N1atMax

iTrader: (4)

This was my first time and I have read the threads on this. I installed it last night and I have to say that it went in but it took more pounding than I thought. I used the hammer and socket method. I really thought it would be more of a tapping than using a hammer to pound it in. I felt inside and it seems to turn fine but I just hate to beat on bearings especially ones that are hard to replace. Thoughts?

DaleClark

iTrader: (55)

I use a pilot bearing install tool. Dude on the FC list back in the day made some and some other places have them now, really make it easier. But, yes, you do have to whack it in there.

Make sure you also install the oil seal or it's all for naught. Grease it well with bearing grease.

Dale

Turk82

iTrader: (17)

I was going to post up some questions on this shortly because my cars previous owner forgot the seal and my bearing came out in pieces.

Do I have to remove the clutch to replace it? The FSM says to remove the clutch but I think they did it because the section I found the pilot bearing in was the clutch section. From looking at it, it didnt look like I should have to remove the clutch.

theorie

iTrader: (31)

The hammer / socket method has always worked for me.

But...

http://www.mazdatrix.com/getprice.asp?partnum=49-MT-110

twinsinside

iTrader: (34)

^ That works great. I coulda used a socket but I was buying a flywheel stopper at the same time so figured what the hell.

Turk82

iTrader: (17)

Bumping this thread up so I hopefully dont have to start a new one for a simple question.

To remove and install the pilot bearing do I have to remove the cluch and/or flywheel? I really do not want to open that can of worms at the moment, I have enough of the car to put back together already.

Thanks for any help guys

DaleClark

iTrader: (55)

You don't HAVE to remove the clutch/pressure plate but it's recommended, otherwise you can't see what you're doing so well. That's easy anyhow, just 6 bolts. The flywheel doesn't need to be removed.

Dale

Sgtblue

iTrader: (16)

I would NOT try to do it with the clutch on. IMHO it's critical you get it in straight and the proper depth to get the dust seal on. As mentioned above, you can't see what your doing with the clutch in place. You also risk getting grease on surfaces you don't want grease on.
Removing the clutch isn't difficult...just a few pressure plate bolts. Though you will need a pilot shaft to line the clutch plate splines up.

Turk82

iTrader: (17)

Thanks for the advice guys, although it's not exactly what I wanted to hear. If I do remove the clutch and pressure plate it would be my first time doing that on any car. You mentioned lining up the splines, What exactly do you mean? I will check the FSM when I get a chance.

nashman69g

iTrader: (3)

while we're on this subject...

Does the oil seal direction matter? Is there a "correct" way?

Sgtblue

iTrader: (16)

I guess most call it a clutch alignment tool. Clutch kits come with a hard plastic version seen here: http://atkinsrotary.com/store/produc...11&cat=&page=1

Probably better explanations, but when re-installing a clutch you simply insert it thru the splines and into the pilot bearing and as you tighten down the pressure plate it keeps the clutch plate centered. And that makes it ready to accept the input shaft of the transmission.

Off hand I couldn't find anyone who sells just the alignment too. If you don't have one, try checking with any other RX7 owners you know in your area. Mine is lent out as I type this.

gdub29e

iTrader: (16)

+1

RENESISFD

iTrader: (13)

You can most likely get the clutch alignment tool from a local auto parts store. Just call them and tell them what you have. I got one from the local auto parts store when I needed it.


John

mr2dude9161

I bought a universal bearing driver and it works well for this.

Sgtblue

iTrader: (16)

I use the old bearing and a sheet metal hammer.