please help me diagnose... i'm going crazy! (video)
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please help me diagnose... i'm going crazy! (video)
so i've been working on trying to figure out just what's wrong with this rotary for 2 weeks now and feel so close, but so far! it all started out when i found that the fuel lines were mixed up, the car started right up... i was pretty excited because the car was sold to me as a non-runner. but once it started it wouldn't idle or rev up worth a crap so i started doing some troubleshooting. i started with checking the compression, everything seemed great with about 100 psi on each rotor face. next i replaced the spark plugs and found that the knock sensor was unplugged. this significantly helped the idle, in fact it sounded really good... but still would only rev to about 2000 rpm where it would become very hesitant... i felt it was running way too rich or having a serious ignition problem. i started taking the motor apart to check the fuel injectors, they seemed pretty good but sent them off to get reconditioned and tested by witchhunter.
so i was hoping while the engine is all apart you guys could just take a minute and watch my videos and give me some input. i've been doing so much searching and it's funny b/c when i search for something i find about 3 more things to read about. what do you all think...
02 sensor?
fuel pressure regulator?
water/air tstat?
fuel filter?
i think what i'm going to do next is get a fuel pressure gauge and pressurize the rail to see what pressure i'm getting and if it's leaking fuel anywhere... like i said, everything is apart right now and i can check pretty much anything.
video at idle = http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oOcSyhQIhr8
video of revving = http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tukD3X-pXds
so i was hoping while the engine is all apart you guys could just take a minute and watch my videos and give me some input. i've been doing so much searching and it's funny b/c when i search for something i find about 3 more things to read about. what do you all think...
02 sensor?
fuel pressure regulator?
water/air tstat?
fuel filter?
i think what i'm going to do next is get a fuel pressure gauge and pressurize the rail to see what pressure i'm getting and if it's leaking fuel anywhere... like i said, everything is apart right now and i can check pretty much anything.
video at idle = http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oOcSyhQIhr8
video of revving = http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tukD3X-pXds
#2
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I'd check all the basics if you don't know the history of the car:
MAP sensor, (this could be causing the backfire)
spark plugs,
ignition wires, (be sure they're not switched too)
fuel filter, (shouldn't cause the car to blow smoke, but it's tough to reach so it probably needs to be replaced once you get the car running well)
Also, it looks like you've got some sort of cooling issue. Your coolant is too green (too much antifreeze, not enough water), for starters, and there's too much of it on the ground. The constant beep in the first video is from the Low Coolant alarm.
-s-
MAP sensor, (this could be causing the backfire)
spark plugs,
ignition wires, (be sure they're not switched too)
fuel filter, (shouldn't cause the car to blow smoke, but it's tough to reach so it probably needs to be replaced once you get the car running well)
Also, it looks like you've got some sort of cooling issue. Your coolant is too green (too much antifreeze, not enough water), for starters, and there's too much of it on the ground. The constant beep in the first video is from the Low Coolant alarm.
-s-
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I'd check all the basics if you don't know the history of the car:
MAP sensor, (this could be causing the backfire)
spark plugs,
ignition wires, (be sure they're not switched too)
fuel filter, (shouldn't cause the car to blow smoke, but it's tough to reach so it probably needs to be replaced once you get the car running well)
Also, it looks like you've got some sort of cooling issue. Your coolant is too green (too much antifreeze, not enough water), for starters, and there's too much of it on the ground. The constant beep in the first video is from the Low Coolant alarm.
-s-
MAP sensor, (this could be causing the backfire)
spark plugs,
ignition wires, (be sure they're not switched too)
fuel filter, (shouldn't cause the car to blow smoke, but it's tough to reach so it probably needs to be replaced once you get the car running well)
Also, it looks like you've got some sort of cooling issue. Your coolant is too green (too much antifreeze, not enough water), for starters, and there's too much of it on the ground. The constant beep in the first video is from the Low Coolant alarm.
-s-
Last edited by mattster03; 07-15-07 at 07:21 PM.
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it's very decent... R1 model to boot (not original CYM though). the body has been drilled for a Mazdaspeed body kit which i'm not a huge fan of, i'm debating if I can go back to stock or not. The interior needs to be buttoned up a little bit, but clean and functional. I'm pleased with the purchase so far .
#6
if your coolant is full and the buzzer still goes off than the wire is broken.
it tends to happen at the place were the wire goes in the wiring harness.
or bad sensor.
the way it runs sounds like the map sensor when you rev it but not at idle??
are you sure (all the) igniter's are firing? you can get a light that plugs into the spark plug wires and test them. i got one from auto zone.
it tends to happen at the place were the wire goes in the wiring harness.
or bad sensor.
the way it runs sounds like the map sensor when you rev it but not at idle??
are you sure (all the) igniter's are firing? you can get a light that plugs into the spark plug wires and test them. i got one from auto zone.
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yeah, i i'm looked at the wire and it seem in-tact, the sensor might be dead but that's not the biggest concern at this pt. did you mean plugs b/c i thought there was only one ignitor... but i will check for strong spark once i get it back together. i might just replace the MAP and see what happens, though it does seem to run pretty fine at idle, maybe it's just got issues when the vacuum is high. but you guys would say it sounds more like bad ignition rather than fuel?
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#10
SideWayZ The Only Way
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it's very decent... R1 model to boot (not original CYM though). the body has been drilled for a Mazdaspeed body kit which i'm not a huge fan of, i'm debating if I can go back to stock or not. The interior needs to be buttoned up a little bit, but clean and functional. I'm pleased with the purchase so far .
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yup, i'm aware. i did a resistance check on the coils as per the service manual required, they seem fine but i've heard you can never really know for sure. the igniter is tough to test so i may just want to try swapping it out if i keep having problems when i've got it all back together again.
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