JP's 93 fd

iTrader: (28)

I just wanted to know what needs to come off when replacing oil metering pump LINES. Do I have to take out the rats nest. I've replaced all my vacuum hoses before but I didn't really pay attention how accessable the omp lines are. From what i remember the water pump and housing has to come off. Please don't tell me I have to take off the lower intake manifold to get to the lines. any info and pics would be appreciated.

http://www.autosportracetech.com/RX-7/oilsystem.htm

telum01

depending on how old the lines are, they might be pretty hard and brittle. if that's the case, they'll be a pain to get out due to their routing and that they won't be flexible. however, if you're planning to replace them you can just cut the lines as you are able to access them and pull them out in pieces. just be careful not to cut anything else. depending on what material you're using (i made my own, cost about $20 and worked great), your new ones might be flexible enough to route however you'd like, so you won't have to remove everything from on top of the block. however, if i remember correctly, you might need to remove the rat's nest to get to the injectors.

and no, you don't have to take off the LIM.

goz

where did u get the kit to replace these lines could be a good project since mines a 92 fd and could prob do with replaceing.thanks for any help

telum01

my apologies to the original poster, but i copy/pasted this to another forum, and now it's coming back onto this one. sorry for not citing the original author!

i found this thread in the 2nd gen section somehow clicky but figured i'd make a post in here, since i did mine for an FD. this is basically a quick write-up to let others know that there is an alternative to spending $100 on oil metering lines.

basically, i wanted to replace my oil metering lines, and was planning to get braided stainless steel lines. but as the expenses of building my FD are piling up, i'm trying to find ways to maximize the use of my money. i bought the materials to do this from McMaster-Carr (i've bought a number of things through them, they're a pretty good company). my order consisted of 5 ft of Teflon FEP tubing (part# 52355K12) and a bag of stainless steel double-pinch clamps (part# 54105K34), and my grand total, including taxes and shipping, came to less than $21. i somehow managed to get my order the next day, which was a nice surprise. the Teflon tubing is rated up to 400F, so it should stand the heat very well. it's also pretty durable. while i was trying to get one of the banjo fittings into an end of the tube, i accidentally bent the tubing over. i was happy to find that it didn't stay pinched where it bent, and there was no white "bend mark," either. also, in the description of the tubing, it says they are white/semi clear, but in person they are more clear than i expected. i used a cutting wheel on my Dremel to cut through the pinch clamps on the OEM lines to get the banjo fittings then used them on the new lines. just be careful not to buzz the fitting while you're cutting the clamp.

i cut one length of tubing to about 25" and the other to about 35" and that should give me some breathing room as far as length is concerned. be careful as you try to push the banjo fitting into the tubing, it's really tough to get in and you might mess up the tubing if you push too hard. i dabbed a touch of spit onto the banjo fitting to lube it up a touch (that sounds dirtier than it's supposed to) when i did the third and fourth fittings and it seemed to help. make sure you put the pinch clamps onto the tubing before you put the second banjo fitting on! if you don't, you've got to do some backtracking. i used a set of channel locks to pinch the clamps down and they worked just fine, so you don't really need any special tools.

all in all this project from start to finish took me about 50 minutes (pulling the banjo fittings out of the old lines and then make the new lines), which is definitely worth the $80 savings in my opinion. i'd post some pics of the finished product, but i'm currently camera-less. but there's really nothing to see, they're just clear lines with banjo fittings at each end.

Sgtblue

iTrader: (16)

Replacing the lines with braided stainless is popular. They're are available from a variety of vendors for ~$100.

katit

iTrader: (1)

I did the same and it works. New ones from Ray $60 for pair. I went further and shaped lines like OE ones using heatgun. This line is very easy to work with and it takes shape nicely. Just don't overheat it so it melts. Spent 30 minutes total. I figured I don't make $80/hr and it's my hobby - so it's a good deal

telum01

that's the same reason i did it. the only reason to get stainless steel lines is for protection of the lines. but when you makes them yourself, you get clear lines that you can actually see the oil through, and it only costs about $20. all i did was wrap a little bit of electrical tape around the lines on the sections that came into close contact with other parts. that way they're protected in case they rub against something, but the majority of the lines are still clear so you can make sure there's oil passing through. the extra $80 is really hard to justify for those of us that don't make a ton of money.

JP's 93 fd

iTrader: (28)

great info! is the teflon tubing that you posted the same diameter as the stock omp lines. also when you do get a camera, can you post some pics of the finish product.

telum01

the inner diameter is the same, or extremely close, to the stock lines. the teflon tubing fits onto the stock hardware. not my pic, came from the original thread: