94Rx-7

iTrader: (2)

i had a friend do the non seq. conversion and he connected the 2nd actuator to the first. should he have not done that or what? should i plug up the 2nd one or should i just leave it connected to the first actuator?

Thanks
Alex T.

94Rx-7

iTrader: (2)

anyone have any idea of what i should do

Snook

iTrader: (12)

he connected the prespool actuator to the wastegate actuator?

that's wrong you don't use the prespool actuator at all.

It's very simple to hook up non seq there are only a few hoses

94Rx-7

iTrader: (2)

so disconnect the bottom actuator

Snook

iTrader: (12)

Here's how mine is set up

Added some notes to previous diagram by rikki

94Rx-7

iTrader: (2)

thanks that will help

BigIslandSevens

iTrader: (4)

soo you don't need any other solenoids than the wastegate control? Do you remove and put resistors in place? Then just cap ACV etc.. I am having problems with the stock seq. set-up and may end my frustration by going this route. What is the best site for the full rundown on how to complete this? I've searched but there's too much to read, just need a good site. One last question, what do you use to control boost? Just the stock pill, or fab something?

Snook

iTrader: (12)

yes you just need the wastegate and purge control solenoids. You can even not use the wg solenoid with a different boost control setup. I just kept them there didnt fool with resistors.

To control boost I use a manual ball and spring valve where it says put boost controller here in the pic.

There's really nothing to it. Just follow my edited diagram and take everything else thats not in the pic out and cap everything. Remember you have to take out the TCA and wire the door that's about it.

Good luck
-Snook

BigIslandSevens

iTrader: (4)

What about the pre spool door? I know it's not used do you wire it open as well? Is this possible to do with the stock ECU? He's got DP, CB, FMIC, intake already on the brink of an upgrade.

Snook

iTrader: (12)

pretty dumb to have all that on the stock ecu he's probably hitting fuel cut because of too high of an injector duty cycle

find the dont be a rikki thread and read through all the posts and it's simple. Search for non seq diagram

I'm not sure of the prespool door
I'm going back to sequential tommorrow after about 6 months of non seq

why would your friend want to go to non sequential?
Only good thing about it is it's simple to diagnose boost problems

BigIslandSevens

iTrader: (4)

rite! I have been chasing a boost problem for about a week. I'm close just frustrated and looking at all options. I agree it seems to be a bit much! Look at my other post " still 0 psi, heres what i found" It is a CCA / vac. associated problem. he's going to go single in a while anyways. I'm going to give the seq. another go at the troublshooting tomorrow before i go non-seq. if i can't figure it out.

Snook

iTrader: (12)

Are you talking about yourself or a friend or what? Im confused. Yeah if you have 0psi I'd do the non sequential lol! Anythings better than that. I hate working on this car.

Here's the info on wiring and welding:

The Turbo Pre-control gate should be welded open. The weld goes at the
base of the outside control arm, and should be welded good, not just
tacked. (preferably TIG welded, but a good wire feed is acceptable for
this)

The turbo control gate in the manifold has got to be removed and the hole
tapped for pipe threads, and a cast iron pipe plug installed.

To remove, take a cut off wheel, or a 4" disc grinder and cut the control
arm off at the base, then grind the welds off and remove the outside
washer, then from the inside tap out the sleave the flapper shaft rides
in, then the flapper valve and shaft will come out from the inside.
DO not even think about welding this one...do not leave it in there...it
absolutely has to come out!

BigIslandSevens

iTrader: (4)

It's my neighbors car.(he's 15!!! I know, I know lol) I am the mechanic(26) I have my own 94' with a turbonetics T70 big shaft. (previously T78) I am in the middle of the engine rebuild on mine. Sorry for the confusion. I'll pull the UIM and search for a kinked hose. It had a 10-5-5 pattern before all the work and sometimes kicks in(once per test drive) Thanks for the welding info, i've seen that site before.(Thimk i'll try the poormans way first and see if i like it!)