I have been watching a oil leak for a while now. I believe it is coming from the oil pan or at least the screws on the oil pan. It looks like the RTV (that's what I believe it's called) as come off.

Can someone explain this process for me. It's my first time so idk what I'm doing.


Tags: oil, leak, rx7, help, problem, pan, repare, replace, RTV, sealant, process

 

Try tighten up the nuts. Might just be loose. Check the manual for torque specs. If its already tight then you're going to need to pull the pan off and replace the gasket and bolt it back up. Some people dont use the gasket and just use high temp RTV.

Might get more help if you posted in the 1st gen section.

 

You can check torque on the bolts, but it's not likely to help. And don't over-torque. All you'll do is strip the hole or warp the pan.
Oil pan leaks are a common complaint on these cars. The "sandwich" design of the engine and having the motor mounts bolted on top of it contribute. Re-sealing it with the engine in the car is possible, but just alot of work, usually involving dropping the front cross-member.

Regardless, the key to getting a good seal is having the mating surfaces VERY clean and free of any oil residue, a quality, proven gasket maker and IMO a pan brace.

---> https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...ealing-739232/

 

Pull the pan, clean both surfaces until they are 100% clean, and use the right stuff gasket maker (the Right Stuff® - Permatex). Torque everything down to factory specs. Wait 48 hours before adding oil back in.

If you pan looks beat up or bent, buy a new one since you don't want to do this twice. Also, if there's a oil pan brace for your stup (doesn't look like an FD pan), get that too.

 

do what they said, but also buy THIS.

This process isn't very difficult and not too much can go wrong so if you're new to this, i think it's a great place to start

 

12A & GSL-SE oil pan braces 79-85 RX-7 Banzai Products

 

early engines rarely have issues with oil pan sealing, it is likely your OMP or OMP lines leaking and running to the back of the engine since it is sloped.

the proper way of checking it is to degrease the underside of the engine and run the engine up to operating temp then check to see where the leak actually is originating from versus wasting time resealing parts that aren't leaking.

additionally, wrong section.

 

my bad guys i really thought i posted in 1st gen.

 

what product should i use to degrease the engine? or does soap work just fine? i think i have some brake cleaner, im not sure but i think i heard some people useing that stuff too.

 

normally i just use a rag and my hand, just be sure it is clean enough to trace any leaks.

 

Ok thanks. I'll get on that.

 

I swear by this engine cleaner: Engine Cleaner, 35 Ounces - Griot's Garage

 

I use brake cleaner or...since I buy it by the gallon, fast dry enamel reducer. On a rag. Make sure you get any old sealant out of the bolt holes.

 

How would I fix any bolt holes that are stripped?

 

Run a thread cleaner into the holes, chances are they are not stripped to the bottom, since the factory bolts are very short.

You can then either install longer bolts, which will also strip out the holes if you over torque or.....
You can install our oil pan brace stud kit, which we do sell seperately for people not installing our brace.

If it is completely stripped, drill and tap.

Stud kit below oil pan brace GSL-SE Oil Pan Brace