I had the same problem with mine - after many hours of drilling, swearing, and getting p!ssed off, I decided to take more things apart. If you remove the ignition coils (4 bolts, it I remember) there are a few 10mm bolts that hold the entire selenoid rack assembly down to the engine. I was able to remove these and convince the entire thing to come out. Once the whole thing is out, it is much easier to work on.

BTW, if you do manage to get the screws out - go to Home Depot and buy some alan cap head screws and replace them. This makes it much easier to take it apart the next time.......

 

Ugh.....happens to the best of us. Don't forget to test them all and your check valves when you have it all apart. It's in the shop manual. You really only want to do this whole project one time.

(Just make sure you NEVER offer to help another rotorhead to do this job, they'll follow you around like a puppy for months afterward thinking you are God)

 

I'm not suggesting anything, but I'm just saying ... if you take the whole motor out to port it then the solenoid rack will come out with it. That's how I usually look at situations.

 

hell, if you pull the turbos off and replace them with one big one, you can just say "**** it" and throw the whole thing away! but im not suggesting anything...

 

Rikki is right, if you remove the coils 3-4 10mm nuts, there are 3 10-12mm bolts that have to be removed. Once these are done the metal piping that the solenoid rack is attached to moves upward and you can easily get the screws out without stripping them. This made my vacuum hose job and Fuel pulsation dampner so much easier. Good luck,

eric

 

I think I will do that, where are the bolts? anyone have pics? I mean it doesnt matter when I do it, cuz im waiting for a solenoid to come in so

Stevo

 

**** it go single, i'm suggesting something.

nah i just wanted to add a humerous comment, you guys are great, i love learning new stuff. copy, paste, email self on what may come up.

luigi

 

You will also need to disconnect the electrical connectors from the solenoids.

I labeled (in no specific order) the 5 bolts that you need to remove.

Before you remove the fuel lines, loosen your gas cap. Remove the three fuel lines on the bottom left one-by-one. I took little strips of masking tape and labeled them:
BR - Bottom Right
BL - Bottom Left
T - Top

If it hasn't yet bee done, you might as well replace your Fuel Pulsation Dampener (FPD).

The FPR is the Fuel Pressure Regulator and it is on the firewall end of the secondary injector rail.



You're gonna Pwn0rz that solenoid!

 

The solenoids slide out (pull them from and toward the driver side) by pushing with a screwdriver down on the clip that holds them in place from the passenger side. Remove the electrical connection first and you'll be able to see the plastic part that you need to push on downward - it is underneath the solenoid but it is accessible. Don't push to hard because it will break. Get someone to help by pulling the solenoid from the driver side while you use a flat head screwdriver to push on the clip from the passenger side.

That is how I got mine out because like you I couldn't get the rats nest out (5 screws) and I didn't want to remove all the fuel hoses and stuff to remove the whole assembly. My mechanic told me about the clip and I was able to remove them easily afterwards.

You can remove all of the solenoids this way. Some of them are harder to reach than others. Be patient or you'll break more stuff!

remember to use something to protect both of your fenders since you will be basically 'on' them if you want to see the clip. Use a flash light or mechanics light to get a better view of the clip.

Good luck.

Dennis

 

im working on getting the FPD and FPR lines off, but the pressure tank seems to be stuck on right next to the alternator... How do I Get that mf off???

 

To get that pressure tank off, there is a 10mm bolt on the front of the engine that needs to be removed. It's almost impossible to see (I used a mirror), but you should be able to feel it with your hand. After you remove that bolt, you'll also have to remove the metal bracket that the alternator bolts to to get clearance to pull out the pressure tank. At some point I also removed the engine hanger thing too, but I can't remember if its necessary to get the tank out.

 

any pics? also is it below the pully? how far down would u say it is?

 

well I almost have it off, gotta wait till tomorrow its too dark

 

Rx-7$4$me,

Your problem would have been fixed by now if you had listened to P'Cola_FD and mjw.

All you have to do is to use an old flathead screwdriver together with a hammer ... lightly tap the screw heads (the screw heads which by now should have jagged edges due to the vice grips) by placing the flathead screw-driver as per the crude diagram

O\

Each time you hammer away, the screwdriver will slip off, and this is normal. A couple of times and the screws will loosen completely. This will work on both sides of the rack where space is limited! Just make sure you're forcing/pushing the screw heads in the correct direction (anti-clockwise). It is so simple once you get it.

 

I got it out already im just waiting for a solenoid now