Under PSI

So I'm pulling my motor to replace the motor mounts, fix an oil pan leak and swap turbos.

It doesn't need a rebuild, but I figure it'll be easier then messing with it while still installed and give me a chance to do some much needed cleaning.

That said, what ELSE should I have on the to-do list?

Anything I should retorque? Anything I should replace? Anything I will have access to that is a good opportunity to do something to? =)


Please feel free to throw out ANY ideas you have.

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

Some suggestions:

* Re-torque Engine Studs
* Replace rear main seal

RENESISFD

iTrader: (13)

Metal LIM gasket if it has the old fiber one.

ken125

iTrader: (1)

Inspect or replace clutch and vacuum lines.

Sgtblue

iTrader: (16)

*Replace pilot bearing and seal, and rear main as mentioned.
*Consider re-surfacing flywheel
*Consider new clutch release (throw-out) bearing and maybe a clutch fork if it's original.
*If old or don't know if they've been replaced...new heater and fuel hoses. Especially turbo coolant hoses...way easier to change with the engine on a stand. None are very expensive.
*Consider new plugs, wires and maybe a coil harness. More expensive than hoses but not that bad.
*If you end up pulling the UIM for anything, I would consider silicone vacuum lines with a set of DaleClark's check-valves and having the injectors cleaned and flow-tested. Otherwise I'd leave them alone.

Under PSI

Aw man, you guys are great.

Rear Main Seal is happening - that was the other reason for pulling the motor. Re-torquing the studs is a must - good advice.

Clutch/bearings/FW was also on my radar.

OEM hoses and silicone rats nest will happen - I think I'm actually going simplified sequential since I really like the personality of the car with sequential twins. However, I'll have to look into the DaleClark check-valves.

Plugs and wires are in hand - along with a new fuel filter. You have a part number for the coil harness?

As for UIM and LIM - I'm moving to JDM on both so I'll be sure to check the gaskets.

Sgtblue

iTrader: (16)

So you're deleting emissions? Do you have a standalone ECU? If so, I'd properly delete double-throttle and AWS too.

Under PSI

Yep. Power FC.

All emissions is going out the window - on the kill list is: Air Pump, EGR, AWS, ACV & Double Throttle.

Project88Turbo

iTrader: (22)

If you are removing the oil pan, get the BANZAI oil pan brace so it will not leak.

Also, I would clean and paint under the hood while the engine is out. I did not do that while i had mine out and I regret it.

Vince

04G35S

iTrader: (10)

This is all great advise that I will be following. I never would have thought to re-torque the engine bolts.

djseven

iTrader: (56)

New fuel pulsation dampner, new wiring harness, new primary injectors/fuel rail diffusers and all new vacuum and coolant hoses.

About everything else that would go wrong is easy to get to even when the motor is in the car.

Johnny Kommavongsa

iTrader: (13)

Stuff that others haven't mentioned.

i would look into doing a fuel pulsation dampner delete. Banzai has a nice write up.

Maybe send your injectors to RC for cleaning.

If funds are tight and you cant get a new harness, I would inspect and tape up the existing with good 3 m electric tape or grip tape.

New OMP lines and washer and you are keeping OMP.

Get new crush washer for your turbo coolant and oil lines.

Under PSI

Again, all awesome advice guys. I ordered up a few more tidbits for the job and put a few more things on the list.

adam c

iTrader: (2)

It will be a good time to install a lightweight flywheel. The stock one is really heavy.

MattGold

iTrader: (108)

I love relevant threads!

I'm in a similar boat - pulling motor for maintenance.


Here's my to-do list (a lot grabbed from this thread):

- Install 99 spec turbos (need to remove broken stud)
- Setup turbos for “simplified sequential” operation
- Install JDM UIM & LIM w/ new metal gasket
- Install new motor mounts

- Delete AWS
- Delete Double Throttle Body Butterfly
- Delete AirPump
- Delete EGR
- Delete ACV
- Delete OMP (...and premix)
- Delete Fuel Pulsation Damper

- Fix oil pan leak / install Banzai brace
- Replace rear main seal
- Replace any / all hose with OEM or black silicone (coolant, vacuum, etc)
- Replace check valves with Dale Clark valves
- New crush washer for turbo coolant and oil lines
- Retape engine harness
- Retorque engine studs
- Change all fluids
- New plugs / wires / coil harness
- New fuel filter / oil filter

- Inspect clutch / FW - replace / resurface if needed
- Inspect fuel injectors - clean / flow test

- CLEAN EVERYTHING

IRPerformance

iTrader: (41)

Your list looks pretty solid. Whats the condition of your motor mounts? I have poly mounts in stock. Do you have a downpipe already? You may need new turbo and downpipe gaskets. I never like re-using turbo hardware. if you do the next time they come out they have a good chance of breaking. I like the copper -clad top lock nuts from clipsandfasteners.com

MattGold

iTrader: (108)

Not to thread jack - but I actually have a set of your street motor mounts that I got off Gringo. I do have a downpipe already and will probably replace all gaskets. I will check out those lock nuts as well.

wstrohm

Good luck passing California emissions! You can get away with deleting EGR and AWS. But a missing Air Pump may do you in... to say nothing of the potential increase in CO and HC.

Under PSI

I missed the part where you gave a recommendation about what we're talking about.

I'd love to have you in on the conversation... but I don't think you're talking about what we're talking about.

Sgtblue

iTrader: (16)

Don't think there was a reason to be so smarmy. wstrohm was addressing what I and probably others were wondering. After all, California is pretty famous for emissions. And you never mentioned this is a track-only car which might have even changed some of the answers we gave you.

TomU

iTrader: (11)

Are you recommending copper nuts for the manifold and/or turbo? I use them on the exhaust, but didn't know they could be used on the turbo as well

Another thought would be to port the wastegate if you are having any boost issues

Under PSI

If I were concerned about emissions, I would have started a thread about emissions. But I didn't. I asked a question about maintenance on a pulled engine and 20 posts in - the subject is is changed by a condescending comment - to which I replied, albeit a bit smarty. The idea was to stem that conversation from going further and invite that poster to jump in *on subject*.

So far this has been a productive discussion - and hopefully helpful for others (as it seems to have been). I appreciate your input and input from everyone and welcome more on it.

If anyone has questions on emissions - please start a new thread! I'm sure many people are interested.

Sgtblue

iTrader: (16)

Well to get back on the subject I agree with adamc and would correct my earlier suggestion to resurface the stock FW. I finally made the change after several years and wish I had done it sooner. Personally I would stay with something like ACT street lite or SR motorsports which is what I got. Still very Streetable and almost like a power adder. In a way it is I guess.

IRPerformance

iTrader: (41)

Yes. In my opinion the Mazda hardware is expensive junk. After a bunch of heat cycles the inconel studs/nuts splinter digging into the surrounding metal and seize and are a huge pain to drill out.

wstrohm

At the risk of still being "off-subject," let me ask you this: Do you intend to register this car for operation on California roads? You state your location as "Cali," and as Sgtblue wrote, you never said this was to be a track only car. As a matter of fact, you still haven't mentioned its end use. To get specific answers for specific usage, please state the specific usage.