my car has the bolt ons and a new reman thats 2 years old and has 6500 miles on it and im pretty sure it just popped tonight. does mazdas warranty still cover that or is it only for one year? and if its still under warranty would i have to convert it back to stock to get them to make good on the warranty
tia bob

 

hey,

before u jump to conclusions about blowing your motor check it out first, and ask for our help.

First, give us some symptoms so we can diagnose your problem.

Second, list your mods,

Third, what were u doing when you got the idea it was blown?

With the reman, the warrenty is only over one year or 10k miles if im not mistaken, and even then, with your mods on there, you would have to take them off first for them to even CONSIDER giving u a new engine.

Where did u get the reman from? If u got it from a local dealer, then you could have gotten a poorly made engine.

But because it lasted 6500, it makes me think that other forces were at play to get your engine to pop which is why I asked for more info.

 

Its a 1 year warrenty if I am not mistaken.

 

I think it is 12/12 warranty.

I'd think with that low of mileage your mods popped the motor rather than the reman being bad.

I notice how some people "protect" certain engine builders reps while on others everyone jumps on the bandwagon to discredit them. This holds true with remans, many people love to jump on the bandwagon of them being crappy motors. Every builder builds a crappy motor now and then. Mazda builds more than anyone, if the failure rate is the same for all builders, Mazda will have the highest number of failures even if the percentage is the same.

Sorry for the rant...

 

well ive got intake blitzfmic dp cb and pfc. so last night i was driving home coming from santa cruz and before i even hit the twistys on 17 goin up this hill its started sounding different and then in a matter of maybe 10 sec it sounded really bad and lost all power and i coasted to the side of the road. and i waited a while and it wouldnt start back up

 

i havnt had the mp on since the new engine im using the stock cat

 

I would have to say that i was probably a bad reman. I badly rebuilt engine will not last. I've seen remans that were all new and i've see some that should never have been put back together. My friends reman lasted for 1 month before the coolant seals went. Remans suck.

 

Since you're in the Bay Area, take it to Ivan. Have him check it out for you. Good luck!!

 

i need a diagnosis as well...
Driving home friday night (last week) cool night, driving the speed limit, long straight road...so I goosed it, pulled, made a horrible sound, engine sounded like it was chewing on marbles, a flub flub flub sound, pulled the car over, it died, couldn't start it, made choking/backfiring.
Story of the car:
Just installed t-78 (500 miles previously) has stock engine core 68k miles on it, downpipe, high flow cat, blitz nurspec, 750cc primary, 1620cc secondary, FPR set at 45lbs no vacuum. PFC ecu, tuned (by myself) to AFRs of 11's in lower N and P cells, around 0-5 lbs boost it is at about 10.5 afr, and higher boost is about 9.5 afr. I have datalogit, WBo2 and EGT. EGT was at about 900F, I wasn't datalogging at the time. it is the R1 model with dual oil coolers, I have a Koyo Radiator, Greddy 3row fmic, removed emissions...
I had drove the car cautiously while checking all the WB readings, (first 300 miles) I didn't get on the boost until about 350 miles, and then only cautiously. The boost controller (Profec B) was turned all the way down, so no higher than 10psi, which was consistant with what my gauge was showing. I didn't notice what boost was at when the engine made the horrible sound...but it never seemed to spike before, and I had goosed it before...
The car was warmed up. I was running 93 octane. 20-50 Castol GTX oil...
When I pulled it over, the only thing I found (perhaps the cause) the vacuum line that runs from the UIM to the profec B had popped off...is this the source of my problems?
I tried starting it again and watched the boost gauge, it sat at zero...will the boost gauge be able to read vacuum during cranking?
What is the next step? Compression test?
-D