Option for sealing throttle coolant bypass on the block
#1
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Option for sealing throttle coolant bypass on the block
I deleted the bypass on the throttle body and I don't know what to do about sealing the entries on the block I though about using caps but I don't think they will hold up to time and pressure, I've though about threading it and using a plug for now I just have a hose looping them together. What have you guys used?
#4
Rotary Freak
Believe it's been tapped 12x1.75 (?), and a ball valve installed. We've had that line split in the past, when running the stock system, rust on the nipple and assuming a line off a import motor was good, probably contributed.
#5
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The only problem I see with tapping it while the motor isn't torn apart is you could get shards of cast iron in the cooling system when cutting the threads. If the plates were separated from the engine, say during a rebuild, then it would be easier to avoid any contaminates getting in the engine.
#7
The problem is that the rubber hose coolant line from the block to the throttlebody is damned near inaccessible with the engine in the car.
The end of the hose that goes onto the throttlebody is no problems.
But the end that goes down onto the barb on the back of the block is not possible to reach with the engine in the car, and all the stock accessories bolted on. The firewall is in the way, and the barb on the block is buried down too deep to reach the clamp.
Unless I am missing something really obvious here?
The end of the hose that goes onto the throttlebody is no problems.
But the end that goes down onto the barb on the back of the block is not possible to reach with the engine in the car, and all the stock accessories bolted on. The firewall is in the way, and the barb on the block is buried down too deep to reach the clamp.
Unless I am missing something really obvious here?
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#8
Rotary Freak
The only problem I see with tapping it while the motor isn't torn apart is you could get shards of cast iron in the cooling system when cutting the threads. If the plates were separated from the engine, say during a rebuild, then it would be easier to avoid any contaminates getting in the engine.
You probably won't be able to use a standard tap holder with the engine in the car, unless you do half turns or less forever. I normally use a long, collet style T bar type to clear all the crap.
#9
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The problem is that the rubber hose coolant line from the block to the throttlebody is damned near inaccessible with the engine in the car.
The end of the hose that goes onto the throttlebody is no problems.
But the end that goes down onto the barb on the back of the block is not possible to reach with the engine in the car, and all the stock accessories bolted on. The firewall is in the way, and the barb on the block is buried down too deep to reach the clamp.
Unless I am missing something really obvious here?
The end of the hose that goes onto the throttlebody is no problems.
But the end that goes down onto the barb on the back of the block is not possible to reach with the engine in the car, and all the stock accessories bolted on. The firewall is in the way, and the barb on the block is buried down too deep to reach the clamp.
Unless I am missing something really obvious here?
#10
RX-7 Bad Ass
iTrader: (55)
The problem is that the rubber hose coolant line from the block to the throttlebody is damned near inaccessible with the engine in the car.
The end of the hose that goes onto the throttlebody is no problems.
But the end that goes down onto the barb on the back of the block is not possible to reach with the engine in the car, and all the stock accessories bolted on. The firewall is in the way, and the barb on the block is buried down too deep to reach the clamp.
Unless I am missing something really obvious here?
The end of the hose that goes onto the throttlebody is no problems.
But the end that goes down onto the barb on the back of the block is not possible to reach with the engine in the car, and all the stock accessories bolted on. The firewall is in the way, and the barb on the block is buried down too deep to reach the clamp.
Unless I am missing something really obvious here?
I've done a number of these hoses on the car with the rat's nest and everything there. It's not super easy, but it's far from impossible.
Now, if you foolishly replaced the hose clamp with a worm drive clamp, forget it.
To answer the original question, loop the hose from the back of the block to the water pump housing. That's the easiest and actually most reliable way to do it. Welding it shut can be problematic (pinhole leaks), rubber caps ALWAYS fail, just loop it.
Dale
Dale
#15
Rotary Freak
Nipple is 10mm OD with sub 1mm wall thickness at a guess....if you could without destroying it, the poofteenth of material that remains after the threading operation (what thread?) would be less reliable than retaining the hose.
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