My question is I now run a modified pump with a tank. I run premium Mercury outboard injector oil. I have a quart tank that goes down to around half after three full tanks of gas. I don't feel like its under oiled. In fact for a while I felt it might be over oiled. I started to wonder how much the oil weight might be a factor going from motor oil to 2 stroke injector oil, which seems lighter, but I have no scientific way to tell. If it is a lighter weight wouldn’t it pass though the injection system with more flow than 10W 40? Bottom line I think the injector oil is better, burns better lubes better. I feel this will out way the short comings of the MOP. Time will tell! Your thoughts?