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Had a similar internal debate about trying to source Haltech or something newer for more "modern" technology. Can't remember all the research but it was pretty nebulous (to me personally), things like injector resolution and what not.
The one feature I did really want was the ability to tune for 50/50 meth AI. Of course, you can tune for it still on the PFC but because there is no integration with the AI kits (such as flow sensors, etc.) you now have a single point of failure. If the nozzle gets blocked, becomes loose, or the pump fails and you make a pull, could be the end right there.
That being said, doesn't seem like meth AI is necessary for a street driven car.
Even for a HPDE car, it's seems like a nice to have, not a necessity. Though I will say, the car was significantly down on power as ambient got hotter and everything started heat soaking (even with distilled water AI). So if you're competing in time attack or in wheel to wheel, I imagine it'd be a necessary feature for peak performance. Otherwise, just accept the additional delta on the laptimes or limit the HPDE to cooler seasons I guess.
People get really carried away thinking about a water injection setup.
I've been running a basic AEM water injection system pulling windshield washer fluid from my stock front tank for 8-10 years. Nozzle in the elbow. Drops temps like a rock, car runs great, PFC doesn't know anything about it.
You don't have to do some exotic setup, just do something simple, you get a TON of benefits and zero hassle. I don't even have to top off the tank often, I've done full Deal's Gap trips on a tank with plenty to spare.
People get really carried away thinking about a water injection setup.
I've been running a basic AEM water injection system pulling windshield washer fluid from my stock front tank for 8-10 years. Nozzle in the elbow. Drops temps like a rock, car runs great, PFC doesn't know anything about it.
You don't have to do some exotic setup, just do something simple, you get a TON of benefits and zero hassle. I don't even have to top off the tank often, I've done full Deal's Gap trips on a tank with plenty to spare.
Dale
I've got a rear wiper on the car so I may just run a line and use the rear tank for that. AEM seems to be solid for the most part. I remember them having issues with the controller when they first came out, I'm guessing they have addressed that by now.
My unpopular suggestion is to run a Pettit ECU. Plug and play, no tuning required and get you to your power goals reliability with the parts you are looking to install.
Agree with much of the above re: AI. It doesn’t have to be complicated and don’t tune with it.
With a properly sized nozzle you won’t see any power loss. If it’s simple, it’s reliable, and if anything ever does go wrong the engine won’t care.
Can you ditch emissions without CELs and LIMP with a Pettit ECU?
Can you ditch emissions without CELs and LIMP with a Pettit ECU?
nope, which is better, less work
i ran an RE Amemyia ECU for years, it was very much worth the $50. it was obvious by the way the car ran that they tuned the whole map.
RE A had 3 levels of ecu, A,B and C. A was intake and cat back, B removes the cat, and C was for custom tunes, so C ecus should be avoided, unless you want to take a try at reflashing it
i ran an RE Amemyia ECU for years, it was very much worth the $50. it was obvious by the way the car ran that they tuned the whole map.
RE A had 3 levels of ecu, A,B and C. A was intake and cat back, B removes the car, and C was for custom tunes, so C ecus should be avoided, unless you want to take a try at reflashing it
Do you know if there is any documentation of what mods are supported for these tunes? This may be a good idea since the car is JDM, I don't think the Pettit will work out just because it won't have EGR and a couple other things USDM have.
To add to a few of the others comments. If you are doing basic bolt ons and stick with the stock turbos, I would get the Power FC and FC Tweak. I have this setup and have been using Xaviers software for a few years now. Its nothing short of amazing for the money. Highly recommend spending the extra $200 for the software.
As for AI, I am in the same boat as Dale. A lot of me wanted to tune while using AI for the extra power, but I knew it would be a poor choice. IF the system did fail, so would my motor. So I decided to tune without AI and add it on top to clean the motor and reduce heat. I am VERY glad I made this choice. I upgraded to the V3 nozzle from AEM and have had it get stuck shut twice!
My unpopular suggestion is to run a Pettit ECU. Plug and play, no tuning required and get you to your power goals reliability with the parts you are looking to install.
Say it louder for the folks in the back! The only knock on going this route is if you have a FD that struggles with the 3k hesitation. I'm also a fan of the PFC but the Pettit setup is the only one you can plug in after the stock ecu and not have to adjust idle or anything. Just have your boost control setup sorted and enjoy. Pettit ecu, water meth and 14psi with full exhaust and you have a high 11 second 1/4 mile FD. Crazy considering the age of the car and technology.
Do you know if there is any documentation of what mods are supported for these tunes? This may be a good idea since the car is JDM, I don't think the Pettit will work out just because it won't have EGR and a couple other things USDM have.
yes, the A Type was for a car with stock engine, stock turbos, and the main cat
the B type is without the converter
and C type was for custom tunes
if you want to dig further, search under the user name Inukai, he is one of RE Amemyias drivers, he posted more full specs
The only knock on going this route is if you have a FD that struggles with the 3k hesitation..
this was too inconclusive to make a big post about, but i spent some time messing with the adjustments on the throttle body, and the TPS vs throttle angle made a big difference with the 3k hesitation.
or maybe its easier to say if you get the TPS just right the hesitation goes away (and if its off it got worse)
Since we're mentioning older solutions, before PFC I ran a chipped M2 ECU with their Intake, Large SMIC, a RB CB and Knightsports boost controller. 315 whp at 13 psi daily driver, autox, drag (12.8@110 quarter) and track days with no issues ever. Only went PFC when I got larger injectors and a full 3.5" catless exhaust. My only peeve with the M2 ECU was that it still had the OEM 3000 rpm hesitation...
I think some of the USDM ECU's like M2 and Pettit are probably out of the question just because they expect the USDM emissions parts that won't be on the JDM car. PFC should be plug and play without doing the changes you need to for the USDM cars. Sounds like the RE-A ECU would be the best stock replacement comparable to the M2 and Pettit drop ins.
The label has info on it, that I am sure can be deciphered. It came in on with a JDM engine that had stock twins and injectors.
I found an order form online that looks like they had the capacity to raise boost, increase oiling and decrease the fan temps. Maybe someone that reads Japanese can translate. This is not specific to the one we have
Last edited by Banzai-Racing; 11-11-22 at 06:13 AM.
^ I used the google translate camera function. It's pretty much what it looks like in the picture. It just says it's for a basic setup with airpump on. The rest is clearly listed, like higher rev limit, more OMP flow, higher boost.
SO. We are wrong. FC Tweak does add some engine protection that wasn't there previously. Taken right out of the FC Tweak manual.
PFC has always had this, adjustable via the datalogit. There are lots of safety features built in, but I don’t play chess with pigeons, so when I read safety this, safety that I turn off since they clearly have never looked at the PFC maps in detail
Last edited by Banzai-Racing; 11-11-22 at 05:24 PM.
The label has info on it, that I am sure can be deciphered. It came in on with a JDM engine that had stock twins and injectors.
I found an order form online that looks like they had the capacity to raise boost, increase oiling and decrease the fan temps. Maybe someone that reads Japanese can translate. This is not specific to the one we have
I've got my eye on it. If it is still available when I receive the car then I may snag it. At this point I do not know if the car has one already in it or not but this may be a nice cheaper alternative short term over PFC but I would definitely want to get a wideband installed to double check AFRs on the tune at minimum. I don't like blindly trusting stickers on tunes like this. I've had a few SR20 ECUs come through from different tuners that were labeled one way but had been re-flashed for something completely different.
I've got my eye on it. If it is still available when I receive the car then I may snag it. At this point I do not know if the car has one already in it or not but this may be a nice cheaper alternative short term over PFC but I would definitely want to get a wideband installed to double check AFRs on the tune at minimum. I don't like blindly trusting stickers on tunes like this. I've had a few SR20 ECUs come through from different tuners that were labeled one way but had been re-flashed for something completely different.
that is the neat part B to the chipped ECU's. since the factory chip isn't programmable, they add a chip that is and that chip actually is flashable, so if you had the time you could actually learn to program it yourself
part C is that the JDM tunes are a bunch leaner than stock. the stock tune is there is protect the cat on poor gas (you can run 87), the chip tune is more for power.
Big thing as stated with chip ECU's is the 3000 RPM hesitation. I've done PFC installs on MANY FD's and had some cars that had BAD 3k hesitation, plug in PFC, and it's totally GONE. Without question, the 3k hesitation is a bug in the stock ECU. There are things that HELP it but it never totally goes away.
11-09-22, 07:31 PM
