Quick, Need DP help
#1
Avoid Fuego Racing
Thread Starter
Quick, Need DP help
Well I am installing the DP like I said. I have the bottom 2 studs out (came out VERY easy) but can't get the heat sheild off. Do you reuse the heat sheild, or can I bend it to hell getting it out?
#2
0-rotor-0-turbo-0-fd
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: NYC
Posts: 1,640
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I guess you can bend it and even rip it off, I did it when I installed my DP, I never put it back!
As for the bottom DP studs they should come off, not that easy though.
As for the bottom DP studs they should come off, not that easy though.
#6
The Power of 1.3
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Shrewsbury, Massachusetts
Posts: 2,837
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Do you have a second person helping? What I did was I was under the car, and my helper and I both aligned the wrench on that top rear stud (cus you just CANT see it). We basically did it by feel. Put a finger on the stud, and hold it there while your friend lowers the wrench down to you, handle down. Slip it on, and start loosening.
Trending Topics
#8
Avoid Fuego Racing
Thread Starter
Ok, I can't get the top back stud/nut off
The DP is kicking my ***. The other three studs came right out, np. The top rear one is impossible. I even went and bought a deep 14mm socket. But it is SOOOOOOOO hard to tun. I am scared to break it off. The other 3 came off very easily, and this one is very hard to turn.
#10
You shouldn't need a deep socket. You will need an extension for your socket however to get to the top
rear. I just poked around from above with the socket til I landed on the nut. Assuming you removed the ABS shield it shouldn't be a problem.
rear. I just poked around from above with the socket til I landed on the nut. Assuming you removed the ABS shield it shouldn't be a problem.
#11
Full Member
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Charleston, WV, USA
Posts: 213
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Str8down, I understand your frustration, but you have to remember, it is obviously possible to do the job so you just have to focus.
I have been there. The first time I did the pre-cat removal it took me about 8 hours of figuring, trying and then buying the right tools before I could get it out. I refused to be beaten by a car.
Obviously, you need the right tools and you just need a ton of patience. The car has to be high enough and you have to be able to move the bolts with the tool on them.
Depending on your arms, hands, the angle you work and tons of other variables you may need deep sockets, a "wiggle" ratchet extension or something else.
I have always done all the bolts from the bottom and it just takes a good bit of patience.
Zullo says he did it from the top but, damn, I never could get any access from the top. He (and you) may have smaller hands/arms.
Good luck with it. Also, I hope you soaked the bolts in something like PB Blaster for at least a few hours.
I have been there. The first time I did the pre-cat removal it took me about 8 hours of figuring, trying and then buying the right tools before I could get it out. I refused to be beaten by a car.
Obviously, you need the right tools and you just need a ton of patience. The car has to be high enough and you have to be able to move the bolts with the tool on them.
Depending on your arms, hands, the angle you work and tons of other variables you may need deep sockets, a "wiggle" ratchet extension or something else.
I have always done all the bolts from the bottom and it just takes a good bit of patience.
Zullo says he did it from the top but, damn, I never could get any access from the top. He (and you) may have smaller hands/arms.
Good luck with it. Also, I hope you soaked the bolts in something like PB Blaster for at least a few hours.
#13
Cheap Bastard
iTrader: (2)
Are you sure the manifold is stripped?
Did you remove the rear turbo-to-ypipe piping (as I suggested). If you didn't, do it now so that you can get a better look at the manifold.
I would be surprised if it truly is stripped. If it is, maybe you can run a tap thru it to clean it up.
Did you remove the rear turbo-to-ypipe piping (as I suggested). If you didn't, do it now so that you can get a better look at the manifold.
I would be surprised if it truly is stripped. If it is, maybe you can run a tap thru it to clean it up.
#16
PV = nRT
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: New Zealand (was California)
Posts: 2,250
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
str8, you're going to be fine. Most likely it's just the outside that is stripped and that is also why the tap isn't going back in correctly. Put the DP in and install that stud (with the stripped outer fitting) first. That way you don't waste time on the other ones until you're sure it's secure.
#17
Avoid Fuego Racing
Thread Starter
Yeah, I already ruined it with the tap thoguh. It's cross threaded. And I can get enough tourque on the tap to drive it all the way in cross threaded, or I would jsut do that and use the cross threaded threads. So I can't get a bolt in now, at least not deep enough to close down on the pipe. Will it be ok with 3 bolts and 1 halfass bolt? I will just get a shorter bolt for the messed up one, and it will not have to go as deep. But it also won't have as much holding power. Do you guys think it will be ok like this? I really hate doing things imperfect.
#18
Cheap Bastard
iTrader: (2)
3 bolts won't be good enough. You will wind up with an exhaust leak. I would bolt up the 3 "good" holes first. Get them tight, then put a bolt in the bad hole. Tighten as much as you can without stripping it.
Hopefully that will be good enough.
Oh yeah, you are tired and bound to screw things up if you continue. Give yourself a break, and finish it tomorrow.
Hopefully that will be good enough.
Oh yeah, you are tired and bound to screw things up if you continue. Give yourself a break, and finish it tomorrow.
#19
don't race, don't need to
I kinda ran into this myself when I did my DP. The Pettit kit suggested to use their cap screw for the top left position (the hard one). I tried it and sure enough cross threaded the thing. I was able to get the thing to snug down using a couple thick washers under the head of the bolt, but it always leaked anyways. When I repoped the engine, I tapped the manifold hole and installed a shorter than stock stud (actually one of the ones that are used to mount the turbos to the EX manifold.). Worked great, and I was able to get the DP over it after the engine was back in. If you want to do it "right", admit that this job just got harder, you WON'T be driving it on Monday, pull the Y-pipe and rear turbo intake and the ABS heat sheild (always a fun project in itself!), and tap the thing squarely. If it JUST WON'T tap, then you would pull the turbos, drill the hole, tap it with a larger tap and install a helicoil. That's the "right" way to do it, but is an UGLY pain in the ***, unless you have access to a right angle bend drill. Sorry you are battling this. Seems every one in three DP installs goes awry in some fashion if the forum is to be used as a judge of things.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
eplusz
General Rotary Tech Support
15
10-07-15 04:04 PM
Adaptronic MTX-L to adaptronic question
TeamRuffRacing
Adaptronic Engine Mgmt - AUS
1
09-30-15 08:13 PM