Rx-7$4$me

I just cant seem to do it, all the screws regardless of how much pressure I put on them, and all the liquid wrench I get on em, WILL NOT BUDGE. wtf am I supposed to do ? I have to take out the CC solenoid.... argh. Anyone have pics or anything of which scerws I need to take out? also the two in the back how the hell do u get a screwdriver onto em?

someone help who has done this PLS!

Stevo

jspecracer7

Did you pull the coils? I got my rack out NO problemo.

SPOautos

Use a dremmel, just cut it out and go nonseq. Hell if you pull out the rack your almost done, all you have to do is pull the tca and T into the crv which taked about 45 minutes

STEPHEN

STEPHEN

jspecracer7

Did you go non-seq Stephen? I did a long time ago thanks to Rikki...LOVE IT!

mjw

iTrader: (1)

Vise grips my friend. Remove the coils first and clamp down on those suckers!

neevosh

Take a pair of pliers or vice-grips and turn the screw that way. Once you get it loose then you can use a screwdriver.

P'cola FD

Take a flathead screwdriver, and put it on the side of the screw. You want to aim diagonally at the head of the screw on the rounded side. This is hard to explain, but you basically want to take a hammer, and work the srcew out with the screwdriver until it's loose.you don't want to go from the top of the head, as if you were normally unscrewing it. Maybe a gimp little picture will help. This is the screw head "O" this is the screwdriver "/" hit it from the side /O at an angle like that. Tell me if you need to a better explanation.

Rx-7$4$me

god im so frustrated these ******* things are practically welded into my car, vice grips just slid off of it, I cant get any **** to work.. wTF DO I DO???

Rx-7$4$me

the coils are out, I cant even get the three in the front out. Maybe im just an idiot, I can take my whole ******* car apart. and I GET LIMITED BY ******* SCREWS!??????????????@!$!@%!#%T#@^T Im so frustrated right now, I want my car back

Bucrx7

Fronts ones should be a piece of cake, just put a lot of pressure on it or else you'll end up stripping it. For the rear get a VERY short phillips head and use it with a hole ratchet that will fit the screwdriver and use a lot of pressure also. If all else fail remove the whole assembly.

RonKMiller

Jesus H. Christ......what is all this **** cutting and hammering? Vise Grips, Dremmel tools! Take out the coils? ****, why not just pull the whole freakin' engine? Posers........

Go to Ace. buy a NEW #2 phillips head bit and insert it in a RATCHETING closed end box wrench of the appropriate size (you may need to buy a metric set but they are handy little bastards) and they pop right off. What you need to do is get the right size NEW bit and apply torque at a 90 degree angle to the fastener.

Don't forget to put a couple of towels on your fender since you'll be laying on your stomach to reach it.

Really easy to do - you'll have a flat forehead from slapping yourself!

Damn, do I have to show you guys how to do everything?

mjw

iTrader: (1)

Try the hammer trick that P'cola suggested.. if not just take a break and cool off. I know exactly how you feel, I had the same problem and it was pissing me off. I came back an hour later and just tried again, that is all you can do.

Matt

mjw

iTrader: (1)

Doh, my apologies for whoring.

SPOautos

Well actually not yet but I've pulled everything out more than once and also did the seq simplification listed on Robs site which I loved btw!!! I will prob be nonseq soon though as I'm getting some hybrids that will prob require non seq

BTW - when you do the simplification you ditch the rack and everything and just keep like 3 solenoids with a hardfull of vac lines. Its not really that hard and when I did it I just cut the damn rack out with my trusty dremmel which took all of 2 minutes to have the rack out lol

STEPHEN

JONSKI

EASY EASY KILLER!!! I can tell from experience that frustration will always lead broken parts and a lighter wallet. I'm not sure what you are doing, but I can tell you this:

IF YOU ARE TRYING TO REMOVE THE LITTLE PHILLIPS-HEAD SCREWS THAT HOLD THE SOLENOID RACK AND METAL TUBES TOGETHER THE WHOLE ASSEMBLY IS STILL IN THE CAR, THEN YOU ARE FRIGGIN INSANE.

Those screws are heat-bonded in place. I'm not superman, but I had the hole assembly stood upright on the bench putting my whole body into turning the screws and I could only get half of them without drilling!

Besides, IF YOU AREN'T DOING THE SIMPLIFICATION OR THE NON-SEQUENTION CONVERSION, THEN YOU SHOULDN'T EVEN NEED TO TAKE THE ASSEMBLY OUT.




By "the whole assembly", I mean this thing:

Rx-7$4$me

I have to replace the CC solenoid...... there are three in the front behind the alternator and 3 in the back correct? I cant seem to get these ******* out.. I dunno what to do.......

Rx-7$4$me

how do you remove the whole assembely?

duboisr

Do you know what a hand held impack screwdriver that you hit with a hammer is, they can be found at motor cycle shops, home depot, sears ect. they are not much money but they are worth millions of dollars when they will turn those screws with one good hit . Get one and you will never be with out one.These jobs are not that hard with the right tools. it took more time to post your distress than to get the screws out with right tool.Hope you find one quickly ,any auto parts place may have it , good skill, you do not need luck.

paw140

OK, here's my take on this.

I'm not sure what you're talking about here. My car had 90K on it when I did the job and I got the screws out, no problem. Most everyone else on the list who's done the hose job pulls the whole rack out. I don't see how you could get to all the hoses without pulling out the rack.

Now Ron knows what he's talking about. Go buy a #2 phillips head bit (the little 1/4" things that you'd put in a drill or one of those multi-use screwdrivers). Ron said to use a closed-end box wrench, but I just used a small 1/4" drive ratchet with a 1/4" socket. At this point you should have a ratchet with a socket and a #2 phillip's bit at the end of it. You should be able to get a lot of torque on the screws with this. MAKE SURE you put LOTS of down force on the screw head when you try to loosen it or you'll strip the head! I was able to get all 6 (4?) screws out this way, even the one's on the firewall side.

Good luck.

paw140

This will work for the front screws, but there's no way you'll be able to get at the back screws with an impact driver.

JONSKI

If you are just replacing a solenoid, then you don't need to take the whole assembly out (doesn't anyone know what that thing is called?). It will invlove taking some hoses off, though. The CC (Charge Control) solenoid is on the bottom rack and second one in from the alternator side, and I'm pretty sure it has a white plug. It's solenoid (F) in this diagram:
http://www.rpi.edu/~skrzyj/rx7/93vachosescolor.jpg.
If you haven't already, print out this diagram!

Just for future reference, to take the whole assembly out, there are five bolts. Three are right where the coil packs are (were), and two to hold down the oil filler neck. The rest is just coolant, fuel, and vacuum hoses. If you remove any fuel hoses, be sure to loosen your gas cap to help relieve the fuel pressure.

One more thing. How do you know that this solenoid is bad?

paw140

Wait a minute... Jonski, when you're talking about taking out the whole assembly, what exactly are you talking about? I'm talk about the rat's nest. There's like 4 or 6 (can't remember) phillips head screws that hold it in.

Oh wait, I just took another look at your pic. Did you pull that whole thing out to do vac hoses? Ugh, looks like some work.

You probably have to at least take out the rat's nest to replace the solenoid.

paw140

Jonski, do you go to RPI? I've actually been looking into transfering there.

Rx-7$4$me

my CC solenoid went snap when I bumped it on accident. so Im trying to get tehse damn screws out so I can replace it.

Stevo