Oil Temps. What is the optimal oil temp/ location of sender?
Oil Temps. What is the optimal oil temp/ location of sender?
So when I had my dual oil cooler setup I was getting insanely cool temps, cool enough to make me wonder if it was too cool... I was running my own custom dual oil cooler which consisted of the stock FD oil cooler in series with the stock FC oil cooler. My oil sender is tapped in to an oil pedestal.
So on average my temps look like
135 degree highway cruising
140-150 city cruising
150-165 traffic
(these are from what i remember, i took the FC oil cooler off about 2-3 weeks ago and dont drive the 7 often anymore)
but even at DGRR on it through the dragon i didnt see past 165...........
So my question is what is the optimal oil temp without being too cold? also what is the most ideal temp sensor location? IIRC i was talking to Adam at DGRR and he said that the temp of the oil going in isnt as important as the oil coming out? so the temp gauge should be reading the oil temp coming out of the motor? Im debating weather or not to reinstall the FC oil cooler in series with the stock oil cooler or just removing it completely and using the FC cooler...
So on average my temps look like
135 degree highway cruising
140-150 city cruising
150-165 traffic
(these are from what i remember, i took the FC oil cooler off about 2-3 weeks ago and dont drive the 7 often anymore)
but even at DGRR on it through the dragon i didnt see past 165...........
So my question is what is the optimal oil temp without being too cold? also what is the most ideal temp sensor location? IIRC i was talking to Adam at DGRR and he said that the temp of the oil going in isnt as important as the oil coming out? so the temp gauge should be reading the oil temp coming out of the motor? Im debating weather or not to reinstall the FC oil cooler in series with the stock oil cooler or just removing it completely and using the FC cooler...
Refering to an old post of mine:
A later update from mazda Motorsport was "FD Oil Temperature should never exceed 210F."
Again please note all these temps are measured in the Oil Pan.
below table direct from MMSD
This data follows more the older 12A /13b N/a engines. My 12A runs about 190 with mobil 1 was about 210 with dino oil.
My Fd R2 runs 160 to 195 with refurbished oil coolers and M1 oil. I mounted my gauge to show 220 at needle up, refering to upper end of non concern range but as I rarely see above 190 I would be concerned that something is not right if I got a 220 reading, like I am dumped my oil on the road/ hell the pressure gauge is always telling me that so it is worthless. As to the oil, It is one hell of a lot hotter in the bearings that it is lubing. The key is to have enough to carry the heat away, and heat it above water boiling to keep the water out .. the low pan temps in the Fd concern me more that the lack of high temps.
No temp sensor position will tell you the peak temp in the oil Inlet temp tells you taht your coolers are working and you have oil, well dah! outlet temp can not be measured, so then we get to the pan. a combo of oil temp cooled by windage, but before oil cooler cooling and discharged hot oil. Advantage of pan temp over inlet temp is that a sudden extreme raise in temp means that something in engine right then is not right, whereas measureing at filter before entering engine has a huge time delay in what makes the oil hot.
RECOMMENDED TEMPERATURE, PRESSURE & COMPRESSION
BREAK-IN RANGE NORMAL RANGE MAXIMUM LIMIT
Coolant Temperature
(Outlet Side) 160° - 175° F 160° - 195° F 205° F
Oil Temperature
(Oil Pan) 160° - 175° F 195° - 230° F 250° F
This data follows more the older 12A /13b N/a engines. My 12A runs about 190 with mobil 1 was about 210 with dino oil.
My Fd R2 runs 160 to 195 with refurbished oil coolers and M1 oil. I mounted my gauge to show 220 at needle up, refering to upper end of non concern range but as I rarely see above 190 I would be concerned that something is not right if I got a 220 reading, like I am dumped my oil on the road/ hell the pressure gauge is always telling me that so it is worthless. As to the oil, It is one hell of a lot hotter in the bearings that it is lubing. The key is to have enough to carry the heat away, and heat it above water boiling to keep the water out .. the low pan temps in the Fd concern me more that the lack of high temps.
No temp sensor position will tell you the peak temp in the oil Inlet temp tells you taht your coolers are working and you have oil, well dah! outlet temp can not be measured, so then we get to the pan. a combo of oil temp cooled by windage, but before oil cooler cooling and discharged hot oil. Advantage of pan temp over inlet temp is that a sudden extreme raise in temp means that something in engine right then is not right, whereas measureing at filter before entering engine has a huge time delay in what makes the oil hot.
RECOMMENDED TEMPERATURE, PRESSURE & COMPRESSION
BREAK-IN RANGE NORMAL RANGE MAXIMUM LIMIT
Coolant Temperature
(Outlet Side) 160° - 175° F 160° - 195° F 205° F
Oil Temperature
(Oil Pan) 160° - 175° F 195° - 230° F 250° F
Again please note all these temps are measured in the Oil Pan.
I have my oil temp sender in the oil pan drain plug. There is no easier install than this. You can buy one here for about $10
http://www.egauges.com/vdo_indS.asp?...VDO&PN=323-055
so the temps mazda recommends is reffering to oil pan temp?
adam c that is awesome! i might have to pick that up or maybe ill just tap my oil pan since the sender is on the dr side of the engine...
adam c that is awesome! i might have to pick that up or maybe ill just tap my oil pan since the sender is on the dr side of the engine...
With an oem single oil cooler, my oil temps are normally about 20 degrees warmer than coolant temps.
I dont know why you would tap your oil pan when you can use a sender that will attach to the drain plug hole.
I dont know why you would tap your oil pan when you can use a sender that will attach to the drain plug hole.
thermostat is definitely installed in the stock fd oil cooler. i bought the fc oil cooler used and never took out the thermostat so i would think it is still in there.
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http://www.corksport.com/corksport-r...anjo-bolt.html
I picked one of these up for cheap. Would this be a good location for the install, or should I get one for the oil pan?
I picked one of these up for cheap. Would this be a good location for the install, or should I get one for the oil pan?
I think you need to inspect the thermostats before you go any further. There must be something wrong with either the way you have it setup or with the system components.
A minimum of about 200 F once up to operating temp.. Oil is pretty happy around 220 F. You want the op temp of the oil to be high enough to readily boil off condensate that finds its way into the oil.
This is oil temp in the pan. Of course the temp is well above boiling in the engine passages. pan temp is a mix of hottest oil out of engine and reserve air cooled oil. If you are getting more than 210 pan temps you need to look into alternatives. On the older engines oil pulled about 2/3rd of the heat out of the engine, I am not sure of ratio on the FD’s but regardless the oil is important and temps in turbo bearings will be extremely high. My temps rarely climb to the 210 mark when under load. Twin OEM coolers, heat emission coated Fluidyne radiator … Texas heat
