OMP removal and limp mode
09-18-06, 06:44 PM
#1
OMP removal and limp mode
i was planning on assembling my new engine without the oil metering pump. i would block off the opening on the front cover and plug the holes in the rotor housings as usual. then it's tcw3 ftw.
the problem is that i'm planning on running the stock ecu and want to avoid putting the car in limp mode. i couldn't find any solid info about this in my searches.
the two solutions i can think of would be:
1. no omp, trick the ecu into thinking it is still operational
2. leave the OMP on the front cover, plug all fittings and plug holes in rotor housings.
#1 would be the cleanest method. any suggestions?
the problem is that i'm planning on running the stock ecu and want to avoid putting the car in limp mode. i couldn't find any solid info about this in my searches.
the two solutions i can think of would be:
1. no omp, trick the ecu into thinking it is still operational
2. leave the OMP on the front cover, plug all fittings and plug holes in rotor housings.
#1 would be the cleanest method. any suggestions?
09-19-06, 02:13 AM
#4
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hey mate i dont have an answer for you but im having troubles with my omp pump, see i fitted a plug in microtech and they dont controll the omp, but i want it to work,,,what do i do? but if i leave it not working what do i have to do so the car doesnt blow up,,run oil mixed with my fuel?
09-19-06, 07:59 AM
#5
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alexdimen,,, im not sure theres any way to trick the ECU into thinking the OMP is still there if you remove it ( the oil metering pump has a potentiometer and a stepping motor, im not sure any resistor could produce the correct that sort of feed back),,, so if u unplugg the OMP with a standard ECU u are gonna go into limp mode. Best thing to do would be to buy a apexi FC if you want to premix (can i ask honestly why would you want to remove the OMP it doesnt do a bad job and they are quite reliable,,, i think the other guy was mentioning upgraded lines because he like me beleives the only weakness is the brittle pipe lines that can split and **** your motor)
09-19-06, 08:04 AM
#6
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OWHAT,,, i beleive most people with the microtech remove the oil metering pump and block it off,,, then go to mixing oil in the tank,,, But for more info you might want to post in the microtech section (i beleive there is some guys on there that have come up with other methods to inject oil)
09-19-06, 02:50 PM
#7
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If you're still on the stock ECU, you don't have enough mods to warrant going premix. The stock oil metering system works quite well. If you'd like some extra insurance on top of the stock OMP, add a little premix on each tank.
The stock OMP lines work just fine - they will stay right where they should be and work until you try and disconnect them. When you go to remove them, they break most of the time. Big deal, they're CHEAP new, just replace them. I don't recommend the braided OMP lines - for the cost, you could buy MANY sets of stock OMP lines. Not to mention the steel braided lines will rub holes in everything it touches - wiring, fuel lines, pipes, you name it. You have to be EXTREMELY careful with the install to not have problems down the road. It's just not worth it.
IMHO, for a street car premix is foolish. Having gone on a roadtrip with 2 others running premix, trying to find a Wal-Mart at 2am in a foreign city to buy more premix is just retarded. There's an attitude that "stock sucks" and you need to "rip out all that crap". Mazda did a fine job on the OMP system for a street driven car - there's no good reason to fool with it. If the OMP is bad, good used ones are a dime a dozen. If you're serious about "removing all that crap", you need to save up for a proper ECU first.
Dale
The stock OMP lines work just fine - they will stay right where they should be and work until you try and disconnect them. When you go to remove them, they break most of the time. Big deal, they're CHEAP new, just replace them. I don't recommend the braided OMP lines - for the cost, you could buy MANY sets of stock OMP lines. Not to mention the steel braided lines will rub holes in everything it touches - wiring, fuel lines, pipes, you name it. You have to be EXTREMELY careful with the install to not have problems down the road. It's just not worth it.
IMHO, for a street car premix is foolish. Having gone on a roadtrip with 2 others running premix, trying to find a Wal-Mart at 2am in a foreign city to buy more premix is just retarded. There's an attitude that "stock sucks" and you need to "rip out all that crap". Mazda did a fine job on the OMP system for a street driven car - there's no good reason to fool with it. If the OMP is bad, good used ones are a dime a dozen. If you're serious about "removing all that crap", you need to save up for a proper ECU first.
Dale
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09-19-06, 09:42 PM
#8
yes, i'm hard-headed
first off, i really don't want this to turn into another pre-mix argument... please!
i know you have more experience than me, but i am of the opinion that pre-mixing (even on a street car) will increase engine longevity and reliability. i believe oil injection, while it works well enough for most, was a compromise mazda made for the sake of convenience.
that said, i'd like to try and do this, as trivial as it seems to some.
the car will not be a daily driver. i've been mixing on my n/a FC forever and am used to it, as silly as it is sometimes.
still not a definite answer, is it possible with a stock ecu or not?
btw dale, i bought your check valve set (4) but my metal check valve is not working either. have you ever used your viton ones in place of the metal one? it's plumbed into the same i.d. tubing.
Originally Posted by DaleClark
If you're still on the stock ECU, you don't have enough mods to warrant going premix.
that said, i'd like to try and do this, as trivial as it seems to some.
Originally Posted by DaleClark
Having gone on a roadtrip with 2 others running premix, trying to find a Wal-Mart at 2am in a foreign city to buy more premix is just retarded.
Originally Posted by DaleClark
If you're serious about "removing all that crap", you need to save up for a proper ECU first.
btw dale, i bought your check valve set (4) but my metal check valve is not working either. have you ever used your viton ones in place of the metal one? it's plumbed into the same i.d. tubing.
09-20-06, 01:57 PM
#11
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Originally Posted by alexdimen
thanks to all.
i guess i'll either mix a little bit on top of the OMP or get the rotary aviation adapter. it's a lot less expensive than i had imagined it would be.
i guess i'll either mix a little bit on top of the OMP or get the rotary aviation adapter. it's a lot less expensive than i had imagined it would be.
09-20-06, 03:04 PM
#12
Originally Posted by rynberg
You know, with the PFC+datalogit, you can adjust the amount of oil the OMP injects. It's even adjustable vs water temps. I have mine slightly raised and then even higher at high water temps.
i'll probably get a PFC after the car is back together.
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