Profec B Spec II reset itself: Need help with settings.
04-04-13, 10:32 PM
#1
Profec B Spec II reset itself: Need help with settings.
My FD came with a Greddy Profec B Spec II boost controller installed when I bought it. Since I took it home last month I've had to disconnect the battery for stereo wiring and stuff. I'm pretty sure it "forgot" it's previous setting.
I noticed the needle sweep past 10psi and heard it beep from the glove box. And I didn't even make it to 4,000 RPM. Basically, I'm not even driving the car because I feel like the boost controller isn't doing anything to control the boost.
I was able to find the PDF link for how to use it so I can input the settings. Problem is, short of knowing the stock PSI should be 10 I have no idea what the settings SHOULD be. Can any of you help me out? I want to drive my FD but I refuse to do so if it means putting the engine in harms way!!
http://www.greddy.com/upload/file/PRofec_Bspec2.pdf
I noticed the needle sweep past 10psi and heard it beep from the glove box. And I didn't even make it to 4,000 RPM. Basically, I'm not even driving the car because I feel like the boost controller isn't doing anything to control the boost.
I was able to find the PDF link for how to use it so I can input the settings. Problem is, short of knowing the stock PSI should be 10 I have no idea what the settings SHOULD be. Can any of you help me out? I want to drive my FD but I refuse to do so if it means putting the engine in harms way!!
http://www.greddy.com/upload/file/PRofec_Bspec2.pdf
04-05-13, 09:00 AM
#2
Everyone's settings are different due to mods. However, there is an old thread where many of us listed our profec b spec II settings. Do a search and should be able to find it. Im on my phone otherwise I'd do it for you.
If can't find it, just follow the instructions that you downloaded. Thats how I did mine. Its just took quite a few 4th gear pulls
On that same breath, you should turn off your controller and go for a run to make sure the highest boost level reached is 7 psi (stock wastegate spring). That way you can rule out that it is the controller and not something else.
If can't find it, just follow the instructions that you downloaded. Thats how I did mine. Its just took quite a few 4th gear pulls
On that same breath, you should turn off your controller and go for a run to make sure the highest boost level reached is 7 psi (stock wastegate spring). That way you can rule out that it is the controller and not something else.
Last edited by Montego; 04-05-13 at 09:04 AM.
04-05-13, 10:56 AM
#3
Check thread:
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...survey-449045/
Also from that thread and courtesy of mdpalmer:
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...survey-449045/
Also from that thread and courtesy of mdpalmer:
Originally Posted by Evo person
How To Tune Your Greddy Profec B spec II
updated 9/1/04
Before you begin, you should have an idea of what you're aiming for. For EVOs, 19psi (131 kPa) seems to be a safe setting based on what people on the forums have found since it is close to what the stock boost pressure is, yet there is an increase in power due to the Greddy unit keeping the boost close to 19psi while the stock boost tapers off as the RPMs increase. I will henceforth refer to what you're aiming for as "desired boost pressure".
Definitions and things you need to know before you start:
SET This is how you set the boost pressure. Rather than setting it in psi or kPa, the Greddy unit allows you to adjust it as a percentage value, from 0% (greddy unit essentially turned off) to 100% (greddy unit will set the boost as high as it can). This setup demands a certain amount of trial-and-error to properly configure it since you have to make adjustments, then drive under WOT (Wide Open Throttle) and see what the maximum boost pressure achieved was throughout the entire RPM range. SET SHOULD BE SET TO A CONSERVATIVE VALUE WHEN BEGINNING TO TUNE YOUR GREDDY UNIT. 30% SEEMS TO BE A CONSERVATIVE SETTING BASED ON MY TESTING AND BASED ON OTHER REPORTED NUMBERS FROM EVO OWNERS AND TAKING INTO CONSIDERATION THE LINK BETWEEN SET AND GAIN (see GAIN below).
GAIN is defined in the manual as the value to adjust the "boost consistency". You don't really need to know exactly what that means. You should set GAIN to 0 when beginning, and you will then test the car under WOT while paying attention to the boost pressure. If the boost goes up and then falls off at higher RPM, you will want to increase the GAIN by a conservative amount (5% should be relatively conservative to begin with, then when you want to fine-tune it, you can go down to intervals of 1%). When you increase the GAIN value, the corresponding boost that you will go up to will be higher even if you leave the SET value alone. GAIN SHOULD BE SET TO 0 WHEN BEGINNING TO TUNE YOUR GREDDY UNIT.
START BOOST (also known as SET GAIN because that is what is displayed on the unit when adjusting this setting) is the lowest boost that the Greddy unit will begin increasing the boost from under WOT. You want this to be as close to the SET value as possible, since you want to keep as close to your desired boost as possible. However, setting it too close to the SET value will cause the boost to spike. You should set this to a conservative setting when beginning to tune your Greddy unit. Then you can fine-tune it later to get it as close to the SET value as possible without causing the boost to spike. Fortunately, you can set this in psi or kPa, thankfully Greddy didn't decide to let this be adjustable in % like the SET value. START BOOST SHOULD BE SET TO YOUR DESIRED BOOST PRESSURE MINUS 4 PSI (about 28 kPa).
WARNING is the maximum boost that you do not want to exceed. Fortunately, you can also set this in psi or kPa like the START BOOST value. When the boost exceeds the WARNING level, it will kick in the LIMITER, which decreases the boost a certain amount that you can set. WARNING SHOULD BE SET TO YOUR DESIRED BOOST PRESSURE PLUS 1 PSI (about 7 kPa).
LIMITER is the boost percentage that the Greddy unit will lower by when the WARNING boost pressure is hit. LIMITER SHOULD BE SET TO 4%.
PEAK is the peak boost value that the unit has seen since the last time it was cleared. To clear it, go to the peak boost display, and hold down the set **** until the unit beeps and "---" is displayed. IT IS A GOOD IDEA TO CLEAR THIS BEFORE YOU BEGIN JUST IN CASE YOUR UNIT HAS A HIGH BOOST ALREADY RECORDED.
LAST BOOST shows you the last boost that was recorded every time the accelerator is released for 3 seconds. TURN LAST BOOST ON BECAUSE IT IS A GOOD DIAGNOSTIC TOOL WHEN TUNING YOUR UNIT.
Keep in mind that when displaying in kPa, it does not show it technically in kPa, but rather misleadingly in bars, which Greddy inconveniently tries to justify by sticking x100 kPa next to the display. Therefore, 100 kPa will be displayed as 1.00 x100 kPa. Psi will also unfortunately be displayed in psi x10 so that 19 psi will show as 190, adding to the confusion.
Another very important thing to keep in mind is that when you first power on your car or the Greddy unit, WARNING will be set to 14.5 psi (100kPa, or 1 bar) until you interact with the Greddy unit by pressing any button. This "feature" is not documented in the manual.
Also keep in mind that atmospheric conditions affect the operation of your boost controller. When it is hot, you will get different results than when it is cold. One possible way of solving this issue is tuning your Greddy unit under the "Lo" mode for when it is relatively cold, and under the "High" mode for when it is relatively hot. Unfortunately, two modes are hardly enough for somebody that needs to account for very different summer and winter climates, and also for more aggressive settings for when increased performance is desired.
The maximum boost that you will see is also not consistent throughout the gears, which adds even more to the confusion. Unfortunately, if you've already increased your start boost to the maximum setting that doesn't give you surging, then there seems to be no way to get around this variance in boost pressure from low to high gears. I don't know if this is a limitation of the greddy unit specifically, or if it's something inherent to electronic boost controllers in general. The only two things that you can do to compensate is the following:
1. Set it to the "safest" of the settings that does not trip your limiter. To do this, tune the unit to your desired boost pressure in fifth gear.
2. Tune the "Lo" and "Hi" settings corresponding to having the boost maximized during the low gears and during the high gears. This would require you to manually hit the button to switch to the "Hi" setting when you shift to third gear or whatever you started tuning your "Hi" setting at. This is why Greddy makes the wireless remote switch that straps to your steering wheel to switch between "Hi" and "Lo" settings.
The following steps should be taken in exactly this order, taking into consideration all of the previous information:
1. Change boost pressure units to psi if so desired (see manual).
2. Set WARNING to your desired boost pressure plus 1 psi (about 7 kPa) (see above).
3. Set START BOOST (SET GAIN) to your desired boost pressure minus 4 psi (about 28 kPa)(see above).
4. Clear PEAK boost value (see above).
5. Set LAST BOOST to ON (see above).
6. Set GAIN to 0 (see above).
7. Set SET to 30% (see above).
8. Set LIMITER to SET minus 4% (26% if you followed #7).
9. Test for boost falloff at high rpm. You should probably do this in a wide open area with no other cars nearby and preferably no cops. It is also good to have somebody in the car with you that can watch the gauge while you concentrate on not wrecking your car. If there is no boost falloff, then go to #10. If there is boost falloff, then increase the GAIN by 5% and test again. Keep in mind that when you increase the GAIN value, the corresponding boost that you will go up to will be higher even if you leave the SET value alone. Repeat until the boost pressure does not decrease, or until you feel surging. If you feel surging and the boost pressure still decreases (not sure if this is possible) then decrease to the last level that you did not feel surging at.
10. Increase SET by 2% and adjust LIMITER accordingly, then test again. Keep increasing by 2% until desired boost level is obtained.
11. Increase START BOOST (SET GAIN) by 1 increment and test until surging is felt or the WARNING level is hit and the display turns red, then decrease to the previous setting.
Once you have followed these steps, you will have roughly tuned your unit. To fine-tune it, repeat steps 9 and 10 except this time only increase or decrease by 1 increment.
Hope this helps somebody. Please let me know if something is wrong, or I missed something.
updated 9/1/04
Before you begin, you should have an idea of what you're aiming for. For EVOs, 19psi (131 kPa) seems to be a safe setting based on what people on the forums have found since it is close to what the stock boost pressure is, yet there is an increase in power due to the Greddy unit keeping the boost close to 19psi while the stock boost tapers off as the RPMs increase. I will henceforth refer to what you're aiming for as "desired boost pressure".
Definitions and things you need to know before you start:
SET This is how you set the boost pressure. Rather than setting it in psi or kPa, the Greddy unit allows you to adjust it as a percentage value, from 0% (greddy unit essentially turned off) to 100% (greddy unit will set the boost as high as it can). This setup demands a certain amount of trial-and-error to properly configure it since you have to make adjustments, then drive under WOT (Wide Open Throttle) and see what the maximum boost pressure achieved was throughout the entire RPM range. SET SHOULD BE SET TO A CONSERVATIVE VALUE WHEN BEGINNING TO TUNE YOUR GREDDY UNIT. 30% SEEMS TO BE A CONSERVATIVE SETTING BASED ON MY TESTING AND BASED ON OTHER REPORTED NUMBERS FROM EVO OWNERS AND TAKING INTO CONSIDERATION THE LINK BETWEEN SET AND GAIN (see GAIN below).
GAIN is defined in the manual as the value to adjust the "boost consistency". You don't really need to know exactly what that means. You should set GAIN to 0 when beginning, and you will then test the car under WOT while paying attention to the boost pressure. If the boost goes up and then falls off at higher RPM, you will want to increase the GAIN by a conservative amount (5% should be relatively conservative to begin with, then when you want to fine-tune it, you can go down to intervals of 1%). When you increase the GAIN value, the corresponding boost that you will go up to will be higher even if you leave the SET value alone. GAIN SHOULD BE SET TO 0 WHEN BEGINNING TO TUNE YOUR GREDDY UNIT.
START BOOST (also known as SET GAIN because that is what is displayed on the unit when adjusting this setting) is the lowest boost that the Greddy unit will begin increasing the boost from under WOT. You want this to be as close to the SET value as possible, since you want to keep as close to your desired boost as possible. However, setting it too close to the SET value will cause the boost to spike. You should set this to a conservative setting when beginning to tune your Greddy unit. Then you can fine-tune it later to get it as close to the SET value as possible without causing the boost to spike. Fortunately, you can set this in psi or kPa, thankfully Greddy didn't decide to let this be adjustable in % like the SET value. START BOOST SHOULD BE SET TO YOUR DESIRED BOOST PRESSURE MINUS 4 PSI (about 28 kPa).
WARNING is the maximum boost that you do not want to exceed. Fortunately, you can also set this in psi or kPa like the START BOOST value. When the boost exceeds the WARNING level, it will kick in the LIMITER, which decreases the boost a certain amount that you can set. WARNING SHOULD BE SET TO YOUR DESIRED BOOST PRESSURE PLUS 1 PSI (about 7 kPa).
LIMITER is the boost percentage that the Greddy unit will lower by when the WARNING boost pressure is hit. LIMITER SHOULD BE SET TO 4%.
PEAK is the peak boost value that the unit has seen since the last time it was cleared. To clear it, go to the peak boost display, and hold down the set **** until the unit beeps and "---" is displayed. IT IS A GOOD IDEA TO CLEAR THIS BEFORE YOU BEGIN JUST IN CASE YOUR UNIT HAS A HIGH BOOST ALREADY RECORDED.
LAST BOOST shows you the last boost that was recorded every time the accelerator is released for 3 seconds. TURN LAST BOOST ON BECAUSE IT IS A GOOD DIAGNOSTIC TOOL WHEN TUNING YOUR UNIT.
Keep in mind that when displaying in kPa, it does not show it technically in kPa, but rather misleadingly in bars, which Greddy inconveniently tries to justify by sticking x100 kPa next to the display. Therefore, 100 kPa will be displayed as 1.00 x100 kPa. Psi will also unfortunately be displayed in psi x10 so that 19 psi will show as 190, adding to the confusion.
Another very important thing to keep in mind is that when you first power on your car or the Greddy unit, WARNING will be set to 14.5 psi (100kPa, or 1 bar) until you interact with the Greddy unit by pressing any button. This "feature" is not documented in the manual.
Also keep in mind that atmospheric conditions affect the operation of your boost controller. When it is hot, you will get different results than when it is cold. One possible way of solving this issue is tuning your Greddy unit under the "Lo" mode for when it is relatively cold, and under the "High" mode for when it is relatively hot. Unfortunately, two modes are hardly enough for somebody that needs to account for very different summer and winter climates, and also for more aggressive settings for when increased performance is desired.
The maximum boost that you will see is also not consistent throughout the gears, which adds even more to the confusion. Unfortunately, if you've already increased your start boost to the maximum setting that doesn't give you surging, then there seems to be no way to get around this variance in boost pressure from low to high gears. I don't know if this is a limitation of the greddy unit specifically, or if it's something inherent to electronic boost controllers in general. The only two things that you can do to compensate is the following:
1. Set it to the "safest" of the settings that does not trip your limiter. To do this, tune the unit to your desired boost pressure in fifth gear.
2. Tune the "Lo" and "Hi" settings corresponding to having the boost maximized during the low gears and during the high gears. This would require you to manually hit the button to switch to the "Hi" setting when you shift to third gear or whatever you started tuning your "Hi" setting at. This is why Greddy makes the wireless remote switch that straps to your steering wheel to switch between "Hi" and "Lo" settings.
The following steps should be taken in exactly this order, taking into consideration all of the previous information:
1. Change boost pressure units to psi if so desired (see manual).
2. Set WARNING to your desired boost pressure plus 1 psi (about 7 kPa) (see above).
3. Set START BOOST (SET GAIN) to your desired boost pressure minus 4 psi (about 28 kPa)(see above).
4. Clear PEAK boost value (see above).
5. Set LAST BOOST to ON (see above).
6. Set GAIN to 0 (see above).
7. Set SET to 30% (see above).
8. Set LIMITER to SET minus 4% (26% if you followed #7).
9. Test for boost falloff at high rpm. You should probably do this in a wide open area with no other cars nearby and preferably no cops. It is also good to have somebody in the car with you that can watch the gauge while you concentrate on not wrecking your car. If there is no boost falloff, then go to #10. If there is boost falloff, then increase the GAIN by 5% and test again. Keep in mind that when you increase the GAIN value, the corresponding boost that you will go up to will be higher even if you leave the SET value alone. Repeat until the boost pressure does not decrease, or until you feel surging. If you feel surging and the boost pressure still decreases (not sure if this is possible) then decrease to the last level that you did not feel surging at.
10. Increase SET by 2% and adjust LIMITER accordingly, then test again. Keep increasing by 2% until desired boost level is obtained.
11. Increase START BOOST (SET GAIN) by 1 increment and test until surging is felt or the WARNING level is hit and the display turns red, then decrease to the previous setting.
Once you have followed these steps, you will have roughly tuned your unit. To fine-tune it, repeat steps 9 and 10 except this time only increase or decrease by 1 increment.
Hope this helps somebody. Please let me know if something is wrong, or I missed something.
04-05-13, 11:24 AM
#4
Oooooo thanks! That's just what I'm looking for. I'll read over it all.
Right now I'm running a PFR stockmount intercooler, intakes, 3" from the turbo to the exhaust tip. I know this can cause boost creep which is why I'm wanting to get the settings right.
Right now I'm running a PFR stockmount intercooler, intakes, 3" from the turbo to the exhaust tip. I know this can cause boost creep which is why I'm wanting to get the settings right.
04-05-13, 12:45 PM
#5
A boost controller won't help when it comes to boost creep. As it is attributed to the wastegate size. That is the reason why we port our stock wastegate when we get creep.
As I said turn off the controller because at that point you will be running off the wastegate spring (no controller to offset the pressure, and thus you are running off the spring). Meaning that as soon as you hit 7 psi the wastegate flap will open. If you are at a steady 7 psi then you know it is your controller that needs to be adjusted. But if you go past 7 psi, then obviously the issue is not related to your controller. Boost creep is easy to identify as it will hold the desired boost at the lower rpms but will start creeping up as you approach redline.
As I said turn off the controller because at that point you will be running off the wastegate spring (no controller to offset the pressure, and thus you are running off the spring). Meaning that as soon as you hit 7 psi the wastegate flap will open. If you are at a steady 7 psi then you know it is your controller that needs to be adjusted. But if you go past 7 psi, then obviously the issue is not related to your controller. Boost creep is easy to identify as it will hold the desired boost at the lower rpms but will start creeping up as you approach redline.
04-05-13, 01:00 PM
#6
A boost controller won't help when it comes to boost creep. As it is attributed to the wastegate size. That is the reason why we port our stock wastegate when we get creep.
As I said turn off the controller because at that point you will be running off the wastegate spring (no controller to offset the pressure, and thus you are running off the spring). Meaning that as soon as you hit 7 psi the wastegate flap will open. If you are at a steady 7 psi then you know it is your controller that needs to be adjusted. But if you go past 7 psi, then obviously the issue is not related to your controller. Boost creep is easy to identify as it will hold the desired boost at the lower rpms but will start creeping up as you approach redline.
As I said turn off the controller because at that point you will be running off the wastegate spring (no controller to offset the pressure, and thus you are running off the spring). Meaning that as soon as you hit 7 psi the wastegate flap will open. If you are at a steady 7 psi then you know it is your controller that needs to be adjusted. But if you go past 7 psi, then obviously the issue is not related to your controller. Boost creep is easy to identify as it will hold the desired boost at the lower rpms but will start creeping up as you approach redline.
I went and played with the settings a little. It seemed to help a bit but I'm still not quite sure how the different gain settings and such work.
04-05-13, 03:05 PM
#7
I think I got it all dialed in. Both the Profec and the physical boost gauge state that I'm holding juuuuust below 10psi. Like 9.8 or something. It took a few highway pulls but I really think I got it right.
To be honest, what really helped was that explanation from the Evo guy on what each setting did. Knowing realistically WHAT you're altering helps the most.
Thanks for all the help!
To be honest, what really helped was that explanation from the Evo guy on what each setting did. Knowing realistically WHAT you're altering helps the most.
Thanks for all the help!
Trending Topics
04-06-13, 07:43 AM
#9
Thanks. And honestly, I think it even puts more of a smile on my face when I drive it knowing that I did it myself. I was really intimidated by the boost controller thinking, "Yeah, I'd better not touch that jazz if I want this car to live." But now I'm all....
