Herblenny

iTrader: (13)

O.k.. I have PFC, and i feel like I'm running hot (i hit 105 standing and 115 C after sitting and started... I also have fluidyne radiator..

I went to check the fans with AC on and only one of the fan is turning.. the passenger side fan..

Also, since my pfc, my ac is tempermental.. I can't tell if my ac fan is kicking on or my radiator fan is kicking on.. Or is the driver side fan just kicked it..

I tried to search.. but ton of post and after going thru 10 or so, I say just post it..

If someone could tell me I would greatly appreciated!

PHIL

poss

iTrader: (5)

not sure if I understand exactly what you are asking, but my fans do not run independently (both either on or off). I assume that's how they are supposed to run in a stock configuration.

suprfast

let me chime in since i just finished up on spending 176 dollars on a new fan motor. the passanger fan is the NORMAL engine fan and the driver is the AC fan. for some reason the AC fan has a tendecy to go bad. i pulled it all apart took out my ghetto insulation around the radiator(i can almost guarantee that this is why you are running hot) and replaced my old fan motor with a new one, and replaced the five blade with a four blade. the bearings are shot on the motor which was my reasoning for replacing it. im going to try and take it apart and see if it can be rebuilt. cant ruin garbage now can we.
really watch your temps and driving around. that is just too damn high. go to home depot and buy some 1" copper piping foam(stuff you see around water heaters), i was told its called stirofoam(sp) spaghetti. go to the water heater section and you will know what im talking about. now open your hood and look at your radiator from the opening where the fog lights are. if you see light then you have passages that air will escape to instead of going through the radiator(air travels the path of least resistance). start cutting strips that are a hair longer then the area you will be putting the foam into. ram it in the SLOT and continue till the light can not be seen from the front opening. take your car out for a test drive and enjoy watching water temps sit around 180-195 degrees(that was around town and my fans on). good luck, PM me if you have questions.
kris

jspecracer7

huh?

Fans have 3 settings: Off, low and high.

They both turn on at the same time. They both turn off at the same time. They do NOT turn on one at a time.

Herblenny

iTrader: (13)

Interesting.. Hmm.. I drove my car last night after changing my radiator fluid.. and it ran 86-88 on highway.. then I got to work.. idled and it went up to 96-98 C.. And it was a cool night..

This morning I checked the driverside fan and it was stuck!!! i can't even turn it.. i must done somethine when I replaced my IC back to stock IC.. i'm going to go home tonight and check it and make sure.. luckily, I have already purchased a set of fans.. hope the new fans also works..

Thanks guys!! Also, can you tell me how to do the mod for 10 min fan mod after shutting the car off??

spurvo

Ummm.. maybe it's US cars, but we have three fan speed setting. Low, medium and high. The Low setting occurs at 221F unless the lights are on, OR the heater fan is set to three or four, OR the rear window defrost is on, at which point the fans turn on low speed at 210F. The fans will come on to medium if the thermoswitch gets switched, which is at 226F (in other words, the low setting was already on, and it wasn't enough, so the thermoswitch acts as backup). Lastly, all fan speeds are increased by one if the AC is turned on (AC switch depressed, the temp setting in the cool range, and the blower fan turned on), so if temp is below 221F (unless the lights are on, etc.), the fans come on low with AC on, medium if temp is above the 221F (or 210F with an electical load) mark, and high if AC is on and engine temp is over 226F.

There was an additional recall done on the cooling system whereby an additional set of sensing components was added behind the ECU. If the engine runs at higher than 226F (thermoswitch switched) for two minutes before shutting off the engine, the fans will stay on low for ten minutes after shutoff. To test the function is working properly, Mazda placed a blade style connector connected to a black wire in the vicinity of the ECU. Sometimes it is behind the ECU, sometimes between the ECU and the firewall, sometimes under, you get the idea. If you ground that wire, the fans should come on to the low speed. You can therefore attach a switch to that wire and use this as the cheap 10 minute fan mod. Note that if you ground the wire continuously for two or more minutes before shutting off the car, the fans will run for ten minutes after. You can decide if this is a good idea or not.

More: BOTH fans should run at all speeds! If not, something is wrong, or someone had fiddled with the stock system.

Herblenny

iTrader: (13)

Spurvo,

Thank you so much.. that's exactly what I needed to know.. and thanks for putting it in understanding formate..

One question.. Do you know what that wire is?? I also don't know if I got that recall done on my car.. I know I need to get two recalls.. but never got it done.. do you know who I need to call and what wire i need to look for??

I know for fact that my driverside fan is stuck.. I rarely drive my car.. except recently.. and only reason i saw this is because of my PFC.. thank god for PFC.. one of the best inverstment I made..

Thanks again for your response.

PHILIP SOHN

spurvo

Useable temp reading in this car is a complete neccesity, I think!

Ummm.. the PFC replaces the stock ECU right? (I'm dumb about the ECU situation, so please forgive!) If so, the recall add-on control unit might be gone as well, so no little wire to perform the simple version of the fan mod. Further, the addressable ECU allows you to turn on the fans whenever you want (temperature wise), right? If the stock ECU is just modified by the PFC, then read on... (this was placed here by me realizing I'm too stupid to not remember what type of ECU the PFC is!)

Anyway, If you pull the kick panel in the passenger footwell, you see the large silver box, which is of course the ECU. If you remove the two 10mm bolts on the bottom and the one 10mm bolt to the upper right of the ECU (as you look straight at the box), you can pull the ECU toward you. Look to see if there is a small-ish black box bolted to the backside of the ECU. If so, there should be a black wire that runs from the black box for 6 inches or so, and then terminates in a blade connector with shroud (I simply CANNOT recall if it's male or female!). If no black box, you should try and get the recall done. Further, if you drive with just the parking lights on, you will trigger the fans to come on sooner as I described above, which will help, but ultimately you have to have both fans running. The engine will cook itself right to death otherwise, as the radiator does not have the capacity to cool the engine all by itself... SOME airflow is required.

Lastly, and I may be wrong on this, but I seem to recall there is an issue with getting AC to run properly with the PFC. Is this right? Might look over the ECU section to be sure...

Herblenny

iTrader: (13)

Spurvo,

Once again.. Thank You!!

You have answered so many questions that I had about this recall thing.. i can't seem to get a clear answer until you.. Once again Thanks!

I do remember removing my ECU and seeing this black box behind my ECU.. Its still there.. I guess all I need to do is connect the end wire and attatch a switch to a ground??

second, to answer your question about the AC with PFC, you are correct.. few of the PFC owners did experience AC problems.. i did in the beginning and it worked.. now it doesn;t.. i'm guessing its because something might of shorten out when the fan got stuck.. But i could be wrong about this.. Tonight, i'm taking my IC and all to check to make sure my fan motor is not blown.. I'm hoping my IC duct or something is hitting the fan..

Also, with datalogic and PFC, you could turn down the temp so that the ffan will kick in earlier.. my goal right now is to relocated the battery and put a larger capacity/reserve battery and do this 10 minute cool down mod with turbo timer coming on for 2+ minutes so that fan will remain on for 10 minutes.. I hope this works..

Any other info would greatly appreciated!

PHILIP SOHN

spurvo

Oooh.. all warm and fuzzy! Glad I could actually HELP someone!

I have attached a fans post recall pic to this reply. It shows that you should be triggering fan relay #3 with grounding the "check connector", which is the spade connector. Grounding this circuit shooouuuld give you low speed, even with the PFC operating the other relay circuits.

Glad to have been of any assistence!

Herblenny

iTrader: (13)

WOW.. Thank you so much for helping me out..

I'm going to install the new fans and see how it works..

Thanks again for your help..

PHILIP SOHN