hi
i've a 94 rx7 and noticed it wasn't as quick as it should be when burnt of in a race so i took it to mazda to get them to check it! the bottom intercooler pipe had a big split in, that was replaced and the power increase was massive. i thought it was quick before i bought it like that and did'nt really know how insane it should have been.
Here's the problem now the pipe has been replaced it would get to 4000 rpm and just slump and lurch very badly, mazda have now had the car for two days and not a clue!
The replaced the vacum hose which was also split which improved things so they say but there at a loose end and this is costing me a fortune can anyone help???

 

It shouldn't cost you a thing if they can't find the problem. You're paying them to find and fix your problem, not to wonder about it and charge you money. If they can't find it, insist on not paying and make sure to take it all the way to the owner of the dealership if you have to. Any jackass on the street can look at the car and not find your problem...you're paying these guys because they're supposed to have a clue

As for the problem...I dunno. Check the engine codes to make sure nothing's wrong there. If you don't have any other hoses that are leaking or broken, I really haven't a clue.

Patrick

 

maybe secondary injectors??????

 

Check all the vacuum lines by T-ing in with a boost gauge, and if they don't fix your problem then don't pay. If they insist, then pay with a credit card and cancel payment right away. I had to do this when I was told I needed to replace my engine for 5 grand when the only problem was the MAP sensor connector.

 

Check and make sure the hose is connected to the Ye ole Map Sensor. It is located on the firewall on the drivers side and says "Boost Sensor" on it. There should be a hose connected to the bottom of it. If there isn't that is your problem and you shouldn't have to pay anything for it. Unless you want to make a donation to me of course!

Good luck!

 

just talk to mazda it's throwing up error code 13 this mean anything!

 

I think that's the MAP sensor code. Someone correct me if I'm wrong. If I'm right tell them to check the vacuum hose to the pressure sensor and the electrical connector. If that doesn't help, tell them to test it.

 

anyone else, have any ideas something silly that mazda would miss?

 

1 Ignition coil (trailing side)
2 Crank position NE sensor
3 Crank position G sensor
5 Knock sensor
8 Airflow meter (AFM)
9 Water thermosensor
10 Intake air thermosensor (AFM)
11 Intake air thermosensor (engine)
12 Throttle sensor - full range
13 Pressure sensor - intake manifold
14 Atmospheric pressure sensor (built in ECU)
15 oxygen sensor
17 Feedback system for O2 sensor
18 Throttle sensor - narrow range
20 Metering oil pump position sensor
23 Fuel thermosensor
25 Solenoid valve - pressure regulator control
26 metering oil pump stepper motor
27 Metering oil pump
28 Solenoid valve - EGR
29 Solenoid valve - EGR vent
30 Solenoid valve - split air bypass
31 solenoid valve - relief 1
32 Solenoid valve - switching
33 Solenoid valve - port air bypass
34 Solenoid valve -idle speed control (BAC)
37 Metering oil pump
38 Solenoid valve - accelerated warmup system and air supply valve
39 Solenoid valve - relief 2
40 Solenoid valve - purge control (auxilary port valve)
41 Solenoid valve - variable dynamic effect intake (VDI)
42 Solenoid valve - turbo precontrol
43 Solenoid valve - wastegate control
44 Solenoid valve - turbo control
45 Solenoid valve - charge control
46 Solenoid valve - charge relief control
50 Solenoid valve - double throttle control
51 Fuel pump relay
54 Air pump relay
65 Air conditioning signal
71 Injector - front secondary
73 Injector - rear secondary
76 Slip lockup signal
77 Torque reduced signal

These should help. I bet a good bit of your problem lies in that lucky #13 Pressure sensor - intake manifold. If that is the same thing as the MAP sensor that is your problem. It would take 5 minutes to swap out that sensor and the part costs ~$50. You should not pay more than $70 to get this fixed. Higher than that it is bullshit and you need to raise hell with them.

 

Day five of my rx7 at mazda still haven't found problem, they have tried another map sensor, reset the ecu checked all voltages there going to try another ecu and monday! they are totally stuck for ideas!

 

anyone?

 

Are there any other symtoms?

How is the oil pressure? When was the last time the fuel filter was changed?

There are tons of things to check:

Pressure Sensor
Pressure Regulator
Throttle Sensor
Metering Oil Pump
Injectors

and the list goes on...

 

oil pressures ok had a twelve month service two weeks ago would they have changed filter then? i'm not sure what else they have checked, they seem preocuiped with ecu code 13!

 

that car should be a OBD 3 System. Were the codes extracted your self??? have them hook it up to a scanner. From my experience from Sequioa Institute if its a dealer you brought your car to then they should find the problem right away by scanning the Cpu with a scanner. And if nothing pops up as a result then it cant be any thing that deals with electronics on your car. Check that hose. Is it approved for this use?? It's possible that this hose they replaced is collapsing at 4000rpm or the hose wasn't properly fastend and there is still a vacume leak.

 

they got the codes at my mazda dealer the mechanic say's he has tried a different pressure/map sensor and that brings up error 13, going to try ecu next!

 

they are going to try a new ecu today! what's the bet's the don't work!

 

so many rotary problems, so little money/time

 

 

finally found the problem it's the ecu! i need a new one £600 would it be worth getting a after market ecu!

 

Definetly get an aftermarket ecu. You won't regret it. Hey congratulations.

 

what do you recommend? without moding anything else bit sort of funds!

 

If you never plan on modding then you can go stock, but if you ever want to mod, I would go with the Power FC or the new AEM.

 

Cheers!

 

If you don't plan on getting crazy with mods (like going to a Single Turbo or upgrading your injectors), then you can go with a reprogrammed ECU like M2, G-Force, or Pettit. That will save you some cash and allow you to add in the normal BPU mods.