after applying high temp grease to the pilot bearing how far does the pilot bearing need to placed in the housing if i dont have the mazda special tool?

the FSM states .45-.48 inches, but is there a easier way to know once the bearing has reached correct placment position??

thanks guys

 

If I remember right just tap in the new pilot bearing in until they are seated with a 1/4 inch gap. Then you put on the little rubber seal and it should be flush with the lip seal.

 

thank you

 

Yup, just make sure there's room on the backside for future use of the pilot bearing puller, and that there is room on the frontside for the dust seal. I use a deepwell socket of the appropriate diameter (13mm) to tap it in

 

I suggest throwing the seal in the freezer before hand. Makes life much easier.

 

any getto way of pulling the pilot brg out without proper tools? I once read about using wet toilet paper? huh?

 

Haven't seen an RX-7 pilot bearing...but can you use a long bolt with washers to go in the I.D., put a nut on the other end, clamp Visegrip on and knock it out with a hammer?

 

I'm having a hard time picturing this but that wont work. I removed mine when I had my engine out by carefully cutting it with a dremmel and using various screwdrivers to break it and pull it out with needle nose pliers. It wasnt the easiest way to do it but it was the best way at the time since a pilot bearing puller from AutoZone didnt fit without modifying it. Its a pain doing it with the engine installed and with the car on jackstands. A blind hole puller is the tool you need to get the bearing out real fast.

 

If you can use a blind puller, then the long bolt and hammer or deep socket will work. It is easier to show than describe...works on the same principle. If you have lived in the 3rd world you would see this technique used often. I'd need to see a picture of where the bearing is to tell you what you'd need...I was assuming the project was on a bench/stand or floor...on the car, may require modified technique.

 

thank you guys for the suggestions. I ended up using a bearing puller and installed the new pilot bearing and oil seal with a 13MM socket with ease. Yes, I did pack hi temp grease on the pilot bearing before the oil seal was installed

 

Harbor Freight tools sells a pilot bearing puller for about $15, you have to grind down the "feet" a little bit, but it works perfectly after that. I have used mine a ton.

 

I'll just toss out a safety tib-bit for something to ponder. When you buy cheap tools such as H-F...you will notice things like the feet of puller are thicker/beefier than name brand pullers like Posi-Lock and SPX. The reason for this is that the cheap puller is made with...yep...you guessed it...cheap metal and manufacturing processes. Now, when you start grinding away to get that puller/wrench/whatever to fit, you are compromising the design strength of the tool. You now enter the "experimental" Test Pilot zone.

I have personally witnessed a "modified" puller used while pulling a flywheel snap apart with such force that it sent a chunk of metal the size of a .22 bullet into a fellas chest so deep that it had to be removed in the E.R.. He had used the puller "many times" without a problem. Good tool metal will bend not snap. Just something to think about if you find yourself cranking down on the business end of a tool in a high stress application...or even if you are standing close by.

You have been warned.

 

^^Great advice. 90% of the time Harbor Freight stuff is junk. The other 10% of the time it's fine, you just have to know what to get and what to stay away from.

I personally use the Mazda SSM tool and love it, but for your average one time use it's obviously not cost-effective.

 

I am talking about pulling a tiny pilot bearing, not a flywheel. I use the Racing Beat tool to pull the flywheel.
I agree with you about cheap parts, but this is one instance where cheap is better, or at least just as good as.

 

Goodfella is exactly right, you have to know which cheap tools you can use, and which ones you can't.

 

Yes, I am aware of what you are pulling. As I said, it is just something to think about when tweaking implements for use. Pulling something tiny today does not mean you will not be pulling something bigger and tighter tomorrow. I realize it is a slide hammer and not a bearing puller proper. But some folks may not have their thinking caps on when they grind metal off a tool...it was just a warning for the masses. My intent was not to chastise you.

Hell, I was telling the guy to use a bolt and washers for Pete's sake...just make sure it is Grade 8 or better

My apologies for bending the thread a bit...

 

No biggie.

 

And actually it is a bearing puller and not a slide hammer. But, it's really small, I can't imagine pulling anything of any size with it. But, you have a good point.