SWAT81

iTrader: (14)

I'm still kind of new to learning about RX-7s, since my car is currently in the shop getting a blown engine fixed I was wondering which of the following parts should I get for each category? Any suggestions?

Radiator

Clutch

Blowoff Valve

Silicone/Steal Braided Meshlines

Pullies

Battery

Intercooler (front or top mount?)

Intake System (want to get rid of factory intake!)

Thanks guy!

twinturboteddy

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

I would suggest you keep your stock air box for now.

As for the IC, unless you have an upgraded ECU don't worry about it. If you want to upgrade it, I would look at the M2/ASP MED SMIC.

As for the battery, unless you are forced to relocate it, just leave it.

For the rest, I agree with TTT.

SWAT81

iTrader: (14)

Alrighty, thanks for the info guys! My battery already has been relocated to my trunk due to my previous owner blowing the battery up from overheating.

Someone once told me that having a front mount IC is bad due to blocking the air flow to the radiator? so they recommanded me using a top mount IC. Is this true?

Also what does it mean that I have to take out my kat for new pullies. I just wanted to have red pullies to match my other parts in the engine bay

Oh also, I wanted to take my intake box out and have duel aftermarket intakes. Its looks awsome to have two cones. Is this possible? Or am I jumping over my head here?

Thanks again for answering my questions!

MR_Rick

iTrader: (7)

twinturboteddy

first i thought these were legit questions.

Now i'm doubtful.

a catylitic convert is not spellled kat. Where the **** did you pull that out of.

You want an aftermarket intake because you think it looks good. Great.

Putting an intercooler will not block air from the radiator. WTF do you think.

jpandes

Going for SHOW, not taking into considering GO....

jpandes

Swat81,

Take a look at these two sites:

http://www.rx7turboturbo.com/robrobinette/

http://www.scuderiaciriani.com/rx7/index.html

Better yet, print them out and study them..j/k

jpandes

http://www.rx7turboturbo.com/robrobi...od_pro_con.htm

Sprockett

Why is that?

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

The stock BOV is just fine (until you move to a single turbo or maybe some high boosting upgraded twins). Replacing the stock BOV doesn't help performance in any way, it's just something to do if you want to...

SWAT81

iTrader: (14)

I do ofcourse want performace as well as looks, I just want to do it right the first time since I don't want to do it over later on unless required. Why do people so hostile to new beginners on the 7s? I'm sure you were at some point a NewB at this stuff as well.

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

If you want to upgrade your intake, the Blitz Intake looks the best under the hood IMO:



As far as the pullies, I think you can purchase them separately from SR Motorsports:

http://www.srmotorsports.com/sr93plly.html

However, the entire kits are designed to remove the air pump (as TTT said above). There is only one "kit" that I know of which is designed to work with the air pump and it's not "colored". It's the TKT Pulley Kit from Pettit Racing (which I'm using).

As for the FMIC blocking air to the radiator, yes that happens. So usually with going with a FMIC, and aftermaket radiator is required to help that problem out. IMO, unless you "need" a FMIC, I would look into the M2/ASP Medium SMIC. You will get the same performance increase without the cooling problems.

Engberg

I agree with Mahjik, you are putting the IC infront of the Radiator you are obviously going to block flow. Not completely but it will happen. Running hard with a FMIC and stock cooling system could be bad news. I think your choices of parts really depends upon you ultimate plans with the car. Dont get something you are just going to have to replace when you upgrade again. What I mean is if you later decide to go ***** to the walls 400 hp single turbo set up you are going to want the front mount. If you are keeping the stock twins and not racing much a new radiator is not imparative but I'd recommend a water temp gauge incase you run her hard on occasion. Also I saw no mention of ECU, if you are planning on running the intake, intercooler, and not sure if you have a DP or catback you are gona need an ECU unless you take measures to keep the boost at stock levels.

I think if you write up what your goals are for the car and what you have already we can give some more specific advice.

Kiflin

He just about summed it all up right in there.

I personally would go with the M2 radiator and intercooler though, the smic.

SWAT81

iTrader: (14)

I thought Fluidyne was the best radiator for RX7s? Are the Greddy's IC any good?

I've also read up on the site that I was given above and it was real helpful information thank you. I'm assuming the airpump is only useful to reduce the pollution rate and has no significant purpose? I wouldn't fail emissions without that right?

I also found an awsome place in Long Island that fixes RX-7s and all other sorts of exotic cars so if you like to know email me at CougerF9mm@hotmail.com

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

The Fluidyne is a good radiator for the FD. It's a drop in replacement that doesn't need any extra "finese" to fit.

GReddy IC's are good. However, Blitz is about the only FMIC that doesn't require any cutting for fitment.

As far as the air pump and emissions. Yes, the air pump is active from idle to about 3200 rpms. It is designed to help with emission. Whether or not it will cause you to fail an inspection depends on what type of car inspection your state has...

My state only does a visual check for a catalytic converter, no actual emissions testing. Some states don't have any visual or emissions testing at all. If your state does actual emissions testing then you will fail without the air pump (and some sort of cat whether stock or hi-flo).

Some people don't mind and either bride the inspection people to pass the car, or keep their stock parts laying around just so they can install them for inspection time.

SWAT81

iTrader: (14)

So basically I should get Fluidyne radiator and a Blitz FMIC? Thank you for the useful info Mahjik

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

IMO, you should go for a M2/ASP SMIC (Large since you already have your battery relocated). However, the Blitz FMIC will require the least amount of finese to install (as far as I know when it comes to FMIC installs).

The Fluidyne radiator is good. So are all the other ones so you really can't go wrong. However I would prefer the Fluidyne since it's a drop in replacement.

blown

I don't see a street-port anywhere in your list. U might as well have that done while u get the engine rebuilt

SWAT81

iTrader: (14)

Wouldn't a street port require a new ECU? I don't got the money for that at the moment, unless a new ECU has a reasonable price range. Which I doubt~

SWAT81

iTrader: (14)

I think I would prefer getting the Fluidyne since its a drop in replacement instead of the hassle of getting it custom to fit.

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

Most people get an aftermarket ECU with upgrading the IC. A street-port isn't necessary unless you want one. Many people have put down good horsepower without them.

As far as the upgraded ECU, you need to look into a new ECU if you plan on going past stock boost levels. If you are going to keep the car at the stock boost level, the stock ECU will be fine (which can be difficult depending on your mods).

If I were you, if you aren't going to upgrade your ECU right way, I would stay away from upgrading your IC and intake for now.

SWAT81

iTrader: (14)

Hmmm ok is there a way to reprogram the stock ECU to be able to handle these mods I"m planning to get or what would be a good ECU you get? Once again thank you for helping me out here ^_^

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

Pettit, M2 and Rotary Performance (Texas) all sell reprogrammed ECU's. I'm currently using a Pettit ECU myself.

The Pettit ECU cost around $700 for their ECU upgrade:

http://www.pettitracing.com/sections....html#0303-506

However, there are two ways this (and the other reprogrammed ECU upgrades) works:

1. You send them your ECU and $700. They send you back a reprogrammed ECU.

2. You send them $700 AND a core charge fee of around $400 and they send you a reprogrammed ECU. You get your core charge fee of $400 (or whatever it is) back when you send them back your removed stock ECU.

Most of the other places require your ECU first.