I own a 1993 JDM RX7 for 3 and half year and all this time I try to solve issues with my idle and driveability settings. Now my car is completely stock with airbox, air pump, stock catback and aftermarket catalyst. All emission stuff is here so as stock ECU.
Symptoms are:
1) no electrical load compensation when turning on lights and AC. Idle slightly drops but then slowly recovering to idle target speed. With PFC it was OK, rpm bumps just after EL aplied, there was no rpm drop. So I don't think electrical load module is an issue.
2) car dies starting hot after heatsoak (10-15 minutes drive, then shut off, 10 minutes rest and then start up). Car start up fine and quick, RPM bumps to about 1100 rpm and then slowly drops until car die. I can prevent car from dying applying throttle but it is not how it should be. When I was using PFC car started up fine too but didn't die. It only had very rough idle for about 30 sec then it idled fine.
3) It has small buck while on/off throttle under low rpm conditions (like city traffic or parking lot). Very annoying. I recently changed my diff bushings with poly and changed cracked PPF, engine mounts are stock and in good conditions. Shocks are stock from touring version (soft). So it is not drivetrain issue.
4) I can't start a car cold from first atempt. How it looks: key on, wait for 3 second, cranking for 3-4 seconds, nothing happens. Try to crank one more time just after - fires right off. When I was using PFC it was firing after 2-3 seconds of cranking. Compression is OK.

Recently I adjusted fast idle cam with the correct mark per FSM, so after that cold starts (60F) with 1400 rpm and it drop to idle rpm after warm up. After that I readjusted TPS to spec. Throttle stop screw (on top of TB) is not touching its rest after warm up. Idle speed (750-800 rpm) is set through AAS under TB (2-2,5 turns counter clockwise). Dashpot is also here and adjusted per FSM.
My thoughts are: maybe issues with driveability and idle referring to the way I adjusted idle. Throttle stop screw is not touching its rest, so primary throttle plate stays closed when there is no throttle and all air to support idle and compensate for electrical load comes from AAS and ISC valve. So maybe stock 8 bit ECU unlike PFC is not fast enough to react and send signals to ISC valve? So maybe I should set idle with throttle stop screw on top of TB and then fine tune it with AAS? Manual doesn't cover it clear.

I want to get Chuck's pfc notes but I don't have enough rating to contact Arghx, so if you read it pls contact me.
Sorry for mistakes. English is not my first language.

 

Here is Raymond's email: rjherche@gmail.com

On the group there is a new hardware/software package available that is years ahead of the old Datalogit which is now junk.
You will also get FC-Tweak to tune the map for fantastic driving control from the PFC. It edits parts of the PFC that the FC-Edit never touched.
Then there is a new ignition module that replaces the stock crappy Mazda igniter,

With these my single turbo drives like stock twins.

 

Thank you. I already have registered FC-Tweak, great app. But now I'm with stock ecu until I get WB to tune it properly.

 

its kind of tricky to get the throttle body right, its basically a carburetor without fuel, so there is a lot going on. its a lot of one step forward two steps back for a while too
just in general, for the Power FC

the AAS, should be turned in lightly all the way, and about 1/2 back out, stock ecu will want a different setting
with the engine warm the TPS should be adjusted, i think its 0.4v and 0.75v with the throttle closed, you can use the check screen. +/- 0.05 is fine
the PFC doesn't need the dashpot, but with the engine cold, you can adjust it so its just touching the throttle, i use a piece of paper and you'll feel it grab the paper
the thermo-wax screw by in the pic there adjusts the temperature where it operates, and since its easy to get to, its easy to fine tune in the car. it should click off about 65c, when the temp gauge is at the first mark, give or take
there is a second screw behind the TPS that adjusts how many rpm it does, throttle body needs to be taken off, so its not easy. i like to turn it down a tad, stock is 1600-1800, i like to be 1400-1500. up to you

and if your throttle hasn't been messed with, it should work. sometimes you'll need to use the FC Tweak to tune the idle, and then reset the thing, reload your map, and let it relearn with your map to get it right