teebeekay

iTrader: (4)

I did a compression test today. I got three solid bumps at about 50 psi on the front rotor. The plugs I removed form the rear rotor were soaked in fuel and the compression tested yield - nothing, the needle barely moved. I could actually plug the spark plug hole with my finger while the engine was cranking.

I guess this means new engine time?

DC5Daniel

iTrader: (10)

Yup, rebuild time

teebeekay

iTrader: (4)

So I've searched and am I correct that the basic summary of my options are as follows:

1) remove engine and send to shop for rebuild ($3-4K in parts/labor/shipping)
2) buy used/imported engine and swap in myself ($1-1.5k)- is this even an option? How reliable are these engines to just swap in like this? The benefit to this is that I also need a new transmission so there's appeal in buying a complete setup that I see listed on engine importers and ebay.
3) Remove, inspect and rebuild. From what the comments I've read so far in this thread I'm lead to believe that my motor should be rebuildable. There weren't any very catastrophic sounds like squealing or grinding when the apex seals went. The car also runs fairly smooth with the other rotor out of commission. What am I looking at for replacement parts? Am I right to assume that I need the "engine closing kit" listed on Atkins at a bare minimum?

Snook

iTrader: (12)

cheapest way is to drop in jdm motor/trans and no dealing with hassle of shop rebuilding your motor and doing it wrong or having issues a few months later with it blowing or not being able to decide what type of seals etc.
I think the jdm motors are low mile and it should be fine if you buy from reputable place that sells lots of motors. Plus then you can sell your used motor, if you take it apart its worth like 1k in parts depending on whats wrong.

I wouldn't send it out to a shop thats expensive in shipping and if you have an issue they arent local to support you. if youre going to have your engine rebuilt pick the most reputable place near you but again this is pricey as you stated probably 4500 installed and rebuilt. there will also be other parts they come across that should be serviced it could easily get to 5500. Now if youre trying to do a build of a lifetime you spare no expense and ship it off to the best engine builder and have it ported, pick the seals, water porting etc.

There is no way to know the condition of your motor. you say theres no compression in the rear, that means you blew 2 of the 3 apex seals completely at a minimum if not all 3! Your housing is likely trashed and probably your rotor too...your turbos are trashed. but theres no way to know without taking it apart. That's an extra 1000 to the cost of the build minimum right there.

Nakd n Fearless

iTrader: (4)

Addicted Performance Unlimited is selling 13brew kegs for $3000, no core required.
I guarantee your rear rotor and housing are going to be unusable since you get zero compression on it. You lost all three apex seals and they leave nasty scars on the way out the exhaust. You should consider the possibility of your turbines to have caught damage as well...

GoodfellaFD3S

iTrader: (213)

Give Ihor over at IRP a shout, he's here on the forum as IRPerformance.

I assist him with the porting and building on nights/weekends and have been since 2006....... We've got almost two hundred rotary engines under our belt, offer a limited warranty, and have a nice stock of good used internal hard parts saved up in order to offer many different options

Other good options are Banzai Racing and Rotary Performance out in Garland Texas. Addicted is also fast making a name for themselves. Be careful, because there are many not-so-good options---- we tear those down frequently with much head-shaking

Edit: Mr. Snook makes a great case for JDM blocks. However, I absolutely would not install without first tearing down for a thorough going-through. Our Japanese friends like to drive these cars hard and put them away wet. I'm talking lots of wear for the claimed miles, compromised coolant seals and other fun stuff. Just dropping in a JDM block and expecting a long life is akin to playing Russian Rotary Roulette

Banzai-Racing

iTrader: (11)

^ Agreed, a JDM engine is only OK for a core. I have torn down hundreds of them over the years and rarely do I find one that would have run if dropped directly in.

Snook

iTrader: (12)

On the JDM motor I take it back, these guys have much more experience. I only have one test case and it went well. I'd say they're so cheap that if you're doing your own R&R of the motor than it's worth the risk otherwise no. And if you're keeping the car for the long haul it's not the best route, just cheapest.

teebeekay

iTrader: (4)

I may just take the risk on a jdm motor.

I'll tear the existing engine apart first and get a feel for what is actually required. If i can't rebuild and need a new housing/rotor/turbo I'll import a JDM rotor and see if it fires after dropping in. If not I should at least have enough parts between the two to build one good motor. I need a new trans anyways and I'll still be leftover with extra parts to flip or have for just in case.

Nakd n Fearless

iTrader: (4)

You live pretty close to Howard Coleman Precision Rotaries which might save you some time and money. He builds high powered race and street rotaries. You have many good options listed here. Good luck buddy

Snook

iTrader: (12)

Howard, Goodfellas and Banzai are all extremely high quality options at your hands. All depends on what type of build you want and if you'll keep the car or make a lot of power.

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

and some JDM engines i've torn apart wound up being completely unusable total garbage that i'd have been given grief by a scrap yard for salvage prices due to the 10lbs of rust on the inside.

GoodfellaFD3S

iTrader: (213)

It all comes down to how much you value your time, and 'good enough' vs 'top quality.'

Also power goals play in here too. Stock 215 rwhp is a different story then your typical 400 rwhp single turbo/BNR street car build

Banzai-Racing

iTrader: (11)

Here is a good one we got from ALN JDM, nothing useable at all

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

from tiger japanese, out of toronto? canada.
quick flush of about 1.5 grand. managed to clean up the rotor housings and a few other items. even the turbo was mangled by foreign debris, the wiring harness cut, intercooler smashed... near total loss. i feel like they pulled it out of a pond after about a year, because it was apparently left to sit full of water! and i don't mean just the coolant passages. front housing was a carbon copy of this one.

yep, she woulda fired right up... lol

hit or miss, this one was a definite miss and they would not honor any warranty on rotary engines, returns or refunds. be sure to get a video of a compression test and have them roll the engine over by hand in the same video to show it isn't just full of oil to fool the results, and avoid tiger japanese.

teebeekay

iTrader: (4)

Over the last few days I've notice a strong gas smell coming from FD in the garage. Of course it hasn't been driven in the last few weeks. The car didn't do this prior to the rear rotor going out (if that's what happened). Earlier this year the injectors were cleaned and installed with new insulators/o-rings. All fuel hoses looked good and I made sure they were put on tight.

I do have the intake elbow off the car so I'm wondering if somehow fuel is trickling into the housing and working it's way out through the throttle body? Given the time is it somehow related to "blowing" the engine. Or a telltale sign that something else is wrong instead (is it common for a blown rotor to flood the plugs and not ignite)?

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

a blown rotor doesn't burn fuel, so it collects fuel and it sits in the chamber. you're likely just smelling it vent off.


never a bad idea to clean the injectors in case they are leaking with the engine off, the primary injector seal o-rings also are prone to leaking and giving off a fuel smell but generally only after running the engine in boost. the pulsation dampener can also leak fuel on top of the engine. since there is no pressure in the fuel system after a few days you are probably just smelling the fuel in the engine evaporating.

Snook

iTrader: (12)

Bingo. Its very likely the unburnt fuel sitting in the rear rotor. If you take all the spark plugs out and intake manifold off it will evaporate quicker and the smell will be gone at some point from your garage.

teebeekay

iTrader: (4)

Good to know. I was hoping I wouldn't have to diagnose something else. I'll pull the plugs and see if it clears out in a few days. It's been almost a week and the garage gets pretty fumey.