im planning on changing my oil pan gasket this weekend...just wondering if there was a way to do it without hoisting the motor...possibly by using a jack on the bottom of the motor to raise it enough to pull and re install the pan....is there any suitable points where i can place the jack to raise it up enough...any help would be great...i mean i can get a hoist if reallly needed to but id rather not if its unnessicary

 

Yep, you can put a jack directly under the tranny (I would recommend using a piece of wood between the two). The only problem with that is that you don't have a lot of room to manuever while underneath the car. But it's definately doable.

-Rob

 

an option you have re the project is to not use an oilpan gasket.

i haven't used an oil pan gasket for a couple of years and have had my motor apart 4 times during that period. i have had absolutely no oil leaks. clean both mating surfaces with brake clean and use silicone clear adhesive. ( don't use an excessive amount). i suggest letting the silicone set for 30-45 minutes. don't forget to clean the motor mount bolts and silicone an inch of the threads as they are in communication w the crankcase oil.

good luck,

howard coleman

 

I'm in agreement with Howard on this one. Although, I would personally recommend either Permatex Ultra Grey, or Honda Bond (available at your local Honda dealer). I have used both of these on several different engines and never had a problem.

-Rob

 

i have already gotten some permatex ultra blue im guessin its the same thing....so ur really against gaskets huh...hmmmm maybe ill take ur advice and not use one if there hasnt been a problem....another qs should i smooth the silicone out with my finger to make sure that it gets the whole surface or just use a bead and then let the torque of the bolts do the rest...any help is great....project is for sunday cant wait....will puttin silicone on the motor mount bolts help seal any leaks that might be comin from the motor mounts..??

thanks guys u are great

matt

 

Use Permatex's "The Right Stuff" instead of RTV or silicone. This stuff seals, and can take the heat.

We use this on Mercedes inline 6-cylinders that have a chronic oil-leak due to high oil-pressures on the front cover.

No more leaks!

:-) neil

 

You can support the motor from the top and remove the subframe bolts but leave the suspension attached. Then with a pry bar pull down on the subframe and slide short (8 - 10 in) pieces of 2x4 between the rear subframe mounts and the body. This will give you enough clearance to get the pan out.

Make sure that you check the oil pan to see that it's flat. Often times it will bend a lip down when trying to pry it loose. I usually lay it upside down on a board to check, and use a rubber mallet to flatten any bent areas.

Do not over tighten the 10mm bolts. They will break off and you will have to pull the oil pan back off to extract it. You may even want to replace them with new?

 

i recommend you apply the silicone adhesive with your finger rather than laying a bead. by doing this you will stand a better chance of applying the correct amount and covering all parts of the surface. apply the adhesive to both the block and pan surfaces.... not too much, and let it set for 30 minutes.


the previous post is excellent advice as to not tightening the bolts too much. it is easy to twist off a pan bolt. if you have the time, after installing the pan bolts, retighten them a bit a couple of hours later.

good luck,

howard coleman