corymarc.com

iTrader: (2)

I would like to replace both wategate and precontrol actuators. Can this be done with the turbos still on the car?

DaleClark

iTrader: (55)

Yep, no problem at all. Pull the airbox out for room, you have 4 13mm (yes, 13mm) bolts holding the actuators on and 2 C-clips holding the rods to the flapper arms. No biggie.

BTW, you can get those C-clips new from Mazda if yours are shot - I remember them being VERY reasonably priced, so much so that I bought like 5 or 10 of them when I heard the price .

Dale

dgeesaman

iTrader: (7)

Sometimes a 1/2" socket fits on those bolts even better than the 13mm.

IRPerformance

iTrader: (41)

Cory whats wrong with them? I have about 10 sets laying around the shop if you want them. Doing some cleaning and throwing out a lot of stuff.

sbnrx7

iTrader: (4)

You can also get them from Home Depot...hardware section

Steve

arghx

iTrader: (3)

Are you sure they are bad? That's one of the least likely sources of a boost control problem.

corymarc.com

iTrader: (2)

I did it. Still have no first turbo boost. I have transition boost and second turbo but no first.

I have new solenoids (From group buy) and checked the routing of the hoses 20 times.

Will the turbo control actuator prevent me form first boost if it not functioning properly?

Do you think the wastegate door could be broken?

corymarc.com

iTrader: (2)

Ihor I would love to help clean your shop of some used parts.. Hahaha I want to track my car at the event but want it to be running properly.

sbnrx7

iTrader: (4)

Cory,
Did you actually test the actuators? I didn't see anything about testing with a mityvac.

Steve

corymarc.com

iTrader: (2)

Yes I did. The fsm said to but 10 psi or less.
So I did it with a air compressor

Fritz Flynn

iTrader: (263)

When I have no primary and full secondary I start with the function of charge control value which is the little butterfly type door on the y pipe.

corymarc.com

iTrader: (2)

They way I tested the charge control actuator is when the throttle is pressed the actuator is pulled in. Is that good enough? Or should I open it up and make sure its closing all the way?

Fritz Flynn

iTrader: (263)

Yep that's correct so now check the check valve (its one way so if you can suck both directions it's no good and they should always point away from what they are attached to back towards the engine) that goes to vacuum chamber and if that's not working properly or the chamber itself is leaking it won't hold vacuum while boosting and you'll vent the primary boost. Also try going full throttle to redline quickly release the throttle and go full throttle again and see if you can get any primary boost. If you can it's probably the check valve.

Finally check the CRV (primary turbo BOV) and make sure that's holding boost.

Typically if either of these things aren't working you should hear the boost venting so listen for air escaping.

corymarc.com

iTrader: (2)

Ok. So I checked all my check valves. They are new
And are all working.
I also checked my vacume tanks and they both hold
10 psi.
I also check the crv valve. I put 10 psi on small
Nipple and blew into the larger ends. It seems
to be working fine.
Do you think it could be the wastegate? If its not
functioning would I still get second turbo?

I also don't get and boost at idle with wot.

Any other ideas? Thanks for the help

corymarc.com

iTrader: (2)

would the turbo control solenoid cause this problem? The two solenoids in front of the uim are the only two that are not new.

corymarc.com

iTrader: (2)

I was searching to try and figure out why I’m not getting boost on my primary turbo and came across my own thread of the same problem from 12 YEARS ago. My car has been is storage for 5-7 years. Time flys by. I have done a tune up and changed all the fluids. Everything is running the same as when I put it in storage except I have to rebuild the brake master cylinder. But I still don’t have any primary boost.

my question is can a bad turbo control solenoid part number N3A1-18-74 cause me to have no primary boost? Or the solenoid that near the vacuum chamber and in front of the right side of the uim cause it? I think that one is the purge control?? All hoses and check valves and the vacuum take were checked today.

DaleClark

iTrader: (55)

9 times out of 10 no primary boost is a big boost leak. It doesn't take much at all - split in the Y-pipe coupler, crack in the hose to the intercooler, etc.

Primary boost isn't going to be affected by any solenoids or any of that mess. Don't concern with that now. Look for a boost leak. Sometimes you can see or feel it just revving the engine in the driveway.

Dale