ONLY an expert can help me.
07-18-02, 02:21 PM
#1
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ONLY an expert can help me.
Hey again its me,
To start off the problem, its a lumpy idle. This only occurs say the kind of driving you do through a busy drive-thru for fast food. When I budge the car a car length, the idle likes to go down to 490-500rpm then back up to 700rpm where it evens out and becomes normal when I'am coming to a stop. Almost like the car wants to shut off but it doesnt. I have no idea whats causing this. Could it be the clutch switch, faulty fuel pulsation dampner? I have 35k miles on new turbos and 25k on new engine. Its not a good idler when driving like this and it really annoys me. Say the a/c is on its fine cause it bumps the idle rpm's to 1100 and 900 which is normal. So it doesnt happen then. Has anybody expierenced this? This is my 3rd time asking in 2 months time. I guess this is a hard diagnostic for people. Please Iam sitting here dyeing for help.
Also my sig. says M2 ECU stage 3 but its not in yet so Iam still using the stock ecu.
My non-seq. conversion hasnt happened yet either, just waiting on someone to come help me.(93FDS3)
To start off the problem, its a lumpy idle. This only occurs say the kind of driving you do through a busy drive-thru for fast food. When I budge the car a car length, the idle likes to go down to 490-500rpm then back up to 700rpm where it evens out and becomes normal when I'am coming to a stop. Almost like the car wants to shut off but it doesnt. I have no idea whats causing this. Could it be the clutch switch, faulty fuel pulsation dampner? I have 35k miles on new turbos and 25k on new engine. Its not a good idler when driving like this and it really annoys me. Say the a/c is on its fine cause it bumps the idle rpm's to 1100 and 900 which is normal. So it doesnt happen then. Has anybody expierenced this? This is my 3rd time asking in 2 months time. I guess this is a hard diagnostic for people. Please Iam sitting here dyeing for help.
Also my sig. says M2 ECU stage 3 but its not in yet so Iam still using the stock ecu.
My non-seq. conversion hasnt happened yet either, just waiting on someone to come help me.(93FDS3)
07-18-02, 05:28 PM
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IF its the TPS is there a way I can fix it or will I have to buy another one. How much is the average price new and used? A vacuum leak, maybe......I get about 16 vacuum on the boost guage which seems to be normal for me. Also when the car is off the needle sets on 1 vacuum not on the space between vacuum and boost, is it not calibrated correct?
Phantom autometer boost gauge.
Phantom autometer boost gauge.
07-18-02, 10:44 PM
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why dont you raise the idle of the car using the idle control screw. all you need to do is jump a wire between ground and ten in the diagnostic box. start the car in neutral and turn the idle screw untill you raise the rpm to around 900 at idle without any accessories on (fan, ac etc).
second of all: you need to know that when you come to a stop using your brakes your idle will dip down a little right before the end, and then rise a little bit. the car is programmed to do so. it helps to stop the car more effectively.
if you had a vacuum leak, or if your tps were off, you would be idling at a lot more than 700 rpms (more like 1600-2500). i wouldnt think its those things.
second of all: you need to know that when you come to a stop using your brakes your idle will dip down a little right before the end, and then rise a little bit. the car is programmed to do so. it helps to stop the car more effectively.
if you had a vacuum leak, or if your tps were off, you would be idling at a lot more than 700 rpms (more like 1600-2500). i wouldnt think its those things.
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07-19-02, 10:05 AM
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Originally posted by redrotaryrock8
why dont you raise the idle of the car using the idle control screw. all you need to do is jump a wire between ground and ten in the diagnostic box. start the car in neutral and turn the idle screw untill you raise the rpm to around 900 at idle without any accessories on (fan, ac etc).
second of all: you need to know that when you come to a stop using your brakes your idle will dip down a little right before the end, and then rise a little bit. the car is programmed to do so. it helps to stop the car more effectively.
if you had a vacuum leak, or if your tps were off, you would be idling at a lot more than 700 rpms (more like 1600-2500). i wouldnt think its those things.
why dont you raise the idle of the car using the idle control screw. all you need to do is jump a wire between ground and ten in the diagnostic box. start the car in neutral and turn the idle screw untill you raise the rpm to around 900 at idle without any accessories on (fan, ac etc).
second of all: you need to know that when you come to a stop using your brakes your idle will dip down a little right before the end, and then rise a little bit. the car is programmed to do so. it helps to stop the car more effectively.
if you had a vacuum leak, or if your tps were off, you would be idling at a lot more than 700 rpms (more like 1600-2500). i wouldnt think its those things.
See I do know that it's going to dip a little, but the whole car shaking about to shut off isn't a little. I've been in many other rx7's and they do dip in rpm's coming to a stop but not as much as mine, I do think my idle is low so I will be messing with it, thanks guys for you help. Finally.
07-19-02, 10:19 AM
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Originally posted by P'cola FD
Look in the service manual, section F I believe. It has the procedure for adjusting your TPS. Not a hard job at all.
Look in the service manual, section F I believe. It has the procedure for adjusting your TPS. Not a hard job at all.
07-19-02, 10:34 AM
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Originally posted by luneytune
First I would set the idle by the book, page F17 or 18 before going into tps. Have you adjusted your idle by the book?
First I would set the idle by the book, page F17 or 18 before going into tps. Have you adjusted your idle by the book?
07-19-02, 10:41 AM
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Originally posted by redrotaryrock8
why dont you raise the idle of the car using the idle control screw. all you need to do is jump a wire between ground and ten in the diagnostic box. start the car in neutral and turn the idle screw untill you raise the rpm to around 900 at idle without any accessories on (fan, ac etc).
second of all: you need to know that when you come to a stop using your brakes your idle will dip down a little right before the end, and then rise a little bit. the car is programmed to do so. it helps to stop the car more effectively.
if you had a vacuum leak, or if your tps were off, you would be idling at a lot more than 700 rpms (more like 1600-2500). i wouldnt think its those things.
why dont you raise the idle of the car using the idle control screw. all you need to do is jump a wire between ground and ten in the diagnostic box. start the car in neutral and turn the idle screw untill you raise the rpm to around 900 at idle without any accessories on (fan, ac etc).
second of all: you need to know that when you come to a stop using your brakes your idle will dip down a little right before the end, and then rise a little bit. the car is programmed to do so. it helps to stop the car more effectively.
if you had a vacuum leak, or if your tps were off, you would be idling at a lot more than 700 rpms (more like 1600-2500). i wouldnt think its those things.
Vac leak doesnt alway make that much difference. I had 2 nipples on the uim that I capped and the caps blew off. My vac had droped to about 14 and I had a slight rough idle but it held at 900 like a rock. A small vac leak affects the smoothness of idle but wont always raise the idle real high unless its a huge leak.
I'd look for uim vac leaks and try adjusting the air bleed screw. The good thing about the air bleed screw is you can count you turns you've made and go back to the original setting if ti doesnt help.
STEPHEN
07-19-02, 10:43 AM
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Originally posted by SPOautos
Vac leak doesnt alway make that much difference. I had 2 nipples on the uim that I capped and the caps blew off. My vac had droped to about 14 and I had a slight rough idle but it held at 900 like a rock. A small vac leak affects the smoothness of idle but wont always raise the idle real high unless its a huge leak.
I'd look for uim vac leaks and try adjusting the air bleed screw. The good thing about the air bleed screw is you can count you turns you've made and go back to the original setting if ti doesnt help.
STEPHEN
Vac leak doesnt alway make that much difference. I had 2 nipples on the uim that I capped and the caps blew off. My vac had droped to about 14 and I had a slight rough idle but it held at 900 like a rock. A small vac leak affects the smoothness of idle but wont always raise the idle real high unless its a huge leak.
I'd look for uim vac leaks and try adjusting the air bleed screw. The good thing about the air bleed screw is you can count you turns you've made and go back to the original setting if ti doesnt help.
STEPHEN
07-19-02, 11:59 AM
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air bleed screw is what i referred to as the idle speed control screw. its located at the bottom of throttle body, underneath the intake arm. all you need is a regular screw driver, and perhaps a mirror. but, remember to jump ground and ten in the diagnostic box when you adjust the screw. and when your done, remember to unjump the wires before you take it for a spin, or else you will notice that under some conditions your engine check light will go crazy (as in crazy).
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