ALIGNMENT:

Left front camber -2.2
Right front camber -2.0
Left rear camber -2.6
Right rear camber -2.4 or -2.5

Front toe .20 to .25
Rear toe .30 to .35

Left caster 4.2 to 4.5
Right caster 4.4 to 4.9


Wheel/tire:

SSR GT1 17 x 9 all around

Front: 255/40-17 A032r

Rear: 275/40/17 A032r


Suspension:

Front Addco sway bar 1 1/8"
Rear Addco sway bar 7/8" (widest one that I can find on the market at the time)

Koni adjustable ft/rr

Ground control coil overs:
Front spring rates: 450
Rear spring rates: 350

Note: Feel free to highlight, copy, paste and modify ur specs to save the typing efforts.

 

What are the thickest sway bars on the market now and what is the optimal size from anyone's experience? Stock touring just isn't cuttin' it

 

a beefed up rear sway bar, stiffer shocks and springs is best suited for staggered tires and a more negative camber.

 

Man that is a lot of camber in the rear, why so much?

Do you exclusively auto-x the car?

 

you gotta mention what type of racing you are doing with the car as well, drift, drag, autoX, highspeed... they all have different settings.

in anycase, mines is set at stock settings right now for just putting around town

 

shouldn't this be in the suspension section....

 

Turbojeff,

The negative camber balances the stiff rear end.

Keep in mind that if u toss a stiffer sway bar and don't adjust more negative camber u'll be tail happy.

I know from experience.

 

I was going to put this in that section, but felt that this was more appropriate for the FD section.

After all, we are the master race of the RX7's aren;t we?

-Arrogant FD owner

 

Skunks, this is for track driving and street usage.

 

So true.

 

Camber-
Front:-2.2
Rear: -1.8

Running on stock rims. 16x8

all i can remember right now. I drift my car on the track.

 

 

My current track and street usage setup on stock rims and tires:
front camber: -1.5deg
rear camber: -1.3deg

front toe in: 0,05deg
rear toe in: 0,03deg

Caster: 6deg

This is somewhat close to what howard coleman suggests, running around 29psi front and 27psi rear hot pressure (not track pressure).

 

Pyrometers don't lie. I'm just under 2 degrees negative at all four corners.

 

Your front end must be so terribly unstuck for this to work and balance the car. The reason you had to do this to make the rear work is because the front end is not.

Most of the time the stiffer the springs and bars are the less negative camber you can run because the car isn't rolling as much. After that it just comes down to how much camber the tire really likes and any street tire will not need near as much as a softer race tire.

Does everyone really know why to run negative camber? After you know why how do you know how much?

 

Let me try to answer to this question:

Car rolls on to the side in a corner and with negative camber you make sure you dont drive on your tirewalls through corners and provide optimum contact patch for the tyre. Ofcourse, there is also the effect of toe-in and tyre pressure but that is basically it.

With pyrometer you define how much of the camber you need for optimum tyre wear. You want equal or as close to equal tyre temperatures across its width after a run. Usually you set it so that you have a bit higher temps on the inside as that gives a bit more cornering grip but will wear more on the straights during acceleration and braking.

Also, more negative camber usually lets you run a bit lower tyre pressures which is good.

 

My tire pressue is 32 ft and 28 rear.