RotorMotor

iTrader: (5)

i have a used DP (i dont know what brand) that im trying to install. i dont think it is possible to get the lower rear bolt in at all... the way it is bent makes it utterly impossible to get in. can i just use the other 3 on really tight?

RotorMotor

iTrader: (5)

oppinion anyone?

EdwardNorth

I would think that not having one of the bolts on would be asking for an exhaust leak of some sort. Where did you get the downpipe? I don't suppose you have an image of it you could post?

JonesersRX7

I have seen this problem alot on the board.... I have also heard of people only running 3 bolts.

I never got to put one on my car.... so I dunno from personal experience.

I would keep trying and try a different socket/extension combo.

Jonesie -

adam c

iTrader: (2)

You will have an exhaust leak with three bolts.

I suggest that you install the difficult bolt first. With the DP completely unbolted, push the difficult bolt all the way thru the hole in the flange, until it is flush. At this point, the DP should be separated at least 1/4 inch from the manifold. You should be able to tighten the bolt this way.

Good luck, Adam

RotorMotor

iTrader: (5)

i wish i had my digital camera w/ me... ill try to borrow one from a friend and post a pic of what im talking about. i got the DP off a car im converting to a 3rotor... i have no idea where the previous owner bought the pipe from. when i took it off he had used a bolt w/ a hex head on it and it was impossible to remove... i had to use a pair of vice grips because you cant get a ratchet or ANYTHING in there. the pipe bends down over that screw hole. ive also wrapped the DP making the insanely limited space even more impossible to use. i even ground a bolt down so it would be shorter and fit in... theres just no good way to get this done@!! the pipe is so close to the side wall of hte engine compartment that you cant slide it onto an already existing stud.... you have to put them in after the fact and it looks like theres no way to do it....

adam c

iTrader: (2)

OK.

Another option, which may be the only one for you, is to cut a slot in the flange on the DP. This way, you can slide the DP onto the bolt after the bolt is most of the way in.

I would cut away the wrapping so you can get this bolt on tight.

artowar

iTrader: (1)

Two ways to get more clearance:

1. As I think adam c suggested, grind one or more holes on the flange to be slightly larger. This will give you some more wiggle-room when mounting the pipe.

2. I read somewhere (sorry, can't remember where-- it may have been maxcooper, but I'm not sure) that you can rotate the engine a bit to get more clearance from the side wall. I think they used a small jack (the stock jack?), found a suitable spot between the engine and engine bay wall, then expanded the jack to get the desired space. Two thoughts on this trick-- first, you shouldn't need to move the engine much, since you should be able to mount the DP wihout moving the engine, and second, make sure the jack isn't going to slip while you're working on the DP. It would suck to have your hand crushed and/or trapped...

RotorMotor

iTrader: (5)

hmmm i think the slot idea is a good one!!!! ill take a few measurments and see what angle will work best!!

rotating the engine scares me a bit...i dont want to break any mounts or bend any sheet metal

RotorMotor

iTrader: (5)

well i couldnt wait any longer and i just started it w/ 3 bolts in place really tight... no leaks as far as i can tell. the wrapping (i think the brand is DEI...like $40/roll) smoked so much i thought the engine was on fire!!!! it was REALLY smokey... has anyone else expierienced this? the smoke kinda smelled like pineapples (thats the best i can describe it as ...kinda sweet) and i can still smell it burning after a few hours driving around. its not visibly smoking as it was before, but i can sure smell it. anyone else care to share their expieriences wrapping a DP?

skunks

its totally normal fo rit to smoke after wrapping it. just keep driving it and it will eventually go away.