Hey, new to the forum - bought a 93 FD Touring with the following mods:

- downpipe / midpipe / catback
-intake
-SMIC
-stock twins run parallel
-(Had a Petite ECU - replaced it with Microtech ECU)
-Boost controller set at low: 8 psi / high: 10 psi

Those are the mods the car came with, except for the Microtech. So my question is are those mods harmfull without a ported wastegate / restrictor plate? I'm wondering because the guy who installed the Microtech also had to take out the turbos (i imagine) to have them run parallel - so why wouldn't he just port the wastegate at the same time? Any thoughts on this...

 

Yeah, youre gonna experience creep that varies based on ambient temperature, engine load and some other crap. You should port your wastegate or add restriction for exhaust.

Ask the guy if he ported your wastegate while he had your turbos out.

 

Hes got a stand alone! You just need it tuned for what you have. You may want a better fuel pump, I would go for the Supra.

 

You Can Not Tune For Boost Creep

Boost creep changes based on external and internal conditions. You never know what its going to do. This is exaggeration. Most of the time boost creep is fairly predictable. Thats why full bolt on PFC engines tend to last for 30k miles. Most of the time the boost creep is accounted for. But, then one time its not and that one time is all it takes.

 

Well, does the car hold at 10 psi or not? If it does, even in cold weather, then you're fine. If it doesn't, then you'll need to port the wastegate or add a restrictor plate. This isn't complicated!

I just can't understand why anyone would run a full exhaust and a full standalone ecu just to run 8-10 psi.

 

That's the problem with boost creep - you can't tune for it since the boost never stops rising.

Revin-Rx, you need to take the car out with a boost gauge attached and see what the boost does. Try 4th or 5th gear and go full boost - watch the gauge and see if you get any spikes, and if the boost reaches a consistent max level. If it doesn't always stay flat at max boost, you need to port the wastegate.

Repeat the test when the weather gets cooler and if you install any other components that affect airflow (change in muffler, intercooler, intake, y-pipe, etc).

Dave

 

Why take a chance with all that money ,on some cold night a mustang will pass and there you go after it. And without you seeing it ,creep . Just pull the turbos out and port the hole it is not that hard .If you wont more saftey open the hole bigger and put in a bigger door, that is harder to do but worth the time .While in there block the unused ports and reshape the rest for better flow ,much harder to do but well worth the time and money for the welding .Why build the hot setup with full exhaust and put a restrictor plate in the pipe ?

 

Just waiting to break the turbos then Ill do the fancy stuff.

 

Yeah, i was wondering why he wouldnt' turn up the boost past 10psi. I told him i wanted 12 + psi on the twins, but he's adament that i shoudn't go past 10 w/o "other modifications." I take that to mean bigger injectors / fuel pump etc or w/e. But i mean, come on, i read of people having way more than 10 psi on the twins on this site all the time, what gives?

 

I dont understand why people get a 3inch exhaust then put a resrictor in it, totally pointless goign 3inch, might aswell have a 2.5inch and less turbulance.

Not just rex's either, cheap and shitty way of solving problems.

 

humm i wanted to port my wastegate n get a midpipe but one of the mechanics i go to he says its a waste and doesnt help... is this true?

 

What gives is that they upgraded their fuel supply. He's absolutely right about the 10psi thing - don't be stupid and blow your motor running boost beyond what the car can do.

Dave

 

You can run up to 1 bar (14.7 psi) on a healthy stock fuel system, although I wouldn't (and don't) go past 13 psi.

 

Hah, well if I could afford to do it right now Id weld in 2 low cell count metallic cats but as it stands I just need to get my car running.

And you go ahead and find a 2.5" exhaust for the FD. Youre being pretty narrow minded. Calling me cheap and shitty is pretty tactless too.

In my application its a bandaid and it works really well.

I award you no points, and may god have mercy on your soul.

 

Figured I should add one comment for the noob's reading this:

The stock fuel system will support a few extra psi, but the stock ECU does NOT! With a chipped ECU or standalone you can run up to 14 psi and I have the wideband data to prove it.

 

Do the job right, I was saying in general (as in all turbo'd cars with boost creep) whats the point in a 3inch system when you get creep when you could of had a 2.5 and no creep.

As you say no system is available for the FD in 2.5inch, so either put the cat back on or a JDM downpipe or do the job right and port the gate.

Skimp on an FD and your wasting your time. We all know that.

 

FG 3S2005 , Your mech in not on the right page, most likely in the wrong book . Port the wastegate .With the stock door most open the hole to 1.24 inch, My customers get 1.3 with a bigger door. My BMR -3 supersized in ported to 1.38 inch.I run 16-17 lbs on street gas,on the street . No creep at all .3inch pipes no cats . If you go non seq then use the prespool door ,it is 1/10 inch bigger that the wastegate door .

 

boost creep = killed both my engines

it's fatal

 

but i sequential.. so its a good idea to port the wastegate before the midpipe... humm how much would that cost me?.. and no i cant do it myself ill end up breaking something

 

Why are you asking us? We're not your mechanic!

It is several hours of labor to R&R the turbos and port the wastegate.

 

I can't run the cat because I don't have an airpump and city driving would clog that beast quick. Why pay more for the JDM DP when you can just restrict the exhaust(since you can't hind a 2.5" exhaust)? Its cheap, effective, and really hasn't been shown to cause any damage(atleast no more than the untreated boost creep).

 

Take the turbos out yourself and take them to a shop. They can take them apart and port the wastegate for probably about $50. That's how much it cost me and they also had to do some welding.

 

how hard/ long does it take to take out the turbos

 

You can have the turbos out in about 45 minutes.