Please Confirm---> I think I found the boost problem!!
#1
Please Confirm---> I think I found the boost problem!!
Alright guys, it all started when I hooked up a boost gauge last week to my FD and found out that my boost pattern is 7-4-7...when I should be at 10-8-10.
After extensive searches and having my eyes bleed from reading, I've narrowed it down quite a bit. Someone please confirm I'm on the right track here...
My mods are DP, street port, silicone hoses...stock ECU (until I fix this problem) I have 15,000 miles on motor and turbos.
Here's a list of thing I did in order to narrow this down:
1) Sprayed carb cleaner to check for vaccuum leaks with no luck. My vacuum is at steady 15-16 fully warmed up.
2) Check for leaks...and even swapped hoses off a friends healthy FD with no luck.
3) Checked for pills in the prespool and wastegate lines...found none and installed pills with no luck. Turns out I have them in the hard line. (crap)
4) Thought I had clogged cat and disconnected the DP from the cat...still same pattern. (but man it was fun)
5) Wanted to check my wastegate out, so I disconnected the bottom bleed hose and wow I got instant 10-12lbs before letting off (it'll go up forever seems like)...so I guess the wastegate wasn't "stuck open" before.
6) Hmmm...so at this point I'm thinking, maybe the wastegate solenoid is not working and it's stuck shut, not bleeding off the pressure from the actuator. So I swapped that with my friends good solenoid last night and STILL 7-4-7!!!
I'm gonna go nuts...is it the wires to the solenoid, or the ECU!!
Someone please help me out here, am I close!!
After extensive searches and having my eyes bleed from reading, I've narrowed it down quite a bit. Someone please confirm I'm on the right track here...
My mods are DP, street port, silicone hoses...stock ECU (until I fix this problem) I have 15,000 miles on motor and turbos.
Here's a list of thing I did in order to narrow this down:
1) Sprayed carb cleaner to check for vaccuum leaks with no luck. My vacuum is at steady 15-16 fully warmed up.
2) Check for leaks...and even swapped hoses off a friends healthy FD with no luck.
3) Checked for pills in the prespool and wastegate lines...found none and installed pills with no luck. Turns out I have them in the hard line. (crap)
4) Thought I had clogged cat and disconnected the DP from the cat...still same pattern. (but man it was fun)
5) Wanted to check my wastegate out, so I disconnected the bottom bleed hose and wow I got instant 10-12lbs before letting off (it'll go up forever seems like)...so I guess the wastegate wasn't "stuck open" before.
6) Hmmm...so at this point I'm thinking, maybe the wastegate solenoid is not working and it's stuck shut, not bleeding off the pressure from the actuator. So I swapped that with my friends good solenoid last night and STILL 7-4-7!!!
I'm gonna go nuts...is it the wires to the solenoid, or the ECU!!
Someone please help me out here, am I close!!
#3
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Originally posted by Beny
intercooler fittings...
intercooler fittings...
Along those same lines, however, did you check your intercooler to see if it is separated anywhere. The stock intercoolers have been known to separate at the crimp seams at the top and bottom.
#5
Originally posted by zUMIEz
He says he swapped hoses with a friend and I assume that is what he meant.
Along those same lines, however, did you check your intercooler to see if it is separated anywhere. The stock intercoolers have been known to separate at the crimp seams at the top and bottom.
He says he swapped hoses with a friend and I assume that is what he meant.
Along those same lines, however, did you check your intercooler to see if it is separated anywhere. The stock intercoolers have been known to separate at the crimp seams at the top and bottom.
Originally posted by areXseven
Check for crossed solenoid WG/PTC electrical plugs.
Check for crossed solenoid WG/PTC electrical plugs.
Does any body know how I can check to see if the actual harness to the wastegate solenoid is sending signals...?
#6
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Originally posted by PandazRx-7
Does any body know how I can check to see if the actual harness to the wastegate solenoid is sending signals...?
Does any body know how I can check to see if the actual harness to the wastegate solenoid is sending signals...?
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#8
I'm a CF and poop smith
did you try to use a manual/ball and spring type boost controller yet? perhpas the hole on the pill you have in the wg line is too big right now.
it only cost about 5 bucks for a bleader valve and like 15 bucks for a ball/spring type so its pretty cheap to try out
it only cost about 5 bucks for a bleader valve and like 15 bucks for a ball/spring type so its pretty cheap to try out
#9
Damon, I switched the solenoids with a good one last night and had the same pattern...came to the conclusion that it's the wires or the ECU. What do you think?
Montego, I actually used two different gauges in the last week...the one I use right now is a autometer.
Again, I was able to boost up when I had the wastegate shut... just no control. I can probably fix this with a manuel controller but don't want to "band-aid" an existing problem.
Edit: Sorry Damon...AND the wires, how do I do that??
Montego, I actually used two different gauges in the last week...the one I use right now is a autometer.
Again, I was able to boost up when I had the wastegate shut... just no control. I can probably fix this with a manuel controller but don't want to "band-aid" an existing problem.
Edit: Sorry Damon...AND the wires, how do I do that??
Last edited by PandazRx-7; 06-08-04 at 02:43 PM.
#10
Originally posted by skunks
did you try to use a manual/ball and spring type boost controller yet? perhpas the hole on the pill you have in the wg line is too big right now.
it only cost about 5 bucks for a bleader valve and like 15 bucks for a ball/spring type so its pretty cheap to try out
did you try to use a manual/ball and spring type boost controller yet? perhpas the hole on the pill you have in the wg line is too big right now.
it only cost about 5 bucks for a bleader valve and like 15 bucks for a ball/spring type so its pretty cheap to try out
I think I'll try the manuel controller temporarily just to confirm my thoughts about the ECU signals...
Quick question...manuel controller would let me cap the wastegate actuator bleed off right?
Last edited by PandazRx-7; 06-08-04 at 02:41 PM.
#11
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Originally posted by PandazRx-7
Montego, I actually used two different gauges in the last week...the one I use right now is a autometer.
Again, I was able to boost up when I had the wastegate shut... just no control. I can probably fix this with a manuel controller but don't want to "band-aid" an existing problem.
Montego, I actually used two different gauges in the last week...the one I use right now is a autometer.
Again, I was able to boost up when I had the wastegate shut... just no control. I can probably fix this with a manuel controller but don't want to "band-aid" an existing problem.
#14
Senior Member
If you say it works with the bleed disconnected, then it sounds like the solenoid isn't working. Easiest test for the harness:
1) Pull codes (is the wastegate solenoid code there?)
2) If not disconnect wastegate electrical connector
3) Pull codes again (makes sure the right one is connected)
Or bypass the wastegate solenoid with a needle valve.
1) Pull codes (is the wastegate solenoid code there?)
2) If not disconnect wastegate electrical connector
3) Pull codes again (makes sure the right one is connected)
Or bypass the wastegate solenoid with a needle valve.
#15
DGRR 2017 4/26-4/30, 2017
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I acturally have the same exact problem.. with my avc-r.. still have this issue.. just too lazy to fix it..
I was going to put my stock solenoids back on and let it control by PFC..
But I do have a question regarding to this issue.. If one of the lines say vac or wastegate lines is leaking, would it also cause this issue?? Besides the solenoids, anything else??
I was going to put my stock solenoids back on and let it control by PFC..
But I do have a question regarding to this issue.. If one of the lines say vac or wastegate lines is leaking, would it also cause this issue?? Besides the solenoids, anything else??
#16
Old Rotary Dog
It definitely looks like wastegate control - nothing is holding it closed.
Clogged/pinched vac line to the wastegate control? The "bleed line" is just connected to the intake elbow and has no vac/pres on it. Removing it should not affect boost levels.
It sounds like you have a blockage in this line.
Have you also verified all your check valves are pointed in the right direction?
-bill
Clogged/pinched vac line to the wastegate control? The "bleed line" is just connected to the intake elbow and has no vac/pres on it. Removing it should not affect boost levels.
It sounds like you have a blockage in this line.
Have you also verified all your check valves are pointed in the right direction?
-bill
#17
Originally posted by rpm_pwr
If you say it works with the bleed disconnected, then it sounds like the solenoid isn't working. Easiest test for the harness:
1) Pull codes (is the wastegate solenoid code there?)
2) If not disconnect wastegate electrical connector
3) Pull codes again (makes sure the right one is connected)
Or bypass the wastegate solenoid with a needle valve.
If you say it works with the bleed disconnected, then it sounds like the solenoid isn't working. Easiest test for the harness:
1) Pull codes (is the wastegate solenoid code there?)
2) If not disconnect wastegate electrical connector
3) Pull codes again (makes sure the right one is connected)
Or bypass the wastegate solenoid with a needle valve.
I wish I could pull codes...I've had a problem with my diagnostic system for a while now, but that's a different story. (it does give me a reason to think that all my problems are linked to the ECU though)
I think I'm going to check the wire from the ECU or maybe do a temporary swap...if I have no luck...than manuel controller it is.
Originally posted by wrankin
It definitely looks like wastegate control - nothing is holding it closed.
Clogged/pinched vac line to the wastegate control? The "bleed line" is just connected to the intake elbow and has no vac/pres on it. Removing it should not affect boost levels.
It sounds like you have a blockage in this line.
Have you also verified all your check valves are pointed in the right direction?
-bill
It definitely looks like wastegate control - nothing is holding it closed.
Clogged/pinched vac line to the wastegate control? The "bleed line" is just connected to the intake elbow and has no vac/pres on it. Removing it should not affect boost levels.
It sounds like you have a blockage in this line.
Have you also verified all your check valves are pointed in the right direction?
-bill
As far as the "bleed line" from the actuator, it's actually connected to a hard line that leads to the wastegate solenoid...if it was disconnected without capping the actuator side, then you would see crazy spikes...if it was clogged then you would see 7lbs.
Last edited by PandazRx-7; 06-09-04 at 11:34 AM.
#18
Originally posted by herblenny
I acturally have the same exact problem.. with my avc-r.. still have this issue.. just too lazy to fix it..
I was going to put my stock solenoids back on and let it control by PFC..
But I do have a question regarding to this issue.. If one of the lines say vac or wastegate lines is leaking, would it also cause this issue?? Besides the solenoids, anything else??
I acturally have the same exact problem.. with my avc-r.. still have this issue.. just too lazy to fix it..
I was going to put my stock solenoids back on and let it control by PFC..
But I do have a question regarding to this issue.. If one of the lines say vac or wastegate lines is leaking, would it also cause this issue?? Besides the solenoids, anything else??
If so, then I really need to make sure I find my problem before installation...
#19
DGRR 2017 4/26-4/30, 2017
iTrader: (13)
Originally posted by PandazRx-7
Question about the PFC...I'm gonna install one soon....do I absolutely need the solenoids?
If so, then I really need to make sure I find my problem before installation...
Question about the PFC...I'm gonna install one soon....do I absolutely need the solenoids?
If so, then I really need to make sure I find my problem before installation...
I'm going to check the wastegate line..
#20
Old Rotary Dog
Originally posted by PandazRx-7
As far as the "bleed line" from the actuator, it's actually connected to a hard line that leads to the wastegate solenoid...if it was disconnected without capping the actuator side, then you would see crazy spikes...if it was clogged then you would see 7lbs.
As far as the "bleed line" from the actuator, it's actually connected to a hard line that leads to the wastegate solenoid...if it was disconnected without capping the actuator side, then you would see crazy spikes...if it was clogged then you would see 7lbs.
I was actually thinking of the other line - the one that sources air to the solenoid from the intake line. Have you tried removing this line and seeing if there is a problem?
-b
#21
Originally posted by herblenny
which solenoids?? I did the simplification seq. system and worked beatufully.. until something happened and 7-4-7.. or nothing above 7..
I'm going to check the wastegate line..
which solenoids?? I did the simplification seq. system and worked beatufully.. until something happened and 7-4-7.. or nothing above 7..
I'm going to check the wastegate line..
I've been speculating that my problem revolves around the wastegate solenoid because if that's shut closed then the wastegate actuator opens the wastegate prematuraly and let's you boost to max 7lbs.
Now, if you've done other mods to your turbo system, I don't know if you still use these solenoids, so you need to check I guess.
#22
Originally posted by wrankin
and you are seeing 7 lbs, right?
I was actually thinking of the other line - the one that sources air to the solenoid from the intake line. Have you tried removing this line and seeing if there is a problem?
-b
and you are seeing 7 lbs, right?
I was actually thinking of the other line - the one that sources air to the solenoid from the intake line. Have you tried removing this line and seeing if there is a problem?
-b
What would happen if I unplug it...what should I look for? I'll try anything at this point to pin point this crap...
#23
Senior Member
Originally posted by PandazRx-7
I wish I could pull codes...I've had a problem with my diagnostic system for a while now, but that's a different story.
I wish I could pull codes...I've had a problem with my diagnostic system for a while now, but that's a different story.
Still need to ground the TEN pin.
#24
Originally posted by rpm_pwr
You can always pull the codes like we do in the RHD countries. The FEN signal in the diagnostics connector also flashes out the codes. You need to either connect a test lamp between it and +BAT or an LED in series with a 680 Ohm resistor between the same points.
Still need to ground the TEN pin.
You can always pull the codes like we do in the RHD countries. The FEN signal in the diagnostics connector also flashes out the codes. You need to either connect a test lamp between it and +BAT or an LED in series with a 680 Ohm resistor between the same points.
Still need to ground the TEN pin.
I never knew there was a way around it, I'll try that soon...
#25
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You could also T in to the various vacuum lines out of the solenoids. Just move your boost gauge's line around. Others have posted good success using this approach becuase it lets you 'see' what's happening while everything still connected.