Pictorial write up of my engine pull and re-install.
05-09-03, 08:35 PM
#77
The mystery of the prize.
Heres a picture of my S5 T2 mazdatrix street port intermediate, similar view:
and the face:
I'm pretty happy with the mazdatrix ports, next time I'll port it myself though.
and the face:
I'm pretty happy with the mazdatrix ports, next time I'll port it myself though.
05-10-03, 12:32 AM
#78
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Busy on weekends (thats when I work usually), sorry for not being able to make it. Let me know next time... if there is a next time, I'll try to make time again.
05-10-03, 04:19 PM
#80
She lives!!!!
Lot's oh smoke the first start, but she lives!!!!!!!Thursday, 11PM and she's started right up. Filled my garage with lots of white smoke.
I sort of freaked out because I wasn't getting any oil pressure for about 60 seconds ... then I realized that my temperature was off the charts. Turns out that I had switched the oil and temp sender connectors. I went to swap them and broke the temp sender conector. A soldering iron and an hour later I had it back on.
I looked over the car and then took it for a 1 mile drive around my neighborhood. The motor runs great over about 2000 RPMs and is very smooth feeling. I love the sound that the down pipe adds. The thin walled DP (compared to the stock cast iron) adds the same pinkety pink that headers add to a small block Chevy ... very cool.
Nameless, I totally apologize for leaving you out of the build up / start up. I've been putting in about 2 hours each night after work. I was so close on Thursday night that I couldn't help myself. I just had to finish. Damn do I miss this car!!!!!
I've since taken the car on two 30 minute cruses around the neighborhood. I let the motor cool off in-between each one. The heat cycling has allowed the coolant hoses to form fit to the pipes and seems to have stopped the Evans coolant from leaking out.
I have three issues left. First There's about a tablespoon of oil under the car this morning. I'll have to jack it up and have a look. There's still (had it before the rebuild) a fuel smell when I shut the motor off. I thought that I had found and fixed this when I replaced the injectors. Oh well, I've already pulled the UIM, used the diagnostic connector (near the battery) to run the fuel pump and watch the leak. I'll pull the injectors today.
OK ... so this leaves me with my third problem. The motor idles rich and frequently stalls. This happens when cold and hot. I've noticed that the motor runs rough (when free revving) until about 2000-2500 RPMs. It basically idles (hunts) between 200 and 1000 RPMs. I've checked the two air valves on the UIM, they're both test out OK. My boost sensor checks out ... I'm getting a reading on my PFS control pad. Other ideas? A part of me suspects the primary injectors as I bough them used on this forum. I sent my original set off to RC today for cleaning. I just want to have a set that I can trust in the car. Hmm ... I'll pull the primary fuel rail and run the pump ... see if the injectors are leaking into the motor. That would explain things.
So, does anyone care to throw other suggestions at me? I've got the UIM off now and will shortly have the rat's nest out. What else should (rough idle and stalling) I have a look at?
James
Last edited by James Paventi; 05-10-03 at 04:28 PM.
05-10-03, 04:33 PM
#81
Originally posted by T2 Tsunami
So did you have any problems getting the vacuum lines and connectors back on right?, when are you going to start it?..any last minute preps?.
So did you have any problems getting the vacuum lines and connectors back on right?, when are you going to start it?..any last minute preps?.
For the most part, the vacuum lines and connectors were easy ... there's lots of room to work on things when the motor isn't in the car. The only last minute prepping was to triple check all of the water, gas, and oil lines.
Hey pengafoo and FD3BOOST, I have to admit, that is nice porting ... clean!
05-17-03, 08:07 PM
#82
OK ... injectors came back from RC. This time I used extra motor oil on the O rings and in the fuel rail. No leaks ... much better.
The teaspoon sized oil leak was coming from the oil level sensor. The rubber boot had been flexed back and forth one too many times. $72 from Mazdaformance and the problem is gone.
I drove the car a bit more, about 70 miles in total and have noticed that the idle is starting to smooth out. It's still hunting but now it's between 500 and 900 RPMs. I'll post again and let everyone know how long the break in takes. I.E. when the idle smoothes out.
I'm fairly sure that the I mistook the rich idle for oil / grease burning off (from the rebuild) ... also, the cultch engages so much sooner that I was dragging it at stop lights and encouraging the stalling ...
Until the motor breaks in ... later all ...
James
The teaspoon sized oil leak was coming from the oil level sensor. The rubber boot had been flexed back and forth one too many times. $72 from Mazdaformance and the problem is gone.
I drove the car a bit more, about 70 miles in total and have noticed that the idle is starting to smooth out. It's still hunting but now it's between 500 and 900 RPMs. I'll post again and let everyone know how long the break in takes. I.E. when the idle smoothes out.
I'm fairly sure that the I mistook the rich idle for oil / grease burning off (from the rebuild) ... also, the cultch engages so much sooner that I was dragging it at stop lights and encouraging the stalling ...
Until the motor breaks in ... later all ...
James
05-18-03, 10:52 AM
#84
Good job James. Glad that you finally have the car back on the road, and can start enjoying it.
How many miles do you have to put on it before you can REALLY start having some fun?
Regarding the idle problem: I had a street ported motor in my 82 GSL. It never idled well under 1000 rpm. I finally gave up trying to get it smooth at 750, and just set the idle at 1000. On the FD, I have had a little idle hunting since I put in the 9.5 lb flywheel. When depressing the clutch to come to a stop, the idle drops more quickly than before. Sometimes it would die. I idled it up just a little, but have not got it perfect yet.
Adam
How many miles do you have to put on it before you can REALLY start having some fun?
Regarding the idle problem: I had a street ported motor in my 82 GSL. It never idled well under 1000 rpm. I finally gave up trying to get it smooth at 750, and just set the idle at 1000. On the FD, I have had a little idle hunting since I put in the 9.5 lb flywheel. When depressing the clutch to come to a stop, the idle drops more quickly than before. Sometimes it would die. I idled it up just a little, but have not got it perfect yet.
Adam
05-27-03, 12:47 PM
#86
more trouble
OK ... I've discovered two more problems with this car ...
I was going to put these into another thread and then I realized that they belong in this thread. This car requires a lot more that a motor swap during a rebuild and I'm hoping that this thread's completeness will let everyone know what needs to be done to bring the car up to a base OEM (fully running) level.
STEP AWAY FROM THE OIL!!!! <lol> I over filed the crank case by about 1.5 quarts of oil after replacing the leaky oil level sensor. This caused oil to be blow into the engine in large quantities, make the car run hot (mild pinging from effective octane reduction?), and generally coat the air-box inside and outside with motor oil. I drained the extra oil off and drove the car for a few miles. What a concept, the car doesn't smoke every time I start it. I don't know what I was thinking ... maybe I was sleeping when I added the extra oil ... better too much than too little I suppose. GoRacer if I end up helping you with a motor rebuild, you'd better watch me around the oil <grin>
During the extra-oil-induced hot running period, I noticed that the fans blow air around the radiator / AC condenser in a circle. That is, the sides (where there is normally foam padding) of the radiator allow hot air from the back to be sucked into the front. When I replaced my radiator with a Fluidyne, I never thought twice about this foam padding. I've since replaced it with Frostking padding from Home Depo. It hasn't done much for highway speed cruising but has helped greatly with low speed AC operation and cooling. Total cost ... less than $10 with tax and about 2 hours time.
Currently my car is waiting (UIM removed) for a couple of the infamous vacuum solenoids. I've been having trouble starting my car after it was warmed up. Basically, it would flood requiring a peddle-to-the-floor clear out to start. I'm relatively sure that this is due to a faulty solenoid used to help with hot starts. It's not allowing any vacuum to reach the fuel pressure regulator. While I was digging in the Rats Nest, I decided to test all of the other (yet untested) solenoids. I discovered that the EGR control solenoid is on the verge of failing ... might as well replace it while I'm in there.
I'd like to go after the infamous 3000 RPM thing next ... stay tuned <sigh>
I was going to put these into another thread and then I realized that they belong in this thread. This car requires a lot more that a motor swap during a rebuild and I'm hoping that this thread's completeness will let everyone know what needs to be done to bring the car up to a base OEM (fully running) level.
STEP AWAY FROM THE OIL!!!! <lol> I over filed the crank case by about 1.5 quarts of oil after replacing the leaky oil level sensor. This caused oil to be blow into the engine in large quantities, make the car run hot (mild pinging from effective octane reduction?), and generally coat the air-box inside and outside with motor oil. I drained the extra oil off and drove the car for a few miles. What a concept, the car doesn't smoke every time I start it. I don't know what I was thinking ... maybe I was sleeping when I added the extra oil ... better too much than too little I suppose. GoRacer if I end up helping you with a motor rebuild, you'd better watch me around the oil <grin>
During the extra-oil-induced hot running period, I noticed that the fans blow air around the radiator / AC condenser in a circle. That is, the sides (where there is normally foam padding) of the radiator allow hot air from the back to be sucked into the front. When I replaced my radiator with a Fluidyne, I never thought twice about this foam padding. I've since replaced it with Frostking padding from Home Depo. It hasn't done much for highway speed cruising but has helped greatly with low speed AC operation and cooling. Total cost ... less than $10 with tax and about 2 hours time.
Currently my car is waiting (UIM removed) for a couple of the infamous vacuum solenoids. I've been having trouble starting my car after it was warmed up. Basically, it would flood requiring a peddle-to-the-floor clear out to start. I'm relatively sure that this is due to a faulty solenoid used to help with hot starts. It's not allowing any vacuum to reach the fuel pressure regulator. While I was digging in the Rats Nest, I decided to test all of the other (yet untested) solenoids. I discovered that the EGR control solenoid is on the verge of failing ... might as well replace it while I'm in there.
I'd like to go after the infamous 3000 RPM thing next ... stay tuned <sigh>
Last edited by James Paventi; 05-27-03 at 12:50 PM.
05-27-03, 02:31 PM
#87
Originally posted by adam c
How many miles do you have to put on it before you can REALLY start having some fun?
How many miles do you have to put on it before you can REALLY start having some fun?
05-27-03, 02:48 PM
#88
don't race, don't need to
Me TOO!! ******* ricers blowing by me with their little spindly arm mounted wings shaking in the 40 mph breeze, sitting so low they can barely peek over the wheel of their ricemobile, pimples EVERYWHERE, fat bellied little ho next to 'em wearing Brittney-gear when they clearly ought to be in burlap!!!
I'm at 600, so it's a liiiiitle better now. At least I know the primary WILL make 7 lbs briefly....
I'm at 600, so it's a liiiiitle better now. At least I know the primary WILL make 7 lbs briefly....
05-27-03, 05:55 PM
#89
Speed Mach Go Go Go
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Note to self: When James grabs oil, trade him for a beer. 
I sure hope I can do mine soon. I need to stop buying other stuff and stay focused. Although with all the things I want to do to bulletproof my engine, i'll be dateless and eating noodle ramen for a long time.
The easiest way to break in a new engine is a long freeway drive on "cruise control", or several drives.
I sure hope I can do mine soon. I need to stop buying other stuff and stay focused. Although with all the things I want to do to bulletproof my engine, i'll be dateless and eating noodle ramen for a long time.
The easiest way to break in a new engine is a long freeway drive on "cruise control", or several drives.
Last edited by GoRacer; 05-27-03 at 06:00 PM.
05-27-03, 06:31 PM
#90
don't race, don't need to
Easy, yes. But not necessarily the "best". In piston engines (yeah, I know...) you are supposed to vary the speeds you drive, and stay out of full throttle. What they reaaaly mean is to provide varying vacuum conditions to the engine's piston rings. This litterally causes them to rock back and forth under the different vacuum signals, which seats the rings more squarely in the bore. Heavy load causes the rings to move to positions they don't normally see (unless it's a pure dragster), and ultimately, daily stop and go driving hurts these rings that have been set under full throttle conditions. You find this most ofter as blowby out the tail pipe under acceleration (typically on Hondas!!!). It's of course worse if you have a turbo giving positive pressure.
From what I gather, the same thing is applying to the apex seals, in that the different vacuum conditions (part throttle ~ 10 in vacuum, decel ~23 to 15 in vacuum, moderate accel ~ 2-3 in vacuum) allow the seals to rock in their grooves and wear more squarely to the housing. Driving at one speed on the freeway in one gear has roughly a 200 rpm widow, with vacuum signal only between 13 to 7 inches vacuum (love that boost gauge!) unless going down steep inclines (unusual on most freeways). Going up the inclines usually trips the CC off.
So I'm gonna be a buthead and disagree with the cruise control idea, and even that freeway is the only place to break in. The temps don't vary as much on the freeway, which is another variable you want during break-in.
Just not too much temp variation
From what I gather, the same thing is applying to the apex seals, in that the different vacuum conditions (part throttle ~ 10 in vacuum, decel ~23 to 15 in vacuum, moderate accel ~ 2-3 in vacuum) allow the seals to rock in their grooves and wear more squarely to the housing. Driving at one speed on the freeway in one gear has roughly a 200 rpm widow, with vacuum signal only between 13 to 7 inches vacuum (love that boost gauge!) unless going down steep inclines (unusual on most freeways). Going up the inclines usually trips the CC off.
So I'm gonna be a buthead and disagree with the cruise control idea, and even that freeway is the only place to break in. The temps don't vary as much on the freeway, which is another variable you want during break-in.
Just not too much temp variation
06-04-03, 07:38 PM
#91
So ... the new solenoids came in and they seem to have helped with several things. First, the car doesn't backfire anywhere near as much as it used to. Second, hot starts are a lot easier ... no more engine flooding. Third, when I release the throttle the RPMs drop much slower than before. Actually, they rapidly drop to 1500 and then slowly fall from there. Last, the solenoid swap seems to have helped my 3000 RPM hesitation a bit ... I don't know why, but it's been reduced to the point where it's not very annoying. That is it was a serious throw you forward in your seat lurch in the past, now it's just a mild burp. =)
My idle has smoothed out considerably during the last 600 miles (total on the rebuilt). I've opened the secondary intake butterfly by 1/4 screw turn. This has bumped the idle to 850RPMs. I haven't had a single stall since ... just the occasional misfire at idle.
Well, that's it for a while ... until 2K miles when I can go full throttle and tune / dyno the car.
My idle has smoothed out considerably during the last 600 miles (total on the rebuilt). I've opened the secondary intake butterfly by 1/4 screw turn. This has bumped the idle to 850RPMs. I haven't had a single stall since ... just the occasional misfire at idle.
Well, that's it for a while ... until 2K miles when I can go full throttle and tune / dyno the car.
Last edited by James Paventi; 06-04-03 at 07:40 PM.
06-26-03, 12:27 AM
#92
Hey all,
I now have 1000 miles on the car. I've added a Home Depo Hyperground setup as well as following the suggestions in this thread:
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...hreadid=170731
After the above I dialed 10% fuel out of the mix at idle and ... my car now purrs like a kitten ... it idles better than my stock motor ever did! I'm amazed, given that I have "small" streetport and 9.5lb flywheel.
I'll link to the ground setup when I have time to write up my work ...
I now have 1000 miles on the car. I've added a Home Depo Hyperground setup as well as following the suggestions in this thread:
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...hreadid=170731
After the above I dialed 10% fuel out of the mix at idle and ... my car now purrs like a kitten ... it idles better than my stock motor ever did! I'm amazed, given that I have "small" streetport and 9.5lb flywheel.
I'll link to the ground setup when I have time to write up my work ...
06-26-03, 06:21 PM
#93
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what an amazing thread james!
I am looking at buying an fd this weekend with a brand spanking new motor. I hope i never have to go through what you have, as i know nothing about engines.
Major Kudos to you.
I am looking at buying an fd this weekend with a brand spanking new motor. I hope i never have to go through what you have, as i know nothing about engines.
Major Kudos to you.
01-23-06, 12:38 AM
#94
I just HAD to bring this thread back to life, simply b/c it's by FAR one of the greatest threads I've ever come across on this forum (or any other forum at that). And the step-by-step pics... just WOW. Hopefully this bump will help others to continue to utilize this excellent writeup that James was so kind to take the time and make. 
~Ramy
PS: Mods, can we have this added to the FAQ's or something?? Kinda surprised this isn't in the archive...
~Ramy
PS: Mods, can we have this added to the FAQ's or something?? Kinda surprised this isn't in the archive...
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