SupraKiller

Well I just got my new turbos installed and what I notice is that i get boost spikes if i push the pedal, it goes to like 15 in a second and then it goes back to 10 and it stays there after that. I was told that if I run higher boost than 10 psi for 30 seconds that I can detonate and blow the motor, but with a spike that lasts 1 second and recovers back to 10 psi Am I ok? I have a custom catback midpipe and stock air box with knn air filter.

darkside7

iTrader: (12)

i don't see a computer on your list. if you don't have one, i sugest you get one. right now your car is a walking time bomb.

potatobbq

it only takes a split second to blow your motor... if for that once second where boost spikes to 15, your car happens to runs too lean, you could possibly blow your motor right there. if you have a stock ecu, there's a higher chance of you running lean under high boost.


see... if you ask better questions, i won't give u stupid answers.

SupraKiller

Pottato Bq what your problem man, this isnt a stupid question, ****** ***** bastard.

brads

i believe he was saying that it wasnt a stupid question. sounds like he is referring to a previous post.

you have a free flowing exhaust, except for a downpipe. this is causing the boost spike. you need a upgraded ecu, boost controller, and ported wastegate to "try" to control boost a boost spike or creep.

SupraKiller

Ok I want to put my catalytic converter back in but I was told that there is a hole in the net looking filter inside, it had a hole in it. Anyway If I do have a bad catalytic converter right, well this poss risk to the health of the engine and turbos because of the heat it will generate? you see I have a downpipe already so I dont see how the heat from a damaged catalytic converter can go all the way up the downpipe and damage my turbos and engine? is it possible or Are these mechanics bull shiting me so I can spend more money and get an upgraded ecu? The catalytic converter inside has a net like filter, and inside there is a hole in it? does this mean that the catalytic converter is damaged?

potatobbq

fool... i'm saying it WASN'T a stupid question. how do u know if i'm a ***** bastard? the mechanics are not bullshitting you. did u read what i said? you can blow your motor in the split second u spike if it runs too lean. if you're gonna run a midpipe buy an ecu or at least a manual boost controller to prevent the spikes.

brads

i dont see how a hole on the inside of the converter would cause a problem. now if it was clogged then there be a problem.

SupraKiller

how would i know if its clogged? upon inspection from the hole to the inside of the converter there was a hole in the converters net, but when I bought the car the converter was on it and it passed air care. If the catalytic converter was clogged would the car still pass air care? what should i do to prevent this spike? should I purchase a high flowing cat? well that minimize it? or what? the spike lasts a second, and I was told that if I use octane 94 I wont run lean, so that is what I am using, and I was also told to run the car hard at night when the temp is cool, if the weather is hot and I spike then the warm air can cause the lean mixture. I dont know what to do , I dont have the funds to get an upgraded ecu because I just spent 3400 dollars on new stock twins. Help me someone, does anybody know how much a new stock catalytic converter is for our cars from mazda directly? I dont want to go backwards in mods, if anybody can help me or give me some sense of direction that would be really helpful.

SupraKiller

anyone else and there thoughts?

SupraKiller

BUMP

brads

well first off. the last thing you want to do on a cool or cold night is the car hard. colder air causes more boost. considering the mods you've done so far you want to make the car faster than stock. so, IMO stay out of the throttle until you can afford an upgraded ecu. then get a boost controller and port the wastegate.

93FD3S

SupraKiller, do you mind not using racial remarks ("******* ***** Bastard"). I find that very offensive man...thats not cool. Mostly everyone on this forum is on here for one reason, thats the love for RX7s!! If you want to come on here and ask for help thats cool, theres plenty of people who are willing to help out. But if you wnat to come on here and start using racial remarks then please leave, there is no room for immature people on the forum. Tony

SupraKiller

no man you got that all wrong, you see on cold nights my boost stays the same, its just that the car revs alot smoother and pulls alot stronger, being colder air outside doesnt mean that you will run more boost, if thats the case then something is wrong with the wastegate, for its not opening properly to release the exhaust gases, and that what causes the prolong spike or increase of boost. I dont have that now I have new wastegate and turbos and actuators.You see if i stomp on the pedal it will quickly spike to 15 and then come back to 10 and stay at 10 all the way to redline. Now if i go easy into the throttle and keep pressing it down harder the boost stays at 10 all the way to redline. I was told by my mechanic that if it spikes to 15 and comes back to 10 and stays at 10 psi its fine, as long as the spike is no longer than thirty seconds, otherwise the ecu will cut fuel and that means more boost and not enough fuel and bang goes the motor, but mine lasts a second and then its steady at 10 all the way to redline. They test drove it hard and noticed that it was detonating with octane 92 gas and was running lean, when the put octane 94 in the tank, there was not detonation and I wasnt running lean. So I dont know who is right here you guys or the mechanic, you guys say that a split second spike means bybye engine if the car runs lean, but how can i run lean when I am using the highest grade gasoline and i ONLY spike for a second then its at 10 all the way to redline? remember running lean occurs when the air coming is to hot and there isnt enough fuel to compensate which inturn brings on detonation. Running a car on a cold night eliminates any sign of detonation.

SupraKiller

bump

brads

whatever man. it doesnt matter if its "cold air" or "hot air", more than the right a/f ratio causes detonation. cold air is denser than hot air, which means more air. and 94 octane vise 92 is not gonna save you ***. you dont have to keep bumping your thread. im probally the only one that is reading it this late at night.

potatobbq

no man, YOU got that all wrong... brads knows what he's talkin about, on cold nights u will get MORE boost. i won't even explain to you why cause u don't like to listen. why even ask questions if u won't listen to answers u don't like?

brads: ... u see why i like to give this guy stupid answers? it's frustrating when people don't know what they're talkin about and won't listen to answers they don't like.

brads

i see pot.
hey "suprakiller" check this out https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...threadid=68640

skunks

i get that type of boost spike although mines is much higher. im getting my car on a dyno as soon as I can just to see how rich im running, i suggest you do the same

yellowbird

First off, a spike to 15 PSI is Bad Bad Bad. The Stock ECM has no clue what to do for fuel at those boost levels. I would not want to dyno a car with a Wideband just to see how lean it <might be> that was spiking like that. You see, I've been there, and done that. I had DP, MP, quiet cat back, and I was spiking before I had found this forum like 4 years ago, and did not realize the potential for ka-boom. One cool night, mid 70's I learned the hard way, got on it for a friend, then right after an upshift, the motor just stoped pulling, and ran like $hit. Result, rear apex seals called it a day. Never even heard any detonation, just boom, there goes thousands upon thousands of $. Also keep in mind that if the apex seals go in a big way those nice new turbos you just laid out cold hard cash for, could be a very, very expensive paper weight after they digest pieces of apex seal. Moral of the tale, spikes are wery wery bad. if you don't have the funds for an ECU upgrade, I would suggest pulling the pill out of the WG lines, yes, you'll be restricted to 7psi, but it will be a Reliable 7psi. That's if you are like me, and although you try, you sometimes just have to use some boost to get the point across to a ricer, or stang. You can also try playing with pill size, but the process of getting it right might not work out so hot. And BTW, it DOES NOT take 30 seconds for damage to occur. A few good detonation cycles in the same rotor chamber can do it, and at 6000+ rpm, guess how long it takes for a few combustion cycles to occur. Not very long. Just some food for thought
J

Alien7

iTrader: (1)

gee, I'm a '*****'. Does that make me a '******' bastard?' No wonder you have problems getting help.

Just because you get behind a keyboard doesn't mean that common courtesy is out the window when you're posting online. Grow up, kid.

black99

You realize that "***** bastards" designed and built that car that you're driving. And that most performance parts you buy for your car are designed and built by "***** bastards". (No offense to anyone of asian decent, just making an example)

I'd advise you to get off of the racial slurs. It's not a good way to make friends and actually a good way to get most of the forum pissed at you. Do you see me calling you racial slurs even though I am upset right now at your stupidity? No. The info everyone has already told you is correct.

Have a nice day.

Love you too... (I'm not gay, I just know you're really loving me right now)