Quick stupid spark plug question...
Buy the bur9eq or -eqp(platinum variant)
The 9 heat range will go in ALL plug holes.
If you bought the stock heat range plugs then all you have to do is match up the letter on the plugs. Each plug will have either an L or T signifying leading or trailing.
On the housings next to each plug hole has the corresponding letter. Just match up the L plugs to the same L plug hole on the housings and the same for the T plugs.
If you have the bur9eq or eqp then it doesnt matter which plug hole they go into because these are considered a reliability mod as all street driven fds have these plugs.
Just make sure you buy a packet of thead sealant to put on the plugs, its only like $.99 and will go a long way when you need to remove the plugs. The last thing any of us want is to cross thread the plug holes or have the plug seize and risk breaking the plug in the hole and have to pupl the motor and disassemble the block and either replace the housing(s) or hire a machinist to remove and repair
The 9 heat range will go in ALL plug holes.
If you bought the stock heat range plugs then all you have to do is match up the letter on the plugs. Each plug will have either an L or T signifying leading or trailing.
On the housings next to each plug hole has the corresponding letter. Just match up the L plugs to the same L plug hole on the housings and the same for the T plugs.
If you have the bur9eq or eqp then it doesnt matter which plug hole they go into because these are considered a reliability mod as all street driven fds have these plugs.
Just make sure you buy a packet of thead sealant to put on the plugs, its only like $.99 and will go a long way when you need to remove the plugs. The last thing any of us want is to cross thread the plug holes or have the plug seize and risk breaking the plug in the hole and have to pupl the motor and disassemble the block and either replace the housing(s) or hire a machinist to remove and repair
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Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 30,800
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From: FL-->NJ/NYC again!
Make sure you get the plug wires correct, mixing them up can lead to a hurt engine.
Leading coil is located in the middle, both those wires go to the bottom plugs. Rear trailing is located on the right (towards the rear of the car) and front trailing towards to the left (front).
Leading coil is located in the middle, both those wires go to the bottom plugs. Rear trailing is located on the right (towards the rear of the car) and front trailing towards to the left (front).
Little know fact, if throw your RX7 spark plugs up in the air and let them land on a soft surface (I use a old carpet sample) depending on where they land they will be able to predict the future.
I used this link and changed everything perfectly
http://robrobinette.com/sparkplug_wires.htm
Good luck
http://robrobinette.com/sparkplug_wires.htm
Good luck
o yea i am making sure I have everything correct before I put all back together haha
Make sure you get the plug wires correct, mixing them up can lead to a hurt engine.
Leading coil is located in the middle, both those wires go to the bottom plugs. Rear trailing is located on the right (towards the rear of the car) and front trailing towards to the left (front).
Leading coil is located in the middle, both those wires go to the bottom plugs. Rear trailing is located on the right (towards the rear of the car) and front trailing towards to the left (front).
Where did it snap? NGK plugs are pretty robust generally.
If it just cracked at the ceramic, the nut should still be attached to the threads. Happened to me while doing plugs on my truck, actually 2 broke off when removing the old ones. It's usually not a big deal, you'd have to **** something up bad to break the nut off the threads
If it just cracked at the ceramic, the nut should still be attached to the threads. Happened to me while doing plugs on my truck, actually 2 broke off when removing the old ones. It's usually not a big deal, you'd have to **** something up bad to break the nut off the threads
yea... it broke right after the treads...
Where did it snap? NGK plugs are pretty robust generally.
If it just cracked at the ceramic, the nut should still be attached to the threads. Happened to me while doing plugs on my truck, actually 2 broke off when removing the old ones. It's usually not a big deal, you'd have to **** something up bad to break the nut off the threads
If it just cracked at the ceramic, the nut should still be attached to the threads. Happened to me while doing plugs on my truck, actually 2 broke off when removing the old ones. It's usually not a big deal, you'd have to **** something up bad to break the nut off the threads
Dang.... that wasn't the plugs fault.
Top: trailing, Lower: leading, lefty: loosey, Righty: tighty
Sorry to hear your troubles, that does suck..
That's a sharp lookin car you have He-man. I like the wheels with that color.
Top: trailing, Lower: leading, lefty: loosey, Righty: tighty
Sorry to hear your troubles, that does suck..
That's a sharp lookin car you have He-man. I like the wheels with that color.
thank you but yet it must have been a faulty plug because I was using a small wrench and I know im not that strong to bust a plug like that...
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 30,800
Likes: 646
From: FL-->NJ/NYC again!
You probably don't want to hear it, but next time consider bringing your FD to a reputable rotary shop in the area.
um please dont act like I dont know anything now... it was a faulty warped plug and I am getting my money back for them now...
Not the plug's fault, you were doing something pretty damn wrong to break one. I've probably installed, oh, 500 spark plugs in rotary engines by this point and have yet to break one, or even come close to it.
You probably don't want to hear it, but next time consider bringing your FD to a reputable rotary shop in the area.
You probably don't want to hear it, but next time consider bringing your FD to a reputable rotary shop in the area.
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