BirdyRyu

iTrader: (4)

The two nipples attached to the 2 hoses snapped off, and surprisingly easily

I've been looking over the vacuum hose diagrams and don't have a clue what they are used for. Just in every diagram they are kept so I'm assuming it's important but I don't know why

What I'd like to know:
1. What those hoses go to.
2. What they do/What they are connected to does
3. What is that inlet piece called and part number
4. Is there a metal version because it is incredibly weak.

Also for the EBC, the write-up, http://www.rx7.org/Robinette/boost_avc_r_install.htm
says to just plug* the hoses to the stock solenoids. However in some of the diagrams I see the stock solenoids just deleted and the lines plugged from both ends.
Does merely capping off the solenoids from the actuators versus capping both those hoses and the stock solenoids from the other lines act differently? Diagrams show the solenoids linked to the system and maybe back to the inlet piece I broke but it's too close together to distinguish.

Help very much appreciated

dgeesaman

iTrader: (7)

1. I forget what one of them does but the other feeds the oil metering nozzles.
2. Oil metering is important. You could run premix in the meantime but I'd just fix it.
3. You don't want the part number, just buy one off the classifieds for $5. If you really want new, it will be insanely expensive from Mazda I'm certain.
4. Not that I've seen. The weakness comes from aging in the oven we refer to as the engine bay. A low mileage replacement should be sufficiently strong.

Boost control solenoids don't connect to this elbow. They connect close by to the metal tree that comes off of the aluminum compressor housing. It doesn't matter if the solenoids are left in place, except that with a stock ECU it will store codes for the missing solenoids.

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

One nipple is for the oil venting system, the other is for the oil injector nozzles on the housings.

BirdyRyu

iTrader: (4)

My main problem is that i have a track event tomorrow.
Do you guys think it is okay if i do a temporary fix by
1. patching the turbo inlet with electric tape
2. Running breathers on the hoses or teeing them together and connecting them to a breather

Thanks for the responses. I am stressing out for tomorrow's event....

Six Rotors

iTrader: (17)

Use metal tubing and fix it with epoxy

smoke wagon

iTrader: (4)

Yeah what he said. The same thing happened to me and i just cut a few 3/4 inch long tubes off of an old vac nest and used some epoxy covered in the right stuff. You should be able to get one for both diamiters on the metal nest. Cut the tube right after the flare so that when you place it in the elbow the flar will stabilize it and keep it from being able to be pushed to far in. You might have to open and clean the holes up with a drill however, make shur that you keep the holes tight. Its been this way for over a year now on my 7.

Ryan

dgeesaman

iTrader: (7)

I'd put premix in the gas tank in case your fix has any issues.

BirdyRyu

iTrader: (4)

Okay so I T'd the two hoses from the inlet pipe into one filtered breather.
I then ran 20 oz of amsoil 2 cycle saber on a full tank.
Hope this is an okay fix till I pick up the pipe.
Any issues I should be aware of between premixes since I read all sorts of different premix info.
100/1, 256/1, Injector cleaner. I haven't considered running premix yet so all this gets confusing.
How would I block off the OMP?

Dudemaaanownsanrx7

iTrader: (23)

The oil metering nozzles only need filtered air, thats why it connects in front of the turbo. The way you have it connected is perfectly fine and has no effect on the opperction of the oil metering nozzles. The other line is for crankcase vent and its fine how you have it as well. In fact even if the lines weren't connected to anything the amount of unfiltered air that could enter to the engine is very small. Its not a bad idea to premix anyway but there is really no reason for you to block off your omp. If you want to premix 4 ounces per tank is about right.

dgeesaman

iTrader: (7)

If you have the stock ECU I'd leave the OMP alone and get a replacement elbow. What you experienced is not very common and if you get a good replacement part it is unlikely to happen again.

Dave

BirdyRyu

iTrader: (4)

You guys are awesome!! Fix worked well and no issues. Thanks for the premix suggestion and clarification.
Track day was a good run.
Only blew threw 70% of tire tread on 1 set, even though we brought 2 and a half sets.

The stock water temp gauge on my car worked pretty well even with all the talk about the center weighted. It jumped up pretty fast but only because I was redlining in the skid pad area for too many donuts to count (Drift and Grip event). Ran one cool down pass on the course and it dropped fast too. Might be contributed to the fact I limited boost to 8-9psi also.

Day went without a hitch and I'm thankful. So many drift cars left from car issues, not so much on the grip side. Thanks for the help all. I'll be alot more careful around the new pipe once I get it. Only hit because I was messing with the vacuum lines to get the avcr on, so hopefully won't happen again. =]