question 1:
am i the only one with a FD that does this?
also, i notice when i turn on my headlights/headlamps the odometer numbers dim a little.

question 2:
my car is having a hard time starting. recently in december my car would crank but not start. had to get new relays etc. Now when i turn the key i have to tap the accelerator to get the car to start.

where is this problem coming from? battery? spark plugs? alternator?

thanks alot

 

^

 

Sounds like you might need a new alternator.. The higher idle and a little dimming is normal, but I've never had to tap the alternator..

 

Higher idle and odometer dimming are normal. The idle is higher because it puts the computer into "increased electrical load" mode which raises the idle, presumably to supply more current to the alternator. The odometer dims because, presumably, if the lights are on, its dark outside. Most cars do this.

The hard start problem I'm not sure about. Is it hard to start when hot or cold or both equally? There was a hot start TSB but it only applied to automatics. Difficulty with hot starts can also be a sign of low compression or an electrical problem.

 

its hard to start either hot or cold.

i do have an automatic, and what does TSB stand for?

the car has never had a problem starting until i replaced the relays and ecu. it would crank and start with a turn of the key.

 

^

 

buy a new battery

 

TSB = Technical Service Bulletin. Search on the web for RX-7 Technical Service Bulletins and you should be able to find it. Its basically a list of common problems and how to solve them. Mazda puts them out for dealers to aid in repairs.

 

So, palumbo, exactly how many of your posts are ^'s?

That sort of slight interior light dimming happens on most cars, in general. The current draw of the lights causes a bit of a voltage drop from the electrical system. You may notice they get brighter when you rev the engine a bit.

How much does the idle go up? It should only be a few hundred RPM.

This might be related to the difficult starting.

When you "tap" the gas, is it just a quick jab while it's cranking, or do you have to hold it while it's cranking? Without the "tap" does it attempt start to combust/sputter at all?

Anyhow, it could be a number of things, but I'm wondering about your idle speed valve...

 

the idle goes up by maybe 300-500. but mainly it makes it more stable then with the lights off.

when its cranking, i "quickly jab" the gas and it starts. i dont have to hold the gas down or nothing.

without the tap it does crank, but never turns over

 

Holy ****.. Sorry about my first reply... lol I thought you said you had to tap your ALTERNATOR... Not accelerator. Man, I'm an idiot!! Maybe you just have to adjust your throttle cable? Just an idea, not sure if it would help..

 

Don't worry, I'm not going to tease you about the ^'s anymore.

When you say "more stable", are you implying the high idle (lights on) is rough somehow? Aside from the higher idle, it should still be very smooth.

Gathering from the quick jab tecnique I'm wondering, have you checked your TPS (throttle position sensor)? If the ECU things you're at WOT (even though you don't even have your foot on the gas), it will keep from firing.