JyRO

iTrader: (3)

Guys,

In the process of rebuilding the front end of my car, I took the Pettit intake off and put the stock airbox on ... now I am back with the Pettit.

At some point with the airbox I noticed a large whooshing sound when getting on the throttle at low rpm (below 4,500 rpm). I dismissed this sound as normal because just before hearing this sound I had read that the secondary pre-spools into the airbox (to atmospphere with the Pettit I suppose). I figured the whooshing sound was the sound of air going into the airbox.

After putting the Pettit back on, the sound stayed the same. This is where you guys are justified to kick me in the *** for being stupid.

I was kicking around the idea of going non-sequential (still am kicking it around), and got to thinking I should read again about how the turbos work. I learned (again) that the secondary turbo doesn't begin pre-spooling until ~3,000 rpm.

So on my way home yesterday I decided to experiment. I would get into it from 2,000 rpm, and lo-and-behold I would get the whooshing sound before 3,000 rpm & would only pull ~ 7 or 8 psi! JyRO <---- Dumbass for not noticing before. But actually I've just begun to be able to drive the car (body work & paint finished on 9/14).

Next experiment was to ease it over 4,500 rpm, get enough throttle to ensure both turbos were engaged, and roll the throttle to the floor. The whooshing sound was still there and still only about 7 or 8 psi. It's obvious now I have a boost leak. Not a big one, but just a little is too much.

Thinking back to when I first noticed this sound, I must have left a hose clamp loose somewhere when I was messing around with it during the time I was putting the stock airbox on.

Sorry for the long post. If you guys don't mind, let me know if you agree it's a boost leak. I'm going to check all the hose clamps over the weekend.

Just in case it's the intercooler, what's a good home-made way to find a leak in it?

Smitter

are u using the stock IC and couplers?
if so u must remove them from the car and bend and manipulated them to find where they are split, i would start with the one between the y pipe and crossover pipe. check all the rubber ic hoses aswell.

Jesus loves rotaries

Take off all your couplers and squeeze them around to figure out if you have a crack in any of them. I would just go ahead and replace them all with some silicone couplers so you don't have to worry about them for a long time. If they are the original stock couplers they are probably old and brittle. Also check the factory bov and the charge relieve valve to make sure that they are both working right because they can both lead to a boost leak if they aren't working right. That might be where you are hearing that wooshing sound from.

JyRO

iTrader: (3)

To answer your question: Yes, stock stuff.

When I bought the car, the hose right off the Y-pipe was blown and it would make no boost. That's already been replaced. I guess I should check that again, to see if I blew it's replacement.

I had the IC hoses off last week to replace both belts. I didn't eyeball them, but just handling them they looked OK. But then again, I wasn't specifically looking for a boost leak. I will check them all tomorrow.

JyRO

iTrader: (3)

Interesting. I'll study up on these and check'em out too. Thanks.

JyRO

iTrader: (3)

Found 2 different problems! The coupler attached to the Y-pipe cracked by the hose clamp, and the coupler at the joint at the intake hose elbow down to the bottom of the I.C. had a gouge in it. That gouge might have just been a weak spot that got blown open. I don't know how I didn't notice this when I changed the belts.

So ... now the question is: I'd like to fix these problems once and for all. The Y-pipe coupler I replaced just after buying the car, and it's cracked again.

What are my options? I'm going to start searching but I'd like to hear some opinions.

Thanks.

Smitter

go get some silicone couplers to replace the factory rubber ones, they will likely out last your motor. they are typically blue in color and can be found on any aftermarket ic piping that u see (if u dont know what i am talking about)

dgeesaman

iTrader: (7)

One answer to the y-pipe coupler is an Efini y-pipe that has a bolted connection there instead of the rubber coupler. Another answer is a good silicone coupler. Do NOT overtighten the band clamps - this will bite into the coupler material and ruin it quickly.

I would just replace the elbow at the i/c with a good stock one. Others might get those shiny pipes and silicone couplers.

Dave